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Scent Name: Etude De Deshabille

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – The Devil’s Lovers:  Lupercalia 2017

Scent Description and Notes: “Black amber, 7-year aged patchouli, cashmeran, and tobacco leaf.” – https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/limited-edition/lupercalia-2017/etude-de-deshabille/

Oil Color:  The color of a deep copper penny.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz).  This is a sample from Jenn Nevaril, which has the bottle image on the  front, the name of the scent and date hand written on the back above the typed company acronym and decanting information.  The label art that would be on the bottle is a black and white pencil drawing of a woman, her hair in an up-do accented with a bow, in a sheer chemise who is undressing.

-Image from

  • ITI: My first impression is that it smells like what I imagine a French brothel would smell like – heavy, earthy patchouli sugared over by thick amber and seductive hints of cashmeran while the coiling tobacco of gentlemen callers undulates underneath.
  • Wet:  It’s heavy, somewhat resinous, and oddly floral, as if there were a jasmine note somewhere.  I’m not sure if it’s the cashmeran that’s reading floral, honestly.  The tobacco is present swirling between all the notes, even the thickly aged patchouli and dark tones of the black amber.
  • Dry: What a difference 6 hours makes!  The cashmeran is finally fully evident as a blond wood set against amber that’s no longer so dark and overpowering.  The toabacco leaf note is now much gentler, making the scent more alluring and less brazen.

Other Impressions: “It’s like lavender with cherry pipe tobacco curled against a leather couch.”  -Tony