Day 1415 – BPAL’s Kinda Sorta Snake Oil Cream Soda

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Scent Name:  Kinda Sorta Snake Oil Cream Soda

Manufacturer:  Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Halloweenie 2018

Scent Description and Notes: “We’re running out of room at the Lab, and it’s been a long, long time since we’ve had a trunk show. When Brian and I were rifling through the prototype and snafu shelves a few weeks ago, we dug up two busticated Snake Oils – one that was a mispour of Lemon Scented Sticky Bat, and another involved an Aggravated Vanilla Incident – and we unearthed the very first Samhain prototype from 2002.” -https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/in-memoriam/halloween/halloween-2018/kinda-sorta-snake-oil-cream-soda/

Oil Color: A thin marmalade colored oil.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a 5ml standard brown apothecary bottle.  The label extends just under halfway around the bottom.  The label features the name of the company in thick white block font along the bottom.  The name of the scent is as if on a post-it note in black block handwritten font across a larger apothecary bottle. Image art is as follows:

Scent:

  • ITB:  I’m surprised by how spicy this smells.  I’m certainly getting Snake Oil with it’s sugared Indonesian Oils and a vanilla cream, but there’s something in here that smells like cassia or a very toned-down cinnamon note with undertones of sarsaparilla.
  • Wet: Indonesian oils, thick and exotic, sugared over with thick pastry vanilla and sarsaparilla toe the line of foodiness for me, but I’m not bothered by it.
  • Dry: Talk about longevity!  After 14 hours, I am still able to detect faintly exotic pastry vanilla with a cream soda finish, like an effervescent memory.

Other Impressions: “It smells like strawberry buttercream.” -Tony

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Day 1414 – BPAL’s F#@K

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Scent Name:  F#@K

Manufacturer:  Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab –  Comic Book League Defense Fund Event Exclusive: Obscenities, Expletives, and Curses

Scent Description and Notes: “A censored scent, reminiscent of sugar crust with a hint of cherry meringue.” -BPAL.org

Oil Color: Colorless on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a 5ml standard brown apothecary bottle.  The label extends just under halfway around the bottom.  The label features the name of the company in thick white block font along the bottom, mirroring the name of the collection along the top.  The name of the scent is done in a larger white version centered against a black background.

Scent:

  • ITB:  Hmm, I’m not sure about this one.  It smells like cherry cough syrup over very light pastry far off in the distance.  The cherry note strikes me as rather artificial and cloying.
  • Wet: I’m still getting heavy cherry cough syrup, but it skews a bit more like cherry Twizzlers atop freshly baked meringues. It’s a bit too foody for me.
  • Dry: Artificial cherry and baked sugar-sweetened crust pastry. That’s a swap for me.

Other Impressions: “I can smell, um, leather, a lot alcohol like bourbon-y.” -Brad with a head cold.

“It smells like those high bouncy balls you bought from those vending machines when you bit them open.” -Tony

Day 1413 – BPAL’s SH%T

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Scent Name:  SH%T

Manufacturer:  Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab –  Comic Book League Defense Fund Event Exclusive: Obscenities, Expletives, and Curses

Scent Description and Notes: “Cacao and vetiver.” -https://cbldf.myshopify.com/products/bpal-sh-t

Oil Color: A colorless oil on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a 5ml standard brown apothecary bottle.  The label extends just under halfway around the bottom.  The label features the name of the company in thick white block font along the bottom, mirroring the name of the collection along the top.  The name of the scent is done in a larger white version centered against a black background.

Scent:

  • ITB: Heavy, dark cacao infused with smokey vetiver.  It reminds me of an 90% smoked dark chocolate. I love the stuff, so I am actually pleased with this darkly bitter chocolate note.
  • Wet: Thick, dark chocolate peppered with peanuts and vetiver.  It honestly smells delicious and I’m not much of a foody when it comes to scents. The throw on this one is impressive to say the least.
  • Dry: The vetiver definitely becomes stronger as it dries, but I’m still getting heavy, dark chocolate, which I like with the vetiver.

Other Impressions: “Okay, I can tell from here it’s chocolate (Tony, 4 feet away) and also coffee! That’s all I’m getting: chocolate and coffee.  I like it, it’s really nice. I don’t know if I’d want to smell like that, but it reminds me of a boudoir scent. I’m surprised it doesn’t smell like p-oudh since it’s called SH%T.” -Tony

Day 1412 – BPAL’s Scholar’s Tower

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This is the aged version from the original Kickstarter in 2014.

Scent Name:  Scholar’s Tower

Manufacturer:  Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab –  Retail Exclusive: Century Guild Kickstarter – Imagined Realms

Scent Description and Notes: “‘Amina and Shula took in stray books and stray cats and filled their home with both. They loved their feline charges as much as their studies, though the former often demanded more attention than the latter.

Together, the two scholars charted the paths of comets, discovered and named new stars, and debated the size and shape of the observable skies. They loved their study of the heavens, but they also strove to keep their inner world full and happy. Some days, all they needed was a sunny spot in their tower to enjoy a few books and a pot of tea together with their horde of cats.’ 

SCHOLAR’S TOWER

Gleaming amber spheres, polished cedar and mahogany, sweet parchment, inks of frankincense ash, and soft plumes of incense.

Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab has created SCHOLARS’ TOWER to commemorate “Imagined Realms”, the first in a series of books of fantasy art by award winning artist Julie Dillon.

Julie Dillon has been working with Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab for many years, doing labels for several series, most notably the Phoenix Steamworks collection, the Vampires Don’t Sleep Alone Collection,  the RPG series, and upcoming re-release of Carnival Diabolique.” -https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/collaborations/scholars-tower/

Oil Color: A maraschino cherry colored oil.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a 5ml standard brown apothecary bottle.  The label extends just under halfway around the bottom.  The label features the name of the company in thin yellow block font outlined in black along the bottom.  The scent name is in beautiful larger golden scroll work above that. The name of the artist is in a slightly larger version of the same font as the company name along the top.   The name of the scent is done in a larger white version along the top.  The image art is as follows:

Scent:

  • ITB:  Wood lovers, rejoice!  The mahogany here is stately, refine, and polished. Contemplative incense smolders in the background, infusing its golden tones into the marrow of the cedar, frankincense ash, and ink.
  • Wet: Wow, that’s gorgeous.  Strong frankincense and wafting incense against luxuriously polished mahogany and cedar with golden gleaming amber lighting the way. The cedar adds a bit of woody astringency to the background, but not enough to detract from the beautify of the more forward notes. Ink is very subtle in the background as a whole.  I want to live in this scent!
  • Dry: An hour dry-down yields a golden amber and polished mahogany delight steeped with frankincense ash with a hint of parchment and ink.  Yum! The only downside is that the throw is pretty limited after only an hour.

Other Impressions: “It’s like an acai-flavored pipe tobacco.” -Tony

Day 1411 – BPAL’s Transcendent Luxury

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Scent Name:  Transcendent Luxury

Manufacturer:  Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab –  Retail Exclusive: Century Guild Kickstarter – Flowering Lines

Scent Description and Notes: “A lavish white amber chypre with lemon verbena, opulent white gardenia, tuberose, and tonka.” -BPAL.org

Oil Color: A cherry yellow oil on my hand.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a 5ml standard brown apothecary bottle.  The label extends just under halfway around the bottom.  The label features the name of the company in thin very Art Deco orange along the bottom.  The name of the scent is done in a larger white version along the top.  The image art is as follows:

Scent:

  • ITB:  Watery white gardenia, well-mannered lemon verbena, with a subtle undertone of tuberose drifting lazily by. I’m not getting much amber, but I am picking up very light tones of green from the chypre.  It reminds me of reading a novel near an overhanging garden, listening to the river babbling in the distance.
  • Wet: Beautiful gardenia and lemon verbena laced with delicate tuberose absolutely sing on the skin. There’s a subtle warmth far beneath the white florals, perhaps from the amber, but the gardenia and lemon verbena are clearly the stars at this point. Gorgeous and invigorating.
  • Dry: After 8 hours, the scent has shed much of its watery white tones and melded into its gorgeous amber chypre laced with tonka and a speckle of tuberose. It’s lovely!

Other Impressions: “Wow, that is citrusy!” -Tony

Day 1410 – BPAL’s Infernal Creatures

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Scent Name:  Infernal Creatures

Manufacturer:  Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab –  Retail Exclusive: Century Guild Kickstarter – Infernal Creatures

Scent Description and Notes: “A viscous splash of red musk, opium smoke, calla lilies, black orchids, clove husk, and brimstone.” -BPAL.org

Oil Color: A thin mandarin oil.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a 5ml standard brown apothecary bottle.  The label extends just under halfway around the bottom.  The label features the name of the company in thin very pale blue font that feels a little run together.  The name of the collection is just above that in more generous spacing, done up in a beautiful sky blue.  The image art is as follows:

Scent:

  • ITB:  Opium smoke curls its tendrils around black orchid, which withers slightly under the sooty brimstone.  I’m trying to find the clove husk or the musk, and other than maybe an outline of the musk, but I’m not having much luck.
  • Wet: Oh, that’s much stronger.  Red musk, brimstone, and clove burst forth in a cloud of opium smoke. The florals linger just under the flurry of infernal notes, like a smoke bomb before the appearance of a devastatingly handsome creature.
  • Dry: I’m surprised at how quickly this settles down. While the clove husk, brimstone, and musk are still forward, it’s no longer an aggressive cloud, but a mellow low-lying fog atop which the opium and florals lazily waft. Feminine, beautiful, and infernal.

Other Impressions: “It’s a little powdery and flowery.  It’s a general nice, pleasant floweriness.” -Tony

Day 1409 – BPAL’s Ritualcravt House Blend

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Scent Name:  Ritualcravt House Blend

Manufacturer:  Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab –  Retail Exclusive: Ritualcravt

Scent Description and Notes: “Hekate, Hekate; Dark Mother Walk with Me.

Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab x Ritualcravt house perfume has arrived.

RITUALCRAVT is a complex perfume devoted to Hekate, our shop’s matron deity. Formulated and poured by cult-favourite perfumer Black Pheonix Alchemy Lab, this oil is genderless, earthy, and addictive.

Notes of plants sacred to Her include: black patchouli, teakwood, white sandalwood, saffron crocus, tobacco leaf, aconite accord, ambrette seed, musk seed, Dittany of Crete, and yew. ” -https://ritualcravt.com/product/ritualcravt-hekates-garden-perfume-black-phoenix-alchemy-lab/

Aconite accord is from monkshood.  It’s supposedly smells faintly floral, but I haven’t ever had the opportunity to smell it myself.

Dittany of Crete is an aromatic that is thyme or oregano-like but much more medicinal in smell.

Oil Color: A dilute golden orange on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a 5ml standard brown apothecary bottle.  The label extends just under halfway around the bottom.  The label features the name of the collaborating store, Rituacravt, positioned along the top in am underlined, thin New Age font in white.  The name of the scent is in a smaller but thicker and more Bookman Antique-like font toward the bottom of the image.  The image art is as follows:

Scent:

  • ITB:  Yum!  That sweet patchouli note is just so decadent and sublime, especially next to the ambrette seed, which brings out a beautiful golden, warm tone to the scent before waves of warm saffron, musk, tobacco, and yew lap tumble over it.  Wow.
  • Wet: Sweet, rich patchouli and ambrette seed are just brilliant together next to the saffron crocus. As the scent sits, the tobacco and sandalwood atop delicious musk, a faint floral, and wild herbal tone bloom, lending the scent an alluring warmth while emphasizing the dangerously feminine and foreboding edge of the scent as a whole.
  • Dry: 12 hours later, the scent is very close to the skin, but the sweetened ambrette patchouli with traces of tobacco, and a non-distinct wood still linger, ghosts on my skin.

Other Impressions: “It’s like pep-myrrh-mint” – Tony

Day 1408 – BPAL’s Hekate’s Garden

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Now that I’ve finished reviewing all my Laces, I think it’s time to finish off all my retail exclusives before returning to limited editions.

Scent Name:  Hekate’s Garden

Manufacturer:  Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab –  Retail Exclusive: Ritualcravt

Scent Description and Notes: “Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab x Ritualcravt Hekate’s Garden exclusive Perfume. The second in our collection of perfume’s formulated and poured by BPAL.

Hekate’s Garden is a complex perfume inspired by Ritualcravt owner Missy Rhysing’s notable devotional garden filled with black flowering and black foliaged plants, rarities, and plants historically associated with the goddess Hekate. This oil is a nod to our first BPAL perfume Ritualcravt with a similar genderless, earthy, and addictive quality- but with a brighter, greener finish.

Notes of plants sacred to Her include: honeyed patchouli root, tobacco absolute, saffron crocus, teakwood, and burnt cypress. ” -https://ritualcravt.com/product/ritualcravt-hekates-garden-perfume-black-phoenix-alchemy-lab/

Oil Color: Colorless on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a 5ml standard brown apothecary bottle.  The label extends just under halfway around the bottom.  The label features the name of the collaborating store, Rituacravt, positioned along the top in am underlined, thin New Age font in white.  The name of the scent is in a smaller but thicker and more Bookman Antique-like font toward the bottom of the image.  The image art is as follows:

Scent:

  • ITB:  Richly loamy and darkly woody. The patchouli root clearly is a honeyed version, bright and luminous, which I detect before warm tobacco and saffron crocus, black foliage, and a beautifully clear mingling of cypress and teakwood.
  • Wet: It’s pretty true to form once applied to skin.  Those honeyed patchouli and saffron crocus notes are just stunning.  This does speak to a dark garden, alluring yet mysteriously dangerous.
  • Dry: After 8 hours, I’m left with a soft honeyed patchouli against cypress and the memory of dark foliage.  It’s lovely!

Other Impressions: “I’m not sure what it is, but it smells like it would make a great library.” -Tony

Day 1407 – BPAL’s Solstice Lace

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Scent Name:  Solstice Lace

Manufacturer:  Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab –  Retail Exclusive: Dark Delicacies

Scent Description and Notes: “Bonfire smoke staining vanilla cream lace, a touch of cognac, sweet tobacco, St. Johns Wort, and apple wine, with the suns bright amber and copal setting the horizon aflame.” -BPAL.org

Oil Color: Colorless on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a 5ml standard brown apothecary bottle.  The label extends just under halfway around the bottom.  The label features the name of the company along the bottom in a bleached bone block shadowed script, mirroring the name of the collaborating store, Dark Delicacies, positioned along the top.  The name of the scent is in a larger version of the same font also shadowed just above the company name.  The image art is as follows:

Scent:

  • ITB:  It’s more fruity than I would have anticipated.  The apple wine is very clear and crisp, especially in relief against the tobacco and faint tallowed cream note, which might be a combination of the vanilla cream and the bonfire note.
  • Wet: Yes, that apple fine is glorious even on the skin. The smoke and tobacco notes follow after, while the apple wine just sings as the top note. I can detect subtle cognac with a hint of smoked vanilla cream lace and tobacco. Therese a glimmer of resin under neath, all of which speak of an Autumn bonfire.
  • Dry: Now that it’s had 4 hours to dry, the dominance of the apple wine has given way to thick billows of copal smoke and sweet tobacco with the heavy smoldering ones of bonfire next to the apple wine and a touch of ancient vanilla cream. Nice.

Other Impressions: “Did somebody rub a carrot cake on a leather couch?” -Tony

Day 1406 – BPAL’s Shadow Lace

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Scent Name:  Shadow Lace

Manufacturer:  Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab –  Retail Exclusive: Dark Delicacies

Scent Description and Notes: “Dusky plum oudh casts a pall over frayed strands of green cognac and tobacco leaf. This tangle of threads is stained with a smear of patchouli and opoponax and intertwined with vanilla cream lace.” -https://scentbase.com/scents/black-phoenix-alchemy-lab-bpal/shadow-lace/201808080752215356

Oil Color: A yellowed resin color on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a 5ml standard brown apothecary bottle.  The label extends just under halfway around the bottom.  The label features the name of the company along the bottom in a bleached bone block shadowed script, mirroring the name of the collaborating store, Dark Delicacies, positioned along the top.  The name of the scent is in a larger version of the same font also shadowed just above the company name.  The image art is as follows:

Scent:

  • ITB:  I remember being initially turned off by this one.  I think it was probably the darker oudh note since I’ve learned that oudh and I are hit and miss.  Now that it’s had a chance to age, the resins have matured beautifully, harmonizing with the plummy oudh and green cognac, deepened by the tobacco leaf. The vanilla cream base floats in the background, reminding me of a lace drawer deep inside a mahogany chest.
  • Wet: The plum oudh is still gorgeous on the skin, rich, dark, round, and subtly fruity.  It’s followed by heady tobacco leaf and opoponax over a dark patchouli and cognac.  Underneath these dark notes gently wafts the vanilla-cream lace, very much reminiscent of  heirloom lace stored over decades in scented dark corners.
  • Dry: After 12 hours, the plum has brightened considerably, now more of the juicy flesh paired with a delightful combination of opoponax, a whiff of subtle tobacco under faded vanilla’d lace.

Other Impressions: “It smells like the wall between a spice and a tea shop, actually like standing in between with somebody selling sheep skins (tallow) across the street.” -Tony

Day 1405 – BPAL’s Emerald Lace

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Scent Name:  Emerald Lace

Manufacturer:  Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab –  Retail Exclusive: Dark Delicacies

Scent Description and Notes: “Our delicate spun-sugar lace, grass-crushed and tobacco-stained, with hints of rue, pale sap, green fig, Green cognac, and opium poppy accord.” -https://scentbase.com/scents/black-phoenix-alchemy-lab-bpal/emerald-lace/201803101020393267

Oil Color: A slight yellow oil on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a 5ml standard brown apothecary bottle.  The label extends just under halfway around the bottom.  The label features the name of the company along the bottom in a bleached bone block shadowed script, mirroring the name of the collaborating store, Dark Delicacies, positioned along the top.  The name of the scent is in a larger version of the same font also shadowed just above the company name.  The image art is as follows:

Scent:

  • ITB:  Beautifully emerald blades of freshly cut grass against early fig, green cognac set against warmth from sugar-spun lace, tobacco and a light opium poppy note.
  • Wet: Goodness, that grass note is magnificent.  Grass, a pinch of sap, delicious green fig against green cognac, and rue make for a beautiful green canopy  under which the lace and sugar-spun lace dance like shadows in the early morning. Very refined.
  • Dry: This one has great longevity!  Over 13 hours later and I can still smell with some clarity green cognac, tobacco, delicate sugared lace, light opium poppy, and a sliver of fig.

Other Impressions: “Eh, how to explain it.  It’s really sweet and spicy but the floral is up front.  It’s a vine flower but I can’t think of it, especially a sun-warmed vine.  It nods towards a honeysuckle but that isn’t it.  It smells kinda like a soapy bubble bath floral with a hint of spice.” -Kelly

Day 1404 – BPAL’s Amber & Lace

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Scent Name:  Amber & Lace

Manufacturer:  Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab –  Retail Exclusive: Dark Delicacies

Scent Description and Notes: “The Golden Hour, casting a glorious light onto all it touches: sweet amber and golden oudh with vanilla cream, white cognac, saffron, and warm golden musk.” -BPAL.org

Oil Color: A  stunning burnished orange on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a 5ml standard brown apothecary bottle.  The label extends just under halfway around the bottom.  The label features the name of the company along the bottom in a bleached bone block shadowed script, mirroring the name of the collaborating store, Dark Delicacies, positioned along the top.  The name of the scent is in a larger version of the same font also shadowed just above the company name.  The image art is as follows:

Scent:

  • ITB: Yum!  That is the amber note I’ve been looking for! Golden sweet resinous delight emanating a shinning aura of which Apollo would take notice! Like the gentle rustle of chiffon skirts, saffron and vanilla cream peek through and fold around the golden amber musk brilliantly.  The cognac slips around the the other notes briefly and then recedes like the suggestion of sandals under billowy folds.
  • Wet: Yes. I’m not sure why I didn’t order another bottle of this.  Sweet amber absolutely shines with the help of a dazzling golden musk and oudh (a faint earthiness that rounds the resin perfectly) while the vanilla cream, saffron, and cognac swell just underneath.  This is heavenly and opulent!
  • Dry: What throw and beauty!  I feel like I’m training golden amber clouds of vanilla cream cotton candy clouds spiked with saffron and cognac. Deliciously layered resins, opulent and wildly feminine.

Other Impressions: About 20 years ago, I wandered into an head/occult shop in Old Town Sacramento and found this absolutely brilliant amber resin solid perfume. It was the purest, sweetest amber I have ever smelled and used it until I could no longer scrape the delicious scent from its metal canister. I’ve been looking for a perfume that has just that amber.  Well, this is it and I’m so thrilled to have found it!

“Carrot cake cupcake with nag champa incense.” -Tony

Day 1403 – BPAL’s Lavender Lace

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Scent Name:  Lavender Lace

Manufacturer:  Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab –  Retail Exclusive: Dark Delicacies

Scent Description and Notes: “The breath between love and mourning: a cascading bouquet of French lavender, smoke-touched, with bourbon vanilla and caramelized tobacco, pricked by tiny daggers of white cognac.” -https://www.facebook.com/BlackPhoenixAlchemyLab/posts/lavender-lacethe-breath-between-love-and-mourning-a-cascading-bouquet-of-french-/10156447914439940/

Oil Color: Colorless on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a 5ml standard brown apothecary bottle.  The label extends just under halfway around the bottom.  The label features the name of the company along the bottom in a dusky lavender block shadowed script, mirroring the name of the collaborating store, Dark Delicacies, positioned along the top.  The name of the scent is in a larger white bolded font also shadowed just above the company name.  The image art is as follows:

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Image from Google cache of Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab’s Facebook page.

Scent:

  • ITB: Mmm, meditative French lavender over a deeply exotic and warm blend of smoke and caramelized something glinting far beneath lavender’s sleepy folds.
  • Wet: This reminds me a little bit of BPAL’s Temple of Dreams on my skin.  The lavender here is so pure, restorative, and amazing.  There’s touches of very subtle smoked bourbon vanilla and caramelized tobacco far below the brilliant top note, which warms as the scent settles. The cognac twinkles along the periphery, but not enough to detract from the gorgeousness of the lavender.
  • Dry: The throw is pretty limited here.  Just 30 minutes after application, it’s only about 1″ from my skin. The lavender is still beautiful here, but there’s more of an exotic overall tone to the scent now that the caramelized tobacco and cognac have warmed to rival the lavender. The bourbon vanilla and smoke add more depth to the scent, darkening the lavender. It’s less meditative and now more mature -refined, cultured, independent, and enigmatic.

Other Impressions: “Carrot cake cupcake.” -Tony

Day 1402 – BPAL’s Champagne Lace

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Scent Name:  Champagne Lace

Manufacturer:  Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab –  Retail Exclusive: Dark Delicacies

Scent Description and Notes: “A glittering celebration: folds of opium-stained, vanilla-smoked lace with white cognac and a splash of champagne.” -https://blackphoenixalchemylab.tumblr.com/post/136851225588/a-new-dark-delicacies-exclusive-champagne-lace-a

Oil Color: Colorless on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a 5ml standard brown apothecary bottle.  The label extends just under halfway around the bottom.  The label features the name of the company along the bottom in faded bone script, mirroring the name of the collaborating store, Dark Delicacies, positioned along the top.  The name of the scent is in a larger champagne version of the script just above the company name.  The image art is as follows:

Scent:

  • ITB: The sparkling champagne note here is bright and effervescent over top a very subtle and diaphanous vanilla lace far in the background.  I can’t smell much else since the champagne note is tickling my nose.
  • Wet: Super fizzy, bright champagne that strikes me as on the sweeter side.  There’s a lovely sense of warmth underneath it and a light spice, probably from the opium and vanilla, but they are hard to tease out individually under the strength of the champagne.
  • Dry: After 5 hours, the scent still retails the beautiful champagne, although it’s less sparkling and up front, which means I can smell the gorgeous billowing smoked vanilla lace tinged with opium beneath it. It speaks of humid summer evening celebrations.  Beautiful!

Other Impressions: None.

Day 1401 – BPAL’s Smoke and Lace

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Scent Name:  Smoke and Lace

Manufacturer:  Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab –  Retail Exclusive: Dark Delicacies

Scent Description and Notes: “Brazen and beautiful, unconventional and daring. The scent of soft white leather gloves and the sharp crack of a riding crop mingled with tobacco, clove, incense, and opium smoke seeped into sugar-spun vanilla lace, all stained with green cognac, sweet dried red fruits, and wild plum.” -BPAL.org

Oil Color: A faint resinous yellow on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a 5ml standard brown apothecary bottle.  The label extends just under halfway around the bottom.  The label features the name of the company along the bottom in peaches and cream ombre block shadowed script, mirroring the name of the collaborating store, Dark Delicacies, positioned along the top.  The name of the scent is in a larger white version of the script just above the company name.  The image art is as follows:

Scent:

  • ITB: When this first arrived, opium smoke and leather overpowered everything, so I wanted give it a chance to settle before I gave it another go. Nearly 4 months later, the white leather is still cracking smart and assertive here, followed by a tumbling of opium, cognac, and sharp riding crop leather, while hints of plum, lace, and perhaps dried fruit hide in the background, like animals in the forest during a gentlewoman’s hunt.
  • Wet: I was expecting the same intensity of leather on my skin, but instead, I’m met with a surge of cognac and dry plum just before the white leather and riding crop leather notes bloom.  The opium smoke surges just after that, trailing that is something insect-like (perhaps dried fruit) , a dusky clove, and faint vanilla’d lace trim. This skews a bit more unisex to me than the other Laces.
  • Dry: Ah, the leather has mellowed quit a bit, but it still is the dominant note (both white and whip) next to the opium smoke and gentle vanilla lave with the subtlest dash of clove far in the background.  Nice.

Other Impressions: This makes me think of Bat Cave days – seedy, dark dance clubs filled with leather, lace, spilled drinks, clove cigarettes, thudding Siouxsie or Sisters of Mercy, and thick eye liner. Tony thinks the dried version smells like baby powder and something else, kind of like brown sugar, that he cannot name. He likes the smell of it, but just isn’t sure what it is

Day 1400 – BPAL’s Crinoline and Lace

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Scent Name:  Crinoline and Lace

Manufacturer:  Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab –  Retail Exclusive: Dark Delicacies

Scent Description and Notes: “Cascades of vanilla cream and voluminous poufs of gleaming coconut with white cognac, adorning a phantasmagoric farthingale of white musk, tobacco leaf, tea roses, and elemi.” -BPAL.org

Oil Color: Colorless on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a 5ml standard brown apothecary bottle.  The label extends just under halfway around the bottom.  The label features the name of the company along the bottom in peaches and cream ombre block shadowed script, mirroring the name of the collaborating store, Dark Delicacies, positioned along the top.  The name of the scent is in a larger white version of the script just above the company name.  The image art is as follows:

Scent:

  • ITB: Rich vanilla cream heaped with musk and flecked with tobacco and coconut with the ghost of tea rose in the very background very much fit the idea of refined Southern petticoats and crinolines displayed in the early afternoon.
  • Wet: Billowy clouds of vanilla cream and coconut like cotton candy, light and fluffy, atop the hidden structure of light tobacco leaf, subtle cognac, and musk.  I’m not getting much elemi or tea rose at all.
  • Dry: 3 hours after application, this scent has dried down into such a glorious combination of coconut and vanilla cream-infused tobacco layered with shimmering white musk and a hint of cognac.  It’s a more innocent and dreamy sister to BPAL’s Antique Lace.  I can see why people are chasing after this one.

Other Impressions: None.

Day 1399 – BPAL’s Tea Roses and Lace

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Scent Name:  Tea Roses and Lace

Manufacturer:  Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab –  Retail Exclusive: Dark Delicacies

Scent Description and Notes: “An opium-addled Victorian Easter: sugar-spun vanilla lace, black tea with cream, black tobacco and opium tar, a smear of chocolate, lavender-iced cookie crumbs, wilted tea roses, a burst of pink peony, green cognac, and a lacquered white musk.” -BPAL.org

Oil Color: Colorless on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a 5ml standard brown apothecary bottle.  The label extends just under halfway around the bottom.  The label features the name of the company along the bottom in white ombre block shadowed script, mirroring the name of the collaborating store, Dark Delicacies, positioned along the top.  The name of the scent is in a larger tea rose pink version of the script just above the company name.  The image art is as follows:

Scent:

  • ITB: Soft and dainty.  I’m getting pink peony, soft lavender iced cookies, a smidgen of chocolate, tea rose with a touch of vanilla lace, and a thimble of cognac.  It strikes me as very Victorian but a more foody take in terms of the Laces.
  • Wet: Lavender and cognac amp briefly while the scent is still wet, followed by pale musk and peony threaded subtly black tea.  After 30 sections, the iced cookie crumbles and cream slink forth under the tea rose’s umbrella, almost completely shielded from detection. The opium warms beautifully next to the tea rose and peony after several minutes of dry-down, tempered bu the vanilla’d spun sugar, this really does fit in well with the Lace family.
  • Dry: Two hours later, the scent is a classic, intoxicating combination of  white musk, peony, tea rose, sugared lavender, gentle vanilla lace, hints of cognac, and beautiful tendrils of opium.

Other Impressions: “It’s like pine-y sweet cake.  Like a pine-y coffee cake.” -Tony

Day 1398 – BPAL’s Queen Mab’s Lace

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Scent Name:  Queen Mab’s Lace

Manufacturer:  Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab –  Retail Exclusive: Dark Delicacies

Scent Description and Notes: 

And pleasant is the fairy land,

But, an eerie tale to tell,

At the end of every seven years,

We pay a tithe to Hell,

I am so fair and firm of flesh,

I’m feared it be myself.

 

The scent of twilight in a secluded grove. A tinkle of laughter in the distance echoes through the woods discordantly, and the shadows are thick with menace: a gossamer vanilla lace enveloped in a veil of honeysuckle, wild jasmine, poppy, crushed grass, evergreen, white cognac, white amber, lilac butter, tobacco, indigo musk, and bee balm. -BPAL.org

Oil Color: A faint yellowish oil on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork:  This is a 5ml standard brown apothecary bottle.  The label extends just under halfway around the bottom.  The label features the name of the company along the bottom in white ombre block shadowed script, mirroring the name of the collaborating store, Dark Delicacies, positioned along the top.  The name of the scent is in a larger pale pink rose version of the script just above the company name.  The image art is a beautiful print of Queen Mab and her attendants holding her billowing train.

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Image courtesy of Tiah Schindelheim Rodriguez.

Scent:

  • ITB: It’s like a fresh meadow breeze ruffling sweet grasses, honeysuckle, and lacy lilacs mingled with heady jasmine, a hint of poppy atop a subtle white cognac vanilla lace.  This is such a lovely springtime scent that makes me so excited to test it on my skin.
  • Wet: Oh, that’s lovely.  Crushed grass and lilac butter flutter softly against wisps of indigo and jasmine hiding just a sliver of vanilla.
  • Dry: 10 hours later and the scent has largely dissipated save the impression of an ephemeral ambered vanilla lace tinged with wildflowers.

Other Impressions: None.

Day 1397 – BPAL’s Witches’ Lace

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Scent Name:  Witches’ Lace

Manufacturer:  Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab –  Retail Exclusive: Dark Delicacies

Scent Description and Notes: “Moss-green sugar spun lace dusted with mandrake root and sweet aged patchouli, dusty cedar, and crushed toadstools with a cauldron-splash of nightshade accord, tobacco flower, green cognac, and woodsmoke –

…plus a pinch of ethically-harvested, locally-sourced vegan eye of newt and toe of frog. ” -https://www.darkdel.com/store/p1427/Witches%27_Lace.html

Oil Color: Colorless on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork:  This is a 5ml standard brown apothecary bottle.  The label extends just under halfway around the bottom.  The label features the name of the company along the bottom in black slightly italic script, mirroring the name of the collaborating store, Dark Delicacies, positioned along the top.  The name of the scent is in a larger mossy grey version of the script aligned to the left of an image of  a witch playfully batting a cat familiar with a broomstick.

Scent:

  • ITB: A burst of mossy smoke laced with that damp sweetness of patchouli layers over cognac,cedar, and tobacco. Interesting.
  • Wet: Mossy mandrake root, nightshade, and toadstools infused with heady tobacco, earthy patchouli, with spun sugar laid over lacy cognac and dusky cedar smoke remind me very much of a forest witch’s moldering cabin.  Very earthy, green, and delightfully foreboding.
  • Dry: I really like this dried. It’s a mossy, muddled delight of lace, cognac, vanilla’d tobacco, faint sugared patchouli and hints of dust and cedar.  Well worth the dry-down!

Other Impressions: “Somebody rubbed a rose on a turd. It’s like a poo disaster in a florist’s bathroom.  Have I mentioned that I don’t like oudh?  Well, the poo smell is fading, but it’s kinda there.  It’s more green. It’s like compost in a flower shop.” -Tony

Day 1396 – BPAL’s The Carousel

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Name: The Carousel

Manufacturer:  Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Neil Gaiman’s American Gods III

Scent Description and Notes: Calliope music played: a Strauss waltz, stirring and occasionally discordant. The wall as they entered was hung with antique carousel horses, hundreds of them, some in need of a lick of paint, others in need of a good dusting; above them hung dozens of winged angels constructed rather obviously from female store-window mannequins; some of them bared their sexless breasts; some had lost their wigs and stared baldly and blindly down from the darkness.

And then there was the carousel.

A sign proclaimed it was the largest in the world, said how much it weighed, how many thousand lightbulbs were to be found in the chandeliers that hung from it in Gothic profusion, and forbade anyone from climbing on it or from riding on the animals.

And such animals! Shadow stared, impressed in spite of himself, at the hundreds of full-sized creatures who circled on the platform of the carousel. Real creatures, imaginary creatures, and transformations of the two: each creature was different. He saw mermaid and merman, centaur and unicorn, elephants (one huge, one tiny), bulldog, frog and phoenix, zebra, tiger, manticore and basilisk, swans pulling a carriage, a white ox, a fox, twin walruses, even a sea serpent, all of them brightly colored and more than real: each rode the platform as the waltz came to an end and a new waltz began. The carousel did not even slow down.

“What’s it for?” asked Shadow. “I mean, okay, world’s biggest, hundreds of animals, thousands of lightbulbs, and it goes around all the time, and no one ever rides it.”

“It’s not there to be ridden, not by people,” said Wednesday. “It’s there to be admired. It’s there to be.”

A place of power and possibility, of gods diabolical and celestial: glowing amber and heady cinnamon, the green of growing things and the white of thunderclaps, sweet myrrh and sacred styrax, forest moss and blood-soaked battlefields, papyrus and clay, rose petals, wildflowers, abbatoirs, and honey. -https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/neil-gaiman/american-gods/american-gods-2/the-carousel/

Oil Color: A peachy colored oil.

Bottle Design and Artwork:  This is the lab’s brown apothecary bottle.  The label wrapped around the bottle features the name of the company in black bold font along the bottom.  The name of the scent is above that in larger font, outlined in red.  The image art is as follows:

 

  • ITB:  I’m getting wildflowers and moss under thundering skies laced with styrax and a clang of metal, papyrus and clay.  It’s hard to pin down as the notes shift beneath me so quickly.  I’m intrigued.
  • Wet: This paints such a vivid sensory picture for me in a delightful whirl of complexity.  I smell ancient deeds written atop papyrus illuminated with images of  electric wildflowers, rolling rose petals, brush strokes of styrax, and sweetening honeyed gore under sun-setting amber rays.
  • Dry: This scent is just gorgeous.  It continues to shift in these beautiful, almost sensuous ways throughout the day.  It’s a journey of evolving stories and I have been finding myself eager to repeatedly mark its progress.  After 11 hours, the scent still has about 2″ of throw and retains a beautiful clarity of honeyed, resinous delights sprinkled with rose petals, a dash of cinnamon, the charge of thunder, and a whisper of blood-tinged metal from battles long past.  Lovely.  A bottle might not be enough.

Other Impressions: “Orange-y and fresh.  I like it.” -Tony (30 minutes after application.

“It smells like sugar cookies and like how a Dad smells.” -Tony (on The Carousel dry 11 hours)