Day 1107 – BPAL’s Murder for Murder, Blood for Blood

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Scent Name: Murder for Murder, Blood for Blood

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – American Gods III

 

Scent Description and Notes: ““So. I got to say it, because nobody else here will. We are at the center of this place: a land that has no time for gods, and here at the center it has less time for us than anywhere. It is a no-man’s-land, a place of truce, and we observe our truces, here. We have no choice. So. You give us the body of our friend. We accept it. You will pay for this, murder for murder, blood for blood.”

Black oudh, patchouli, opoponax, black pepper, and blackened cacao.” – https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/neil-gaiman/american-gods/murder-for-murder-blood-for-blood/

Oil Color: Orange on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard BPAL brown apothecary bottle.  The label wrapped around the bottle features the name of the scent in bold, yellow letters along the bottom of the bottle, just above the smaller white block font of the company name.  The name of the collection is in even smaller white block font along the top of the label. The label art is as follows:

  • ITB:  Oh, darkly earthy and brooding is this one.  The patchouli is the first identifiable note once I unscrew the cap.  It’s the wet, very dark patchouli that sets of the opoponax, oudh, and pepper so nicely as the other notes lend a sweet, resinous spiciness that keep the patchouli from being too intense.  The cacao note treads along the borders of the scent, drifting in and out of detection.
  • Wet:  Wow, I wasn’t expecting the sweet, woodsy aspects of oudh to suddenly jump to the forefront, but it does so aggressively, momentarily causing me to pull my wrist away from my nose. Along with the oudh is the cacao, which adds even more to the sweetness of the note.  As it starts to settle, the patchouli once again comes into focus, as does the opoponax, but I’m missing the delightful spiciness of the pepper note.  Perhaps Beth was intentionally alluding to the adage:  “revenge is sweet.”
  • Dry:  There’s that deep, earthy patchouli.  It’s not the most dominant note on my skin, flanked by a sweet, almost musky oudh, opoponax, and hints of cocoa.  Sadly, no pepper.  It’s definitely a dark and brooding scent that I think might age rather nicely.

Other Impressions: “I was hoping that faint turd smell was power of suggestion, but nope. Yeah, it’s like hard candy and poop.”-Tony

Caveat:  My husband thinks earthy patchouli smells like poop. He’s had that reaction to a few other dark patchouli notes.

 

 

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Day 1106 – BPAL’s These Shabby Days

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Scent Name: These Shabby Days

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – American Gods III

Scent Description and Notes: ““…Our kind of people, we are…” He waved the cigarillo about, as if using it to hunt for a word, then stabbing forward with it. “…exclusive. We’re not social. Not even me. Not even Bacchus. Not for long. We walk by ourselves or we stay in our own little groups. We do not play well with others. We like to be adored and respected and worshiped—me, I like them to be tellin’ tales about me, tales showing my cleverness. It’s a fault, I know, but it’s the way I am. We like to be big. Now, in these shabby days, we are small. The new gods rise and fall and rise again. But this is not a country that tolerates gods for long. Brahma creates, Vishnu preserves, Shiva destroys, and the ground is clear for Brahma to create once more.”

Memories of myrrh and gold, and the dying smoke of a snuffed cigarillo. -https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/neil-gaiman/american-gods/these-shabby-days/

Oil Color: The color of flowing embers on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard BPAL brown apothecary bottle.  The label wrapped around the bottle features the name of the scent in bold, yellow letters along the bottom of the bottle, just above the smaller white block font of the company name.  The name of the collection is in even smaller white block font along the top of the label. The label art is as follows:

  • ITB:  Sweet tobacco smoke and myrrh spill forth as the bottle is uncapped, followed  by a cool gold tang that weaves between the cigarillo and myrrh.
  • Wet:  The gold comes across as a bit more tangy and cool, almost like there’s an aquatic base to the note.  Soon after, the myrrh and cigarillo notes languidly skulk forth.  I wish the gold were not so apparent on my skin as I do love myrrh and tobacco.  It just is a little “off” on my skin.
  • Dry: Ah, there we go, much better now that it’s had some time to settle.  After a few hours, the myrrh and cigarillo smoke linger lightly on my skin.  The gold?  No where to be found.

Other Impressions: None.

Day 1105 – BPAL’s The Forgettable God

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Scent Name: The Forgettable God

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – American Gods III

Scent Description and Notes: “He had stood beside the man as he got into the car, had opened and closed the door for him, and was unable to remember anything about him. He turned around in the driver’s seat and looked at him, carefully noting his face, his hair, his clothes, making certain he would know him if he met him again, and turned back to start the car, to find that the man had slipped from his mind. An impression of wealth was left behind, but nothing more.

A faint impression of scent, a memory slipping like water through a sieve. -https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/product-category/neil-gaiman/american-gods/

Oil Color: Clear.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard BPAL brown apothecary bottle.  The label wrapped around the bottle features the name of the scent in bold, yellow letters along the bottom of the bottle, just above the smaller white block font of the company name.  The name of the collection is in even smaller white block font along the top of the label. The label art is as follows:

  • ITB:  It’s always a challenge when the notes are intentionally vague, so what you see here is subjective and based on my own note memories. What I go get slips under my nose, shifting from a very nondescript “clean and cool” scent like soapy water and baby powder to notes that I think I can almost tease out – blue musk, a faint fougere, fresh linen, the memory of vanilla or skin musk long faded.
  • Wet:  Yes, there’s definitely a fougere in here along with linen or crisp, clean sheets, soapiness, a pinch of musk, and a floral (which might be from the fougere) that strikes me as imperious, so perhaps wisteria.  Every now and then, if I inhale deeply enough, vanilla waivers on the threshold of recognition.  It’s almost hotel-level clean.
  • Dry: It’s more soapy with just a touch of fougere way in the background.  It’s a definite “clean” scent, but it is almost clinical in its cleanliness.

Other Impressions: “Do you want the nice or the genuine version? This one also smells like powder, but it’s the cleanest version of restroom automated powder spray scent and Irish Spring.” -Tony

Day 1104 – BPAL’s Les Fleurs du Mal

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cent Name: Les Fleurs du Mal

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Ars Moriendi

Scent Description and Notes: “The scents of the blossoms of darkness, condensed into one perfume. Features a rose base, softened with lilac and wisteria. -https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/ars-moriendi/les-fleurs-du-mal/

Oil Color: The color of apricot nectar.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz).  The label wrapped around the bottle features an Art-Deco inspired phoenix with the name of the company next to the phoenix. On the other side, the title of the scent written in large, clear black font outlined with red on the front.

Scent:

  • ITI: Soft, pink rose petals wafts forth, while wisteria blooms around it, adding a touch of almost floral musk to the rose.  In the center is the wisteria, which comes across as clean and elegant.  As a floral, I’d say this scent is elegant, demure, and beautiful.
  • Wet:  The wisteria becomes the dominant note on my skin, which still has that undertone of floral musk and a touch of powder  The rose is a bit more subdued, and unfortunately, a touch more soapy for me. The lilac emerges just a few seconds later and overtakes the other notes.  I’m hoping that these notes settle down as it dries.
  • Dry: After 10 hours and my cat licking off the perfume, what’s left is a subtle, soft floral. After re-testing, the lilac is soft and gentle while the rose drifts in the background, augmented by a touch of creamy muskiness. This is a much nicer scent once allowed to settle.
Other Impressions: “It’s powdery and kind of amber-y, but I’m having trouble picking out any single note.  It’s pleasant though.  I like it.” -Tony

Day 1103 – Ava Luxe’s Pivoine Rose

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Scent Name: Pivoine Rose

Manufacturer: Ava Luxe Fine Fragrances

Scent Description and Notes: “Radiant Chinese peony blossoms are blended with notes of lush Bulgarian rose, May rose and sensual musks. A deliciously sparkling fragrance.

Notes: Chinese peony, Pink peony, Bulgarian rose absolute, May rose, Sensual musks, orris

Fragrance family
FLORAL” – http://www.ava-luxe.com/site/pages/scentindex/pivoine.html

Oil Color: Clear.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard imp size with a black top and tester stick.  The label  features The name of the scent in bold situated horizontally across the front of the imp.  Below that is the non-bolded phrase “perfume oil.”  The back of the label features two Deco iris while the front of the label displays the name of the company, the website in smaller font, and an image of an Art Deco woman on what looks like a lily pad.

Scent:

  • ITI: I was anticipating rose being the foremost note, but instead, peony blossoms unfurl, revealing a lovely, sweet Bulgarian rose note in the center of the scent, while languid musk lingers along the bottom elements of the scent.
  • Wet: The rose and peony vie for attention, yet there is a lovely dewiness about the floral notes that gives the scent a delicateness that I really appreciate.  The musk once again emerges after a minute, but it’s gentle and subdued under the elegant floral notes.
  • Dry: I’m honestly surprised by the longevity of this scent.  Nearly 18 hours from application, I can still detect rose, peony, and musk.  While the intensity is much reduced, the quality of each note is discernible and detectable enough to have a 1″ throw even now.

Other Impressions: None.

Day 1102 – Haus of Gloi’s Spider Silk

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Scent Name: Spider Silk

Manufacturer: Haus of Gloi – Halloween

Scent Description and Notes: “Procured from a dream: delicate water mint, wispy grey musk, crystalline webs of amber, oakmoss, torchwood, copaiba resin, and a touch of withered violet leaf. ” – https://www.hausofgloi.com/pages/halloween-scent-list

Oil Color: The color of diluted champagne.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard imp size with a clear top and tester stick.  The label  features what almost looks like spider camo around the edges and tab sticking out from the back.  The scent information includes the scent name in the center, above which is the company, below which are the phrases “Perfume Oil” and “5ml/Cruelty free” in decreasing font size. The name of the scent is in creepy Halloween font and is bracketed above and below by an Italic spacer and small pumpkins.

Scent:

  • ITI: It’s an interesting progression of notes that reminds me of fog rolling through a cemetery before dawn, the spider webs glistening with crystalline dew. I notice the mint first, followed swiftly by the oakmoss, gentle curls of torchwood smoke and  amber bloom just before the haunting note of the withered violet leaf emerges.  Definitely evocative of the season!
  • Wet: The amber tries to push past the other notes, but the watery mint, musk, and oakmoss restrain it while the violet leaf lingers in the background, keeping the scent both deliciously gloomy and hauntingly beautiful.
  • Dry: Oh, what a treat when dried!  The amber, musk, and copaiba resin linger close to the skin.  What was once haunting now is warm and inviting.

Other Impressions: “It’s like rosemary and woodsy…like sandalwood with a tiny hint of menthol.” -Tony

 

Day 1101 – BPAL’s Eclipses Be

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Scent Name: Eclipses Be

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – The Great American Eclipse

Scent Description and Notes: “

Eclipses be – predicted –
And Science bows them in –
But do one face us suddenly –
Jehovah’s watch – is wrong.
– Emily Dickinson

Rose amber, carnation, and clove. –https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/limited-edition/the-great-american-eclipse/songs-of-midday-darkness/eclipses-be/

Oil Color: A slightly rose-tinged amber distillation.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz).  This is a sample from Crown & Tulip, which features the bottle image on the  front and  the name, logo, and website of the company on back.  The label art that would be on the bottle features the name of the scent in  shadowed yellow block font, which is situated above the company name, which is in lower case bolded font in a black border along the bottom edge.  The image itself, individuals looking at an eclipse in what looks to be London, is framed by another black border that contains the lower case name of the collection.

  • ITI: The carnation and clove are bright and spicy as the scent emerges from the bottle, followed by the rose, sweetening the spiciness while the amber seems to act as an intermediary to add a delightful soft resinousness to the scent as a whole.
  • Wet: The clove moves more to the forefront, followed by the carnation.  The amber is soft and almost creamy behind the two spicy notes.  The rose emerges last but blooms around the other notes, adding a touch of femininity to the scent as a whole. It reminds me of cinnamon bears and rose candy.
  • Dry: After 12 hours, my skin eats up nearly everything  save for the faint impression of aged rose.  I do wish it lasted longer, but I loved every stage of this blend.

Other Impressions: None.

Day 1100 – BPAL’s All Ruinous Disorders

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Scent Name: All Ruinous Disorders

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – The Great American Eclipse

Scent Description and Notes: “These late eclipses in the sun and moon portend no good to us. Though the wisdom of nature can reason it thus and thus, yet nature finds itself scourged by the sequent effects. Love cools, friendship falls off, brothers divide, in cities mutinies, in countries discord, in palaces treason, and the bond cracked ’twixt son and father. This villain of mine comes under the prediction—there’s son against father. The king falls from bias of nature—there’s father against child. We have seen the best of our time. Machinations, hollowness, treachery, and all ruinous disorders follow us disquietly to our graves. Find out this villain, Edmund. It shall lose thee nothing. Do it carefully.—And the noble and true-hearted Kent banished, his offense honesty! ‘Tis strange, strange.
– William Shakespeare, King Lear

Amber, bergamot, and honeyed saffron blackened by smoked oudh, patchouli, ti leaf, scorched thistle, leather, and yew. – https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/limited-edition/the-great-american-eclipse/songs-of-midday-darkness/all-ruinous-disorders/

Oil Color: The color of straw in autumn.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz).  This is a sample from Crown & Tulip, which features the bottle image on the  front and  the name, logo, and website of the company on back.  The label art that would be on the bottle features the name of the scent in  shadowed yellow block font, which is situated above the company name, which is in lower case bolded font in a black border along the bottom edge.  The image itself, individuals looking at an eclipse in what looks to be London, is framed by another black border that contains the lower case name of the collection.

  • ITI: Lovely ti leaf, yew, thistle and bergamot create something akin to lavender with more depth and more resinous tones underneath from the oudh. There’s a hint of leather underneath it all, but it’s incredibly subtle.
  • Wet: The yew, ti leaf, and thistle are stronger on my skin – more distinct. There’s now a slightly bitter herbal quality to the scent that the smoked oudh and bergamot try to tame, but cannot completely.  There’s a subtle hint of patchouli and very faint leather that emerge as the amber note peaks its head out from underneath the herbal dominant notes.  It reminds me of a cottage in the woods with dried herbs hanging from the ceiling – just before dawn when the fire has burned itself out.
  • Dry: Now that the scent has had a couple of hours (and a brisk walk) to settle, it smells like a soft floral tones flanked by honey, amber, and bergamot with slight sandalwood and ti leaf undertones.

Other Impressions: “Like violets and leather?” -Tony

Day 1099 – BPAL’s Disastrous Twilight

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Scent Name: Disastrous Twilight

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – The Great American Eclipse

Scent Description and Notes: “As when the Sun, new risen,
Looks through the horizontal misty air,
Shorn of his beams, or from behind the Moon,
In dim eclipse, disastrous twilight sheds
On half the nations and with fear of change
Perplexes monarchs.
– John Milton, Paradise Lost

Star-touched blue amber, gurjum balsam, pale orris, Somalian myrrh, benzoin, red sandalwood, and ylang ylang. – https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/limited-edition/the-great-american-eclipse/songs-of-midday-darkness/disastrous-twilight/

Oil Color: The color of watered down apricot brandy.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz).  This is a sample from Crown & Tulip, which features the bottle image on the  front and  the name, logo, and website of the company on back.  The label art that would be on the bottle features the name of the scent in  shadowed yellow block font, which is situated above the company name, which is in lower case bolded font in a black border along the bottom edge.  The image itself, individuals looking at an eclipse in what looks to be London, is framed by another black border that contains the lower case name of the collection.

  • ITI: The first thought was insects in the forest.  The ylang ylang  to me has that buggy tone to it (but it always does, which is why I don’t reach for scents with that note in it), but the notes that sweep in after (amber, orris, and balsam) remind me of a LUSH store.
  • Wet: It’s ylang ylang once again as the initial note followed by the blue amber (which has an early twilight feel to it), and a sweet woodsiness, which I think might be the gurjum balsam with a touch of sandalwood, myrrh, benzoin and orris just behind it.  The LUSH similarities are still strong here (and still a bit too strong).  I’m sure it will be improved once settled.
  • Dry: The floral notes are much softer and more in balance with the amber, gurjum, orris, and sandalwood.  I do wish the myrrh were more detectable, but I do like the resinous shift this scent has taken.

Other Impressions: None.

Day 1098 – BPAL’s The Drunk Astronomer

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Scent Name: The Drunk Astronomer

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – The Great American Eclipse

Scent Description and Notes: “Credit for some of the first recorded accounts of eclipses are attributed to the legendary Drunk Astronomers, Ho and Hsi, circa 2137 BCE. Ho and Hsi were royal astronomers in the court of Chung K’ang. They were in charge of predicting the celestial dance – all movements of the Heavenly Bodies. They were also reprobates, and spent a fair amount of their time in debauch, drinking and carousing. In a drunken stupor – though they knew an eclipse was imminent – they failed to notify the emperor of the event, and they failed to perform the sacred rites that would prevent the celestial dragon from consuming the mighty sun. They were summarily decapitated for creating chaos and confusion in the celestial chain by leaving their duties unperformed.

Here lie the bodies of Ho and Hsi,
Whose fate, though sad, is risible;
Being slain because they could not spy
The eclipse which was invisible.

Jasmine tea, blood musk, and pale yellow amber. –https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/limited-edition/the-great-american-eclipse/the-drunk-astronomers/

Oil Color: Highlighter yellow on my skin, but the color of brandy in the imp.

Bottle Design and Artwork: his is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz).  This is a sample from Crown & Tulip, which features the bottle image on the  front and  the name, logo, and website of the company on back.  The label art that would be on the bottle features the name of the scent in  shadowed yellow block font, which is situated above the company name, which is in lower case bolded font in a black border along the bottom edge.  The image itself, individuals looking at an eclipse in what looks to be London, is framed by another black border that contains the lower case name of the collection.

  • ITI: Jasmine for me is often a note that too closely mirrors old air fresheners, but the combination of tea diminishes some of that overt artificiality. The amber is lovely and sweetly comforting under the jasmine tea.  The blood musk is rather faint and just adds a gentle softness to the scent.
  • Wet: On my skin, the tea aspect is a touch stronger and the blood musk finally swells to recognition.  The amber seems to take a step back, but it takes most of the artificiality of the jasmine with it.  As a whole, the scent evokes  memories of bakes apples and tea.
  • Verdict so far:  For a person who generally doesn’t like jasmine, this is a rather enjoyable scent.
  • Dry: Dry, it’s sweetly soft amber with a touch of floral tea and ruddy musk.  This is definitely a scent that’s worth the dry down.

Other Impressions: “It’s a little flowery, but it isn’t bad.  It quickly fades away and I have to re-smell it. I’d just be careful of wearing too much.” -Tony

Day 1097 – BPAL’s The Thales Eclipse

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Scent Name: The Thales Eclipse

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – The Great American Eclipse

Scent Description and Notes: “In the sixth year a battle took place in which it happened, when the fight had begun, that suddenly the day became night. And this change of the day Thales the Milesian had foretold to the Ionians laying down as a limit this very year in which the change took place. The Lydians however and the Medes, when they saw that it had become night instead of day, ceased from their fighting and were much more eager both of them that peace should be made between them.
– Herodotus, on a prediction of by Thales of Miletus

Red amber and leather, patchouli, champaca flower, frankincense, oudh, castoreum accord, and black musk. –https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/limited-edition/the-great-american-eclipse/the-thales-eclipse/

Oil Color: The color of apple cider vinegar.

Bottle Design and Artwork: his is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz).  This is a sample from Crown & Tulip, which features the bottle image on the  frontand  the name, logo, and website of the company on back.  The label art that would be on the bottle features the name of the scent in  shadowed yellow block font, which is situated above the company name, which is in lower case bolded font in a black border along the bottom edge.  The image itself, individuals looking at an eclipse in what looks to be London, is framed by another black border that contains the lower case name of the collection.

  • ITI: Hmm, dark, smokey leather speckled with masculine pitch, castoreum, and  some really earthy, dirty patchouli.
  • Wet: The patchouli is much dirtier on my skin while the castoreum and leather are a touch too animalistic.  It’s just a bit…woodsey…right now.
  • Dry: Even when dry, the scent as a whole is just too much like woodland animal excrement.  I had to wash the scent off, and only then did the amber come though.  A little too late, though.

Other Impressions: “It kinda smells like doodoo.  It’s like doodoo in a room with lots of potpourri.” -Tony

Day 1096 – BPAL’s In Hideous Darkness

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Scent Name: In Hideous Darkness

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – The Great American Eclipse

Scent Description and Notes: “The elements manifested their sorrow at this great man’s departure from England. For the Sun on that day at the 6th hour shrouded his glorious face, as the poets say, in hideous darkness, agitating the hearts of men by an eclipse; and on the 6th day of the week early in the morning there was so great an earthquake that the ground appeared absolutely to sink down; an horrid noise being first heard beneath the surface.
– Historia Novella, William of Malmesbury on the death of Henry I

Golden amber and ambergris, sage and white cedar, rockrose, bourbon tobacco, and vetiver. – https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/limited-edition/the-great-american-eclipse/in-hideous-darkness/

Oil Color: Clear on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard BPAL brown apothecary bottle.  The label wrapped around the bottle features the name of the scent in  shadowed yellow block font, which is situated above the company name, which is in lower case bolded font in a black border along the bottom edge.  The image itself, individuals looking at an eclipse in what looks to be London, is framed by another black border that contains the lower case name of the collection.

  • ITI:  I was expecting to smell heavy-handed vetiver, but instead, the smokiness is immediately tamed by the rockrose, lovely ambergris, and bourbon vanilla, which adds a slight floral sharpness that keeps the more smokey notes from being too overbearing.
  • Wet: The bourbon vanilla is stronger and a touch boozier on my skin, but the sage now comes though along with the golden amber to make the scent almost nostalgic.  The vetiver twins itself between top and middle notes, but it’s skill kept at bay by ambergris and rockrose, both now a touch more demure.
  • Dry: After a full 12 hours, the scent lingers close to the skin, a gentle dusting of soft amber, tobacco, and just a hint of sage.  Very nice!

Other Impressions: None.

Day 1095 – BPAL’s Nothing Is Unexpected Nothing Is Forsworn

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Scent Name: Nothing is Unexpected Nothing Is Forsworn

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – The Great American Eclipse

Scent Description and Notes: “Nothing is unexpected, nothing is foresworn and
Nothing amazes now that father Zeus the Olympian
veiled the light to make it night at midday
even as sun was shining: so dread fear has overtaken men.
From this time on everything that men believe
will be doubted: may none of us who see this be surprised
when we see forest beasts taking turns in the salted field
with dolphins, when the echoing waves of the sea become
Dearer to them than the sand, and the dolphins love the wooded glen
– Archilochus

Red amber and heady red wine, benzoin, ash, and bourbon vanilla. – https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/limited-edition/the-great-american-eclipse/nothing-is-unexpected-nothing-is-foresworn/

Oil Color: Slightly golden, like apple juice, on my arm.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard BPAL brown apothecary bottle.  The label wrapped around the bottle features the name of the scent in  shadowed yellow block font, which is situated above the company name, which is in lower case bolded font in a black border along the bottom edge.  The image itself, individuals looking at an eclipse in what looks to be London, is framed by another black border that contains the lower case name of the collection.

  • ITI:  Very heady red wine with traces of sour apple and ashed benzoin residue. I’m generally not a red wine note lover, so be forewarned that this review will be more biased than I’d like.
  • Wet: Ok, I may have written too soon.  On my skin, the red wine is much less sour and heady than it is mulled holiday red.  I do get more of the benzoin and red amber, which softens the wine considerably.  Sadly, no bourbon vanilla notes yet.  Still, this isn’t bad.  Cue shock.
  • Dry:  The mulled spices and red wine really come across nicely. There’s bits of benzoin and amber that make this seem more like a Christmas scent than anything else.  I actually like it, surprisingly.

Other Impressions: “I don’t know what kind of flower, but I get flower, a little clove, and is that myrrh? It smells like a Catholic grandma convention.” -Tony

Day 1094 – BPAL’s Mabel

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Scent Name: Mabel

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – The Great American Eclipse

Scent Description and Notes: “Mabel Loomis Todd is probably best known as the first editor of Emily Dickinson’s poetry and editor of publications of Dickinson’s posthumous works. She was also a fearless and experienced adventuress, eclipse chaser and astronomer, and trekked over the globe locating unobscured sites to witness solar eclipses. She published Total Eclipses of the Sun in 1894, a list of past and future total solar eclipses, and recorded her experiences in her travels through painting and journals.

Rose-tinted amber, golden chypre, ambergris, tobacco leaf, and clove. –  https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/limited-edition/the-great-american-eclipse/mabel/

Oil Color: Golden oil on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard BPAL brown apothecary bottle.  The label wrapped around the bottle features the name of the scent in  shadowed yellow block font, which is situated above the company name, which is in lower case bolded font in a black border along the bottom edge.  The image itself, individuals looking at an eclipse in what looks to be London, is framed by another black border that contains the lower case name of the collection.

  • ITI:  This smells absolutely amazing in the bottle, like fall – crushed leaves, golden sunlight, mulling spices, and dried rose petals. I want to have my entire house suffused with this scent.
  • Wet: The rose, amber, and clove are intoxicating and dominant, swirling around the more gentle notes of tobacco and ambergris that huddle just underneath.  The chypre, which is normally a combination of citrus, labdanum, and mossy notes, definitely contains  and a touches of smoky moss deliciousness, but it is overtly more golden than the traditional scent family.
  • Dry:  The rose amber and ambergris settle just above the golden chypre, while the tobacco and clove settle underneath, creating less of a heath/autumnal scent, and something much more seductively resinous.  Clearly, a half bottle will not be enough.

Other Impressions: “Oh, what are you wearing.  You smell goooood!” -Tony

Dat 1093 – BPAL’s Black Silk

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Scent Name: Black Silk

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Retail Exclusive: Pretty Indulgent

Scent Description and Notes: “A throaty laugh, a sinuous whisper: blackened sandalwood and bourbon vanilla cream with gleaming Haitian patchouli, animalic ambergris accord, immortelle absolute, white benzoin, and a drop of tobacco absolute. –  https://www.prettyindulgent.com/products/black-silk-perfume

 

Oil Color: Clear on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard BPAL brown apothecary bottle.  The label wrapped around the bottle features the name of the scent in in black Gothic font outlined in blue.  It sits above the company name, which is written in smaller font along the bottom of the label.  The co-company’s name is similar in shape and form to BPAL’s, but is placed along the top.  The label art features a woman in mourning attire with what looks like an elaborate silk hat, set against late autumnal trees.

  • ITI:  At first sniff, I thought I detected sugared violets, but I think that might actually be the immortelle with some of the vanilla cream.  If I concentrate, I can tease out a little of the bourbon  and a touch of the tobacco absolute.
  • Wet: Ah, now the patchouli waltzes in and takes the immortelle and bourbon vanilla cream on a whirling escapade through tobacco-laden saloons and benzoin perfumed dance floors.  I don’t get the ambergris, unfortunately, but it’s still a nice scent so far.
  • Dry:  I don’t know how many times I’ve reapplied this, but the scent is left with just a touch of  powdery vanilla cream and the memory of ambergris in the very distant past.

Other Impressions: None.

Day 1092 – BPAL s Alternative Facts

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Scent Name: Alternative Facts

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Limited Edition

Scent Description and Notes: “The truth hurts — so why tell it? Muffle the blow with Alternative Facts.

For example:

FACT: Following White House advisor Kellyanne Conway’s January 22 appearance on “Meet The Press,” sales of George Orwell’s 1984 skyrocketed, making it the fifth-best selling book on Amazon.com.

ALTERNATIVE FACT: In under a week, President Trump’s administration has already managed to improve literacy, reflecting the public’s renewed interest in privatized education, as well as its rejection of the mainstream media in favor of more “traditional” forms of information-gathering.

See how easy that is? With the help of Alternative Facts, even the most unpalatable among us can preside over a gallery of glittering, candy-coated delusions — one in which reality itself conforms to our beliefs, sincerely-held or otherwise.

ALTERNATIVE FACTS: If you truly want to obfuscate what you really smell like, this is the scent for you! Sugar-crusted vanilla, a firecracker-blast of cherry and sour lemon, a hint of scuttling spiders, encroaching fog, and trumpets of bombast, bluff, and bluster.” –  https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/limited-edition/alternative-facts/

 

Oil Color: Clear on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard BPAL brown apothecary bottle.  The label wrapped around the bottle features the name of the scent in  thicker block font just above the name of the company, which is in a much smaller version of the scent.  The image itself looks like a clip-art version of Abbott and Costello reading a newspaper.

 

  • ITI:  Strong, sticky cherry cough syrup jumps forth, followed upon concentration with a hint of musky vanilla and sugar congealed underneath.  I’m not really picking up lemon, which I think this scent needs to keep it from being entirely too sweet.
  • Wet: The cheery is still mainly cough syrup, but now it shifts back and forth to clear maraschino cherries.  As the scent settles seconds after application the lemon flicks forth like a serpent’s tongue just under the now lighter sugared vanilla note.
  • Dry:  After 12 hours, all that remains is the very subtlest ting of sticky sweet cherry  and a touch of vanilla.  I like it much better dried after several hours than I do wet or in the bottle.  Too sweet!

Other Impressions: None.

Day 1091 – BPAL’s Fake News

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Scent Name: Fake News

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Limited Edition

Scent Description and Notes: “2016 turned out to be the year of the NASTY WOMAN — and thanks to your purchases, BPAL was able to donate thousands of dollars to Planned Parenthood and Emily’s List!

Unfortunately, 2017 is already shaping up to be the year of FAKE NEWS. In anticipation of the upcoming inaugural proceedings — and the months, nay years of high-volume dishonesty that are to follow — we offer the following blend to help penetrate the dense fog of of misinformation that’s already begun settling around Truth, Justice, and other historically celebrated American ideals.

Wear it in vigilance as you sift through the memes, trolls, clickbait, hate-speech, and outright propaganda that continually threaten to overwhelm all the world’s kindness, wisdom, and informed expertise. Wear it in courage as you refute ignorance and insincerity at every turn — even from our nation’s highest-ranking figures — with indisputable facts from well-researched sources.

And try not to lose your sense of humor as you fight back, or your own essential humanity. As Anne Lamott once wrote: “You don’t always have to chop with the sword of truth. You can point with it too.” 

FAKE NEWS: A scent of misdirection, of 140 frantic characters typed out in spite at 3am, and paranoia-butted churlish accusations hurled at perceived enemies: crushed pink pepper pod, bitter white tobacco, gnarled patchouli, all covered in glinting, garish slashes of gold. –  https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/limited-edition/fake-news/

Oil Color:  The color of mashed strawberry juice on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard BPAL brown apothecary bottle.  The label wrapped around the bottle features the name of the scent in newsprint-like font with the name of the company in slightly smaller font just below it along the bottom of the bottle.  The image is of a stylized Twitter bird with three daggers through it.

 

  • ITI:  Delicious, resinously rich patchouli with streaks of gold, a gentle waft of tobacco, and enough pink pepper to make the nose tingle.  I like it!
  • Wet:  It still maintains everything that I enjoyed while in the bottle even on my skin.  It smells rich, expensive, and powerfully feminine with the white tobacco and gold notes.
  • Dry:  After 5 hours, the scent dissipates quite a bit.  I’m left with a gentle hint of the resinous patchouli and a touch of golden tobacco.

Other Impressions: For those who are weary of patchouli, try this scent.  I dislike earthy patchouli notes as they tend to make a scent smell to soil-like for me.  This patchouli is glorious, feminine, and well-balanced.

Day 1090 – BPAL’s Lily Witch

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Scent Name: Lily Witch

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – 

Scent Description and Notes: “Lilith named this scent, and said this perfume should smell like witches. Her interpretation is swathed in anise, lime, almond, and witchin’ herbs, and holds a bouquet of pale, graceful lilies. The end result is a sweet, nutty absinthe’d lime with a hint of spice and leather. – https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/in-memoriam/liliths/lilith-2014-princesses-ghosts-superheroes/lily-witch/

Oil Color:  Slightly yellow on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: his is a standard BPAL brown apothecary bottle.  The label wrapped around the bottle features the name of the scent in bold, pale lavender font at the top of the image.  At the bottom of the image is the collection date in very small plum font just above the company name, wich is in a slightly larger purpled grey font. The label art is as follows:

  • ITI:  It smells like lime marzipan with a touch of seasonal spices like cardamom and all spice.  I’m not a fan of marzipan at all.
  • Wet:  The lime is much stronger on my skin (thank goodness!), followed by marzipan mingled with anise.  Below the surface, notes of leather, something effervescent, and slightly spicy brew.
  • Dry: It’s so much better dried.  Now, I get lime, soft anise, a gentle dusting of spice, and actual almond slivers rather than the dreaded marzipan.

Other Impressions: The throw on this scent is pretty good and the intensity of the wet version of the scent lasted for about 3 hours before finally settling down.

Day 1089 – BPAL’s Zorya Polunochnaya

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This is a scent that I’ve been contemplating since the release of the collection.  I’m partial to resinous woods, but the combination of notes in this scent were just too lovely sounding to pass up trying out.

Scent Name: Zorya Polunochnaya

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – American Gods I

Scent Description and Notes: “Her hair was pale and colorless in the moon’s thin light. She wore a white cotton nightgown, with a high lace neck and a hem that swept the ground. Shadow sat up, entirely awake. “You are Zorya Polu . . . ,” he hesitated. “The sister who was asleep.”

“I am Zorya Polunochnaya, yes. And you are called Shadow, yes? That was what Zorya Vechernyaya told me, when I woke.”

“Yes. What were you looking at, out there?”

She looked at him, then she beckoned him to join her by the window. She turned her back while he pulled on his jeans. He walked over to her. It seemed a long walk, for such a small room.

He could not tell her age. Her skin was unlined, her eyes were dark, her lashes were long, her hair was to her waist and white. The moonlight drained colors into ghosts of themselves. She was taller than either of her sisters.

She pointed up into the night sky. “I was looking at that,” she said, pointing to the Big Dipper. “See?”

“Ursa Major,” he said. “The Great Bear.”

“That is one way of looking at it,” she said. “But it is not the way from where I come from. I am going to sit on the roof. Would you like to come with me?”

Pale amber and ambergris, gossamer vanilla, moonflower, and white tobacco petals. – https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/neil-gaiman/american-gods/zorya-polunochnaya/

Oil Color: Clear

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard BPAL brown apothecary bottle.  The label wrapped around the bottle features the name of the scent in bold, yellow letters along the bottom of the bottle, just above the smaller white block font of the company name.  The name of the collection is in even smaller white block font along the top of the label. The label art is as follows:

  • ITB:  When I sniff from the bottle, the white tobacco flowers are the most evident now, although something pale and almost wistfully delicate plays along the upper registers just behind and sometimes in front of the tobacco petals.  The more I try to tease out notes, the more the notes slip out of detection, jumping from nothingness to moonlight breeze.
  • Wet:  Yum – cool vanilla, almost like fantastic true vanilla ice cream is paired beautifully with the moonflower, tobacco petals, and pale amber.  I’m not picking up the ambergris, but what is present is lovely.
  • Dry: It’s like gossamer wings gently brushing my skin – gauzy vanilla dances delightfully with moonflower, very light amber, and just the faintest hint of tobacco and ambergris.  It’s at once warm and inviting as it is ethereal and delicately feminine.

Other Impressions: If you are debating trying this scent at all – don’t.  It’s simply gorgeous!

Day 1091 – BPAL’s Covfefe

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Scent Name: Covfefe

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Limited Edition

Scent Description and Notes: “Is it abstract nonsense poetry? Surrealist performance art? Cryptography so subtle and devious that it would make an Enigma machine blush? The verbal component of whatever spell that orb casts? Safe word? A typo fueled by cheap hooch, NoDoz, and poor impulse control? Is negative press covfefe anything like French press covfefe?

This perfume makes no fucking sense: orange marshmallow cream, bitter lemon, black pepper, orange carnation, and gin.” -https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/limited-edition/covfefe/

Oil Color: A faint orange wash on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: his is a standard BPAL brown apothecary bottle.  The label wrapped around the bottle features the name of the scent in bold, black  letters set just above the name of the company along the bottom of the label, which is in a smaller version of the font.  The image is of a Twitter bird with 3 swords through it.

  • ITI:  At first, it smells like an orange cream-sickle followed by popcorn Jellybelly jelly beans and pepper.  While it sounds like a discordant blend, it actually isn’t too bad as one note seems to slide seamlessly into the next.
  • Wet:  The pepper and gin notes are clearer once applied, but they still exist on the same plane as the orange marshmallow cream note.  The carnation is there, but it’s buried under the other notes that push it out of the way, just like Trump did with the prime minister of Montenegro.
  • Dry: Soft, dry orange cream notes with bits of lemon zest, a spritz of gin, and the memory of pepper adorn my skin now that the scent is dry.  I certainly enjoy it much more now that it’s hand a change to dry down.

Other Impressions: “Wow, that makes…no sense.  I suppose that’s the point.  It smells almost like it has apple in it. It’s not sweet apple, but not sour apple either. I’m starting to smell a lot more orange as it dries.” -Kelly