Day 1104 – BPAL’s Les Fleurs du Mal

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cent Name: Les Fleurs du Mal

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Ars Moriendi

Scent Description and Notes: “The scents of the blossoms of darkness, condensed into one perfume. Features a rose base, softened with lilac and wisteria. -https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/ars-moriendi/les-fleurs-du-mal/

Oil Color: The color of apricot nectar.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz).  The label wrapped around the bottle features an Art-Deco inspired phoenix with the name of the company next to the phoenix. On the other side, the title of the scent written in large, clear black font outlined with red on the front.

Scent:

  • ITI: Soft, pink rose petals wafts forth, while wisteria blooms around it, adding a touch of almost floral musk to the rose.  In the center is the wisteria, which comes across as clean and elegant.  As a floral, I’d say this scent is elegant, demure, and beautiful.
  • Wet:  The wisteria becomes the dominant note on my skin, which still has that undertone of floral musk and a touch of powder  The rose is a bit more subdued, and unfortunately, a touch more soapy for me. The lilac emerges just a few seconds later and overtakes the other notes.  I’m hoping that these notes settle down as it dries.
  • Dry: After 10 hours and my cat licking off the perfume, what’s left is a subtle, soft floral. After re-testing, the lilac is soft and gentle while the rose drifts in the background, augmented by a touch of creamy muskiness. This is a much nicer scent once allowed to settle.
Other Impressions: “It’s powdery and kind of amber-y, but I’m having trouble picking out any single note.  It’s pleasant though.  I like it.” -Tony
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Day 1103 – Ava Luxe’s Pivoine Rose

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Scent Name: Pivoine Rose

Manufacturer: Ava Luxe Fine Fragrances

Scent Description and Notes: “Radiant Chinese peony blossoms are blended with notes of lush Bulgarian rose, May rose and sensual musks. A deliciously sparkling fragrance.

Notes: Chinese peony, Pink peony, Bulgarian rose absolute, May rose, Sensual musks, orris

Fragrance family
FLORAL” – http://www.ava-luxe.com/site/pages/scentindex/pivoine.html

Oil Color: Clear.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard imp size with a black top and tester stick.  The label  features The name of the scent in bold situated horizontally across the front of the imp.  Below that is the non-bolded phrase “perfume oil.”  The back of the label features two Deco iris while the front of the label displays the name of the company, the website in smaller font, and an image of an Art Deco woman on what looks like a lily pad.

Scent:

  • ITI: I was anticipating rose being the foremost note, but instead, peony blossoms unfurl, revealing a lovely, sweet Bulgarian rose note in the center of the scent, while languid musk lingers along the bottom elements of the scent.
  • Wet: The rose and peony vie for attention, yet there is a lovely dewiness about the floral notes that gives the scent a delicateness that I really appreciate.  The musk once again emerges after a minute, but it’s gentle and subdued under the elegant floral notes.
  • Dry: I’m honestly surprised by the longevity of this scent.  Nearly 18 hours from application, I can still detect rose, peony, and musk.  While the intensity is much reduced, the quality of each note is discernible and detectable enough to have a 1″ throw even now.

Other Impressions: None.

Day 1102 – Haus of Gloi’s Spider Silk

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Scent Name: Spider Silk

Manufacturer: Haus of Gloi – Halloween

Scent Description and Notes: “Procured from a dream: delicate water mint, wispy grey musk, crystalline webs of amber, oakmoss, torchwood, copaiba resin, and a touch of withered violet leaf. ” – https://www.hausofgloi.com/pages/halloween-scent-list

Oil Color: The color of diluted champagne.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard imp size with a clear top and tester stick.  The label  features what almost looks like spider camo around the edges and tab sticking out from the back.  The scent information includes the scent name in the center, above which is the company, below which are the phrases “Perfume Oil” and “5ml/Cruelty free” in decreasing font size. The name of the scent is in creepy Halloween font and is bracketed above and below by an Italic spacer and small pumpkins.

Scent:

  • ITI: It’s an interesting progression of notes that reminds me of fog rolling through a cemetery before dawn, the spider webs glistening with crystalline dew. I notice the mint first, followed swiftly by the oakmoss, gentle curls of torchwood smoke and  amber bloom just before the haunting note of the withered violet leaf emerges.  Definitely evocative of the season!
  • Wet: The amber tries to push past the other notes, but the watery mint, musk, and oakmoss restrain it while the violet leaf lingers in the background, keeping the scent both deliciously gloomy and hauntingly beautiful.
  • Dry: Oh, what a treat when dried!  The amber, musk, and copaiba resin linger close to the skin.  What was once haunting now is warm and inviting.

Other Impressions: “It’s like rosemary and woodsy…like sandalwood with a tiny hint of menthol.” -Tony

 

Day 1101 – BPAL’s Eclipses Be

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Scent Name: Eclipses Be

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – The Great American Eclipse

Scent Description and Notes: “

Eclipses be – predicted –
And Science bows them in –
But do one face us suddenly –
Jehovah’s watch – is wrong.
– Emily Dickinson

Rose amber, carnation, and clove. –https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/limited-edition/the-great-american-eclipse/songs-of-midday-darkness/eclipses-be/

Oil Color: A slightly rose-tinged amber distillation.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz).  This is a sample from Crown & Tulip, which features the bottle image on the  front and  the name, logo, and website of the company on back.  The label art that would be on the bottle features the name of the scent in  shadowed yellow block font, which is situated above the company name, which is in lower case bolded font in a black border along the bottom edge.  The image itself, individuals looking at an eclipse in what looks to be London, is framed by another black border that contains the lower case name of the collection.

  • ITI: The carnation and clove are bright and spicy as the scent emerges from the bottle, followed by the rose, sweetening the spiciness while the amber seems to act as an intermediary to add a delightful soft resinousness to the scent as a whole.
  • Wet: The clove moves more to the forefront, followed by the carnation.  The amber is soft and almost creamy behind the two spicy notes.  The rose emerges last but blooms around the other notes, adding a touch of femininity to the scent as a whole. It reminds me of cinnamon bears and rose candy.
  • Dry: After 12 hours, my skin eats up nearly everything  save for the faint impression of aged rose.  I do wish it lasted longer, but I loved every stage of this blend.

Other Impressions: None.

Day 1100 – BPAL’s All Ruinous Disorders

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Scent Name: All Ruinous Disorders

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – The Great American Eclipse

Scent Description and Notes: “These late eclipses in the sun and moon portend no good to us. Though the wisdom of nature can reason it thus and thus, yet nature finds itself scourged by the sequent effects. Love cools, friendship falls off, brothers divide, in cities mutinies, in countries discord, in palaces treason, and the bond cracked ’twixt son and father. This villain of mine comes under the prediction—there’s son against father. The king falls from bias of nature—there’s father against child. We have seen the best of our time. Machinations, hollowness, treachery, and all ruinous disorders follow us disquietly to our graves. Find out this villain, Edmund. It shall lose thee nothing. Do it carefully.—And the noble and true-hearted Kent banished, his offense honesty! ‘Tis strange, strange.
– William Shakespeare, King Lear

Amber, bergamot, and honeyed saffron blackened by smoked oudh, patchouli, ti leaf, scorched thistle, leather, and yew. – https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/limited-edition/the-great-american-eclipse/songs-of-midday-darkness/all-ruinous-disorders/

Oil Color: The color of straw in autumn.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz).  This is a sample from Crown & Tulip, which features the bottle image on the  front and  the name, logo, and website of the company on back.  The label art that would be on the bottle features the name of the scent in  shadowed yellow block font, which is situated above the company name, which is in lower case bolded font in a black border along the bottom edge.  The image itself, individuals looking at an eclipse in what looks to be London, is framed by another black border that contains the lower case name of the collection.

  • ITI: Lovely ti leaf, yew, thistle and bergamot create something akin to lavender with more depth and more resinous tones underneath from the oudh. There’s a hint of leather underneath it all, but it’s incredibly subtle.
  • Wet: The yew, ti leaf, and thistle are stronger on my skin – more distinct. There’s now a slightly bitter herbal quality to the scent that the smoked oudh and bergamot try to tame, but cannot completely.  There’s a subtle hint of patchouli and very faint leather that emerge as the amber note peaks its head out from underneath the herbal dominant notes.  It reminds me of a cottage in the woods with dried herbs hanging from the ceiling – just before dawn when the fire has burned itself out.
  • Dry: Now that the scent has had a couple of hours (and a brisk walk) to settle, it smells like a soft floral tones flanked by honey, amber, and bergamot with slight sandalwood and ti leaf undertones.

Other Impressions: “Like violets and leather?” -Tony

Day 1099 – BPAL’s Disastrous Twilight

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Scent Name: Disastrous Twilight

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – The Great American Eclipse

Scent Description and Notes: “As when the Sun, new risen,
Looks through the horizontal misty air,
Shorn of his beams, or from behind the Moon,
In dim eclipse, disastrous twilight sheds
On half the nations and with fear of change
Perplexes monarchs.
– John Milton, Paradise Lost

Star-touched blue amber, gurjum balsam, pale orris, Somalian myrrh, benzoin, red sandalwood, and ylang ylang. – https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/limited-edition/the-great-american-eclipse/songs-of-midday-darkness/disastrous-twilight/

Oil Color: The color of watered down apricot brandy.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz).  This is a sample from Crown & Tulip, which features the bottle image on the  front and  the name, logo, and website of the company on back.  The label art that would be on the bottle features the name of the scent in  shadowed yellow block font, which is situated above the company name, which is in lower case bolded font in a black border along the bottom edge.  The image itself, individuals looking at an eclipse in what looks to be London, is framed by another black border that contains the lower case name of the collection.

  • ITI: The first thought was insects in the forest.  The ylang ylang  to me has that buggy tone to it (but it always does, which is why I don’t reach for scents with that note in it), but the notes that sweep in after (amber, orris, and balsam) remind me of a LUSH store.
  • Wet: It’s ylang ylang once again as the initial note followed by the blue amber (which has an early twilight feel to it), and a sweet woodsiness, which I think might be the gurjum balsam with a touch of sandalwood, myrrh, benzoin and orris just behind it.  The LUSH similarities are still strong here (and still a bit too strong).  I’m sure it will be improved once settled.
  • Dry: The floral notes are much softer and more in balance with the amber, gurjum, orris, and sandalwood.  I do wish the myrrh were more detectable, but I do like the resinous shift this scent has taken.

Other Impressions: None.

Day 1098 – BPAL’s The Drunk Astronomer

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Scent Name: The Drunk Astronomer

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – The Great American Eclipse

Scent Description and Notes: “Credit for some of the first recorded accounts of eclipses are attributed to the legendary Drunk Astronomers, Ho and Hsi, circa 2137 BCE. Ho and Hsi were royal astronomers in the court of Chung K’ang. They were in charge of predicting the celestial dance – all movements of the Heavenly Bodies. They were also reprobates, and spent a fair amount of their time in debauch, drinking and carousing. In a drunken stupor – though they knew an eclipse was imminent – they failed to notify the emperor of the event, and they failed to perform the sacred rites that would prevent the celestial dragon from consuming the mighty sun. They were summarily decapitated for creating chaos and confusion in the celestial chain by leaving their duties unperformed.

Here lie the bodies of Ho and Hsi,
Whose fate, though sad, is risible;
Being slain because they could not spy
The eclipse which was invisible.

Jasmine tea, blood musk, and pale yellow amber. –https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/limited-edition/the-great-american-eclipse/the-drunk-astronomers/

Oil Color: Highlighter yellow on my skin, but the color of brandy in the imp.

Bottle Design and Artwork: his is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz).  This is a sample from Crown & Tulip, which features the bottle image on the  front and  the name, logo, and website of the company on back.  The label art that would be on the bottle features the name of the scent in  shadowed yellow block font, which is situated above the company name, which is in lower case bolded font in a black border along the bottom edge.  The image itself, individuals looking at an eclipse in what looks to be London, is framed by another black border that contains the lower case name of the collection.

  • ITI: Jasmine for me is often a note that too closely mirrors old air fresheners, but the combination of tea diminishes some of that overt artificiality. The amber is lovely and sweetly comforting under the jasmine tea.  The blood musk is rather faint and just adds a gentle softness to the scent.
  • Wet: On my skin, the tea aspect is a touch stronger and the blood musk finally swells to recognition.  The amber seems to take a step back, but it takes most of the artificiality of the jasmine with it.  As a whole, the scent evokes  memories of bakes apples and tea.
  • Verdict so far:  For a person who generally doesn’t like jasmine, this is a rather enjoyable scent.
  • Dry: Dry, it’s sweetly soft amber with a touch of floral tea and ruddy musk.  This is definitely a scent that’s worth the dry down.

Other Impressions: “It’s a little flowery, but it isn’t bad.  It quickly fades away and I have to re-smell it. I’d just be careful of wearing too much.” -Tony

Day 1097 – BPAL’s The Thales Eclipse

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Scent Name: The Thales Eclipse

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – The Great American Eclipse

Scent Description and Notes: “In the sixth year a battle took place in which it happened, when the fight had begun, that suddenly the day became night. And this change of the day Thales the Milesian had foretold to the Ionians laying down as a limit this very year in which the change took place. The Lydians however and the Medes, when they saw that it had become night instead of day, ceased from their fighting and were much more eager both of them that peace should be made between them.
– Herodotus, on a prediction of by Thales of Miletus

Red amber and leather, patchouli, champaca flower, frankincense, oudh, castoreum accord, and black musk. –https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/limited-edition/the-great-american-eclipse/the-thales-eclipse/

Oil Color: The color of apple cider vinegar.

Bottle Design and Artwork: his is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz).  This is a sample from Crown & Tulip, which features the bottle image on the  frontand  the name, logo, and website of the company on back.  The label art that would be on the bottle features the name of the scent in  shadowed yellow block font, which is situated above the company name, which is in lower case bolded font in a black border along the bottom edge.  The image itself, individuals looking at an eclipse in what looks to be London, is framed by another black border that contains the lower case name of the collection.

  • ITI: Hmm, dark, smokey leather speckled with masculine pitch, castoreum, and  some really earthy, dirty patchouli.
  • Wet: The patchouli is much dirtier on my skin while the castoreum and leather are a touch too animalistic.  It’s just a bit…woodsey…right now.
  • Dry: Even when dry, the scent as a whole is just too much like woodland animal excrement.  I had to wash the scent off, and only then did the amber come though.  A little too late, though.

Other Impressions: “It kinda smells like doodoo.  It’s like doodoo in a room with lots of potpourri.” -Tony

Day 1096 – BPAL’s In Hideous Darkness

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Scent Name: In Hideous Darkness

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – The Great American Eclipse

Scent Description and Notes: “The elements manifested their sorrow at this great man’s departure from England. For the Sun on that day at the 6th hour shrouded his glorious face, as the poets say, in hideous darkness, agitating the hearts of men by an eclipse; and on the 6th day of the week early in the morning there was so great an earthquake that the ground appeared absolutely to sink down; an horrid noise being first heard beneath the surface.
– Historia Novella, William of Malmesbury on the death of Henry I

Golden amber and ambergris, sage and white cedar, rockrose, bourbon tobacco, and vetiver. – https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/limited-edition/the-great-american-eclipse/in-hideous-darkness/

Oil Color: Clear on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard BPAL brown apothecary bottle.  The label wrapped around the bottle features the name of the scent in  shadowed yellow block font, which is situated above the company name, which is in lower case bolded font in a black border along the bottom edge.  The image itself, individuals looking at an eclipse in what looks to be London, is framed by another black border that contains the lower case name of the collection.

  • ITI:  I was expecting to smell heavy-handed vetiver, but instead, the smokiness is immediately tamed by the rockrose, lovely ambergris, and bourbon vanilla, which adds a slight floral sharpness that keeps the more smokey notes from being too overbearing.
  • Wet: The bourbon vanilla is stronger and a touch boozier on my skin, but the sage now comes though along with the golden amber to make the scent almost nostalgic.  The vetiver twins itself between top and middle notes, but it’s skill kept at bay by ambergris and rockrose, both now a touch more demure.
  • Dry: After a full 12 hours, the scent lingers close to the skin, a gentle dusting of soft amber, tobacco, and just a hint of sage.  Very nice!

Other Impressions: None.

Day 1095 – BPAL’s Nothing Is Unexpected Nothing Is Forsworn

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Scent Name: Nothing is Unexpected Nothing Is Forsworn

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – The Great American Eclipse

Scent Description and Notes: “Nothing is unexpected, nothing is foresworn and
Nothing amazes now that father Zeus the Olympian
veiled the light to make it night at midday
even as sun was shining: so dread fear has overtaken men.
From this time on everything that men believe
will be doubted: may none of us who see this be surprised
when we see forest beasts taking turns in the salted field
with dolphins, when the echoing waves of the sea become
Dearer to them than the sand, and the dolphins love the wooded glen
– Archilochus

Red amber and heady red wine, benzoin, ash, and bourbon vanilla. – https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/limited-edition/the-great-american-eclipse/nothing-is-unexpected-nothing-is-foresworn/

Oil Color: Slightly golden, like apple juice, on my arm.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard BPAL brown apothecary bottle.  The label wrapped around the bottle features the name of the scent in  shadowed yellow block font, which is situated above the company name, which is in lower case bolded font in a black border along the bottom edge.  The image itself, individuals looking at an eclipse in what looks to be London, is framed by another black border that contains the lower case name of the collection.

  • ITI:  Very heady red wine with traces of sour apple and ashed benzoin residue. I’m generally not a red wine note lover, so be forewarned that this review will be more biased than I’d like.
  • Wet: Ok, I may have written too soon.  On my skin, the red wine is much less sour and heady than it is mulled holiday red.  I do get more of the benzoin and red amber, which softens the wine considerably.  Sadly, no bourbon vanilla notes yet.  Still, this isn’t bad.  Cue shock.
  • Dry:  The mulled spices and red wine really come across nicely. There’s bits of benzoin and amber that make this seem more like a Christmas scent than anything else.  I actually like it, surprisingly.

Other Impressions: “I don’t know what kind of flower, but I get flower, a little clove, and is that myrrh? It smells like a Catholic grandma convention.” -Tony

Day 1094 – BPAL’s Mabel

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Scent Name: Mabel

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – The Great American Eclipse

Scent Description and Notes: “Mabel Loomis Todd is probably best known as the first editor of Emily Dickinson’s poetry and editor of publications of Dickinson’s posthumous works. She was also a fearless and experienced adventuress, eclipse chaser and astronomer, and trekked over the globe locating unobscured sites to witness solar eclipses. She published Total Eclipses of the Sun in 1894, a list of past and future total solar eclipses, and recorded her experiences in her travels through painting and journals.

Rose-tinted amber, golden chypre, ambergris, tobacco leaf, and clove. –  https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/limited-edition/the-great-american-eclipse/mabel/

Oil Color: Golden oil on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard BPAL brown apothecary bottle.  The label wrapped around the bottle features the name of the scent in  shadowed yellow block font, which is situated above the company name, which is in lower case bolded font in a black border along the bottom edge.  The image itself, individuals looking at an eclipse in what looks to be London, is framed by another black border that contains the lower case name of the collection.

  • ITI:  This smells absolutely amazing in the bottle, like fall – crushed leaves, golden sunlight, mulling spices, and dried rose petals. I want to have my entire house suffused with this scent.
  • Wet: The rose, amber, and clove are intoxicating and dominant, swirling around the more gentle notes of tobacco and ambergris that huddle just underneath.  The chypre, which is normally a combination of citrus, labdanum, and mossy notes, definitely contains  and a touches of smoky moss deliciousness, but it is overtly more golden than the traditional scent family.
  • Dry:  The rose amber and ambergris settle just above the golden chypre, while the tobacco and clove settle underneath, creating less of a heath/autumnal scent, and something much more seductively resinous.  Clearly, a half bottle will not be enough.

Other Impressions: “Oh, what are you wearing.  You smell goooood!” -Tony

Dat 1093 – BPAL’s Black Silk

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Scent Name: Black Silk

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Retail Exclusive: Pretty Indulgent

Scent Description and Notes: “A throaty laugh, a sinuous whisper: blackened sandalwood and bourbon vanilla cream with gleaming Haitian patchouli, animalic ambergris accord, immortelle absolute, white benzoin, and a drop of tobacco absolute. –  https://www.prettyindulgent.com/products/black-silk-perfume

 

Oil Color: Clear on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard BPAL brown apothecary bottle.  The label wrapped around the bottle features the name of the scent in in black Gothic font outlined in blue.  It sits above the company name, which is written in smaller font along the bottom of the label.  The co-company’s name is similar in shape and form to BPAL’s, but is placed along the top.  The label art features a woman in mourning attire with what looks like an elaborate silk hat, set against late autumnal trees.

  • ITI:  At first sniff, I thought I detected sugared violets, but I think that might actually be the immortelle with some of the vanilla cream.  If I concentrate, I can tease out a little of the bourbon  and a touch of the tobacco absolute.
  • Wet: Ah, now the patchouli waltzes in and takes the immortelle and bourbon vanilla cream on a whirling escapade through tobacco-laden saloons and benzoin perfumed dance floors.  I don’t get the ambergris, unfortunately, but it’s still a nice scent so far.
  • Dry:  I don’t know how many times I’ve reapplied this, but the scent is left with just a touch of  powdery vanilla cream and the memory of ambergris in the very distant past.

Other Impressions: None.

Day 1092 – BPAL s Alternative Facts

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Scent Name: Alternative Facts

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Limited Edition

Scent Description and Notes: “The truth hurts — so why tell it? Muffle the blow with Alternative Facts.

For example:

FACT: Following White House advisor Kellyanne Conway’s January 22 appearance on “Meet The Press,” sales of George Orwell’s 1984 skyrocketed, making it the fifth-best selling book on Amazon.com.

ALTERNATIVE FACT: In under a week, President Trump’s administration has already managed to improve literacy, reflecting the public’s renewed interest in privatized education, as well as its rejection of the mainstream media in favor of more “traditional” forms of information-gathering.

See how easy that is? With the help of Alternative Facts, even the most unpalatable among us can preside over a gallery of glittering, candy-coated delusions — one in which reality itself conforms to our beliefs, sincerely-held or otherwise.

ALTERNATIVE FACTS: If you truly want to obfuscate what you really smell like, this is the scent for you! Sugar-crusted vanilla, a firecracker-blast of cherry and sour lemon, a hint of scuttling spiders, encroaching fog, and trumpets of bombast, bluff, and bluster.” –  https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/limited-edition/alternative-facts/

 

Oil Color: Clear on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard BPAL brown apothecary bottle.  The label wrapped around the bottle features the name of the scent in  thicker block font just above the name of the company, which is in a much smaller version of the scent.  The image itself looks like a clip-art version of Abbott and Costello reading a newspaper.

 

  • ITI:  Strong, sticky cherry cough syrup jumps forth, followed upon concentration with a hint of musky vanilla and sugar congealed underneath.  I’m not really picking up lemon, which I think this scent needs to keep it from being entirely too sweet.
  • Wet: The cheery is still mainly cough syrup, but now it shifts back and forth to clear maraschino cherries.  As the scent settles seconds after application the lemon flicks forth like a serpent’s tongue just under the now lighter sugared vanilla note.
  • Dry:  After 12 hours, all that remains is the very subtlest ting of sticky sweet cherry  and a touch of vanilla.  I like it much better dried after several hours than I do wet or in the bottle.  Too sweet!

Other Impressions: None.

Day 1091 – BPAL’s Fake News

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Scent Name: Fake News

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Limited Edition

Scent Description and Notes: “2016 turned out to be the year of the NASTY WOMAN — and thanks to your purchases, BPAL was able to donate thousands of dollars to Planned Parenthood and Emily’s List!

Unfortunately, 2017 is already shaping up to be the year of FAKE NEWS. In anticipation of the upcoming inaugural proceedings — and the months, nay years of high-volume dishonesty that are to follow — we offer the following blend to help penetrate the dense fog of of misinformation that’s already begun settling around Truth, Justice, and other historically celebrated American ideals.

Wear it in vigilance as you sift through the memes, trolls, clickbait, hate-speech, and outright propaganda that continually threaten to overwhelm all the world’s kindness, wisdom, and informed expertise. Wear it in courage as you refute ignorance and insincerity at every turn — even from our nation’s highest-ranking figures — with indisputable facts from well-researched sources.

And try not to lose your sense of humor as you fight back, or your own essential humanity. As Anne Lamott once wrote: “You don’t always have to chop with the sword of truth. You can point with it too.” 

FAKE NEWS: A scent of misdirection, of 140 frantic characters typed out in spite at 3am, and paranoia-butted churlish accusations hurled at perceived enemies: crushed pink pepper pod, bitter white tobacco, gnarled patchouli, all covered in glinting, garish slashes of gold. –  https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/limited-edition/fake-news/

Oil Color:  The color of mashed strawberry juice on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard BPAL brown apothecary bottle.  The label wrapped around the bottle features the name of the scent in newsprint-like font with the name of the company in slightly smaller font just below it along the bottom of the bottle.  The image is of a stylized Twitter bird with three daggers through it.

 

  • ITI:  Delicious, resinously rich patchouli with streaks of gold, a gentle waft of tobacco, and enough pink pepper to make the nose tingle.  I like it!
  • Wet:  It still maintains everything that I enjoyed while in the bottle even on my skin.  It smells rich, expensive, and powerfully feminine with the white tobacco and gold notes.
  • Dry:  After 5 hours, the scent dissipates quite a bit.  I’m left with a gentle hint of the resinous patchouli and a touch of golden tobacco.

Other Impressions: For those who are weary of patchouli, try this scent.  I dislike earthy patchouli notes as they tend to make a scent smell to soil-like for me.  This patchouli is glorious, feminine, and well-balanced.

Day 1090 – BPAL’s Lily Witch

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Scent Name: Lily Witch

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – 

Scent Description and Notes: “Lilith named this scent, and said this perfume should smell like witches. Her interpretation is swathed in anise, lime, almond, and witchin’ herbs, and holds a bouquet of pale, graceful lilies. The end result is a sweet, nutty absinthe’d lime with a hint of spice and leather. – https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/in-memoriam/liliths/lilith-2014-princesses-ghosts-superheroes/lily-witch/

Oil Color:  Slightly yellow on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: his is a standard BPAL brown apothecary bottle.  The label wrapped around the bottle features the name of the scent in bold, pale lavender font at the top of the image.  At the bottom of the image is the collection date in very small plum font just above the company name, wich is in a slightly larger purpled grey font. The label art is as follows:

  • ITI:  It smells like lime marzipan with a touch of seasonal spices like cardamom and all spice.  I’m not a fan of marzipan at all.
  • Wet:  The lime is much stronger on my skin (thank goodness!), followed by marzipan mingled with anise.  Below the surface, notes of leather, something effervescent, and slightly spicy brew.
  • Dry: It’s so much better dried.  Now, I get lime, soft anise, a gentle dusting of spice, and actual almond slivers rather than the dreaded marzipan.

Other Impressions: The throw on this scent is pretty good and the intensity of the wet version of the scent lasted for about 3 hours before finally settling down.

Day 1089 – BPAL’s Zorya Polunochnaya

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This is a scent that I’ve been contemplating since the release of the collection.  I’m partial to resinous woods, but the combination of notes in this scent were just too lovely sounding to pass up trying out.

Scent Name: Zorya Polunochnaya

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – American Gods I

Scent Description and Notes: “Her hair was pale and colorless in the moon’s thin light. She wore a white cotton nightgown, with a high lace neck and a hem that swept the ground. Shadow sat up, entirely awake. “You are Zorya Polu . . . ,” he hesitated. “The sister who was asleep.”

“I am Zorya Polunochnaya, yes. And you are called Shadow, yes? That was what Zorya Vechernyaya told me, when I woke.”

“Yes. What were you looking at, out there?”

She looked at him, then she beckoned him to join her by the window. She turned her back while he pulled on his jeans. He walked over to her. It seemed a long walk, for such a small room.

He could not tell her age. Her skin was unlined, her eyes were dark, her lashes were long, her hair was to her waist and white. The moonlight drained colors into ghosts of themselves. She was taller than either of her sisters.

She pointed up into the night sky. “I was looking at that,” she said, pointing to the Big Dipper. “See?”

“Ursa Major,” he said. “The Great Bear.”

“That is one way of looking at it,” she said. “But it is not the way from where I come from. I am going to sit on the roof. Would you like to come with me?”

Pale amber and ambergris, gossamer vanilla, moonflower, and white tobacco petals. – https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/neil-gaiman/american-gods/zorya-polunochnaya/

Oil Color: Clear

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard BPAL brown apothecary bottle.  The label wrapped around the bottle features the name of the scent in bold, yellow letters along the bottom of the bottle, just above the smaller white block font of the company name.  The name of the collection is in even smaller white block font along the top of the label. The label art is as follows:

  • ITB:  When I sniff from the bottle, the white tobacco flowers are the most evident now, although something pale and almost wistfully delicate plays along the upper registers just behind and sometimes in front of the tobacco petals.  The more I try to tease out notes, the more the notes slip out of detection, jumping from nothingness to moonlight breeze.
  • Wet:  Yum – cool vanilla, almost like fantastic true vanilla ice cream is paired beautifully with the moonflower, tobacco petals, and pale amber.  I’m not picking up the ambergris, but what is present is lovely.
  • Dry: It’s like gossamer wings gently brushing my skin – gauzy vanilla dances delightfully with moonflower, very light amber, and just the faintest hint of tobacco and ambergris.  It’s at once warm and inviting as it is ethereal and delicately feminine.

Other Impressions: If you are debating trying this scent at all – don’t.  It’s simply gorgeous!

Day 1091 – BPAL’s Covfefe

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Scent Name: Covfefe

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Limited Edition

Scent Description and Notes: “Is it abstract nonsense poetry? Surrealist performance art? Cryptography so subtle and devious that it would make an Enigma machine blush? The verbal component of whatever spell that orb casts? Safe word? A typo fueled by cheap hooch, NoDoz, and poor impulse control? Is negative press covfefe anything like French press covfefe?

This perfume makes no fucking sense: orange marshmallow cream, bitter lemon, black pepper, orange carnation, and gin.” -https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/limited-edition/covfefe/

Oil Color: A faint orange wash on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: his is a standard BPAL brown apothecary bottle.  The label wrapped around the bottle features the name of the scent in bold, black  letters set just above the name of the company along the bottom of the label, which is in a smaller version of the font.  The image is of a Twitter bird with 3 swords through it.

  • ITI:  At first, it smells like an orange cream-sickle followed by popcorn Jellybelly jelly beans and pepper.  While it sounds like a discordant blend, it actually isn’t too bad as one note seems to slide seamlessly into the next.
  • Wet:  The pepper and gin notes are clearer once applied, but they still exist on the same plane as the orange marshmallow cream note.  The carnation is there, but it’s buried under the other notes that push it out of the way, just like Trump did with the prime minister of Montenegro.
  • Dry: Soft, dry orange cream notes with bits of lemon zest, a spritz of gin, and the memory of pepper adorn my skin now that the scent is dry.  I certainly enjoy it much more now that it’s hand a change to dry down.

Other Impressions: “Wow, that makes…no sense.  I suppose that’s the point.  It smells almost like it has apple in it. It’s not sweet apple, but not sour apple either. I’m starting to smell a lot more orange as it dries.” -Kelly

Day 1090 – BPAL’s Pediophobia

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Scent Name: Pediophobia

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – In Memoriam: Yule 2016: Phobias

Scent Description and Notes: “Fear of Dolls (But not ventriloquist dummies. That’s an entire phobia unto itself.)

White porcelain cracked by white tobacco, threads of brittle cognac, and vanilla filigree.” –https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/in-memoriam/pediophobia/

Oil Color: Clear on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard BPAL brown apothecary bottle.  The label wrapped around the bottle features the name of the scent in bold, pale pint prison type-face letters set just above the name of the company along the bottom of the label. Both the name of the company and the name of the collection frame the image in white, thin letters on both the top and the bottom of the label. The label art is of a blank and white photo of a scowling child warped in a cap and a scarf.  Behind the child is a father terrifying Santa smiling forth from his cascading beard.

  • ITI:  The vanilla is soft and gently musky, like on spun cotton or lace while the tobacco and cognac are fresh and delightfully sophisticated.  It reminds me a bit of a more grown up and heady version of Antique Lace.
  • Wet:  The vanilla is a touch ore powdery on my skin and the cognac less intense.  The scent as a whole takes on a more brittle quality, but the tobacco is still wonderfully blended with the other notes.
  • Dry: Once dry, the scent becomes delicately powdered porcelain vanilla laced cognac with the subtle hint of tobacco.  It has a little bit of a throw even now (4 hours after application), which is positive.

Other Impressions: I have worn this a number of times and I keep reaching for it still. Delightful!

Day 1089 – BPAL’s Hoiru

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Scent Name: Hoiru

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – In Memoriam: Lupercalia: Novel Ideas for Secret Amusements

Scent Description and Notes: “Bourbon vanilla and suede leather, tonka and patchouli, pale amber and blackened tea leaf, coconut husk and cashmere.” –bpal.org

Oil Color:  Clear on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard BPAL brown apothecary bottle.  The label wrapped around the bottle features the name of the scent in bold, yellow letters set just above the name of the company along the bottom of the label. Both the name of the company and the name of the collection frame the image in white bold letters on both the top and the bottom of the label. The label art features two males engaged in rather gymnastic intercourse.

  • ITI: It smells like baby oil mixed with cashmere. If I concentrate, I can just tease out the vanilla, but it’s virtually undetectable on first sniff.
  • Wet:  Initially, Hoiru smelled like baby oil when I first applied it, but just seconds later, the complexity of the notes emerge.  Now, I get cashmere, light patchouli, blackened tea, suede, and hints of coconut husk on my skin.
  • Dry: The scent doesn’t to seem to have some of the staying power of others I’ve tried recently.  What I do get 4 hours after application is coconut husk, a touch of vanilla, and a whisper of tea.

Other Impressions: None

Day 1088 – BPAL’s Goth Queen

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Scent Name: Goth Queen

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Drag*Con Event Exclusive

Scent Description and Notes: “Clove smoke, opium poppy, blackened patchouli, and a dribble of sugared absinthe.” – bpal.org

Oil Color:  Clear on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard BPAL brown apothecary bottle.  The label wrapped around the bottle features the name of the scent in bold black calligraphy at the top while the name of the company is in bold block orange font outlined in red.  The label art that would be on the bottle is as follows:

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Image from Tiah Schindelheim Rodriguez.

  • ITB: Delicious glove quickly flanked by an absinthe that is a bit different than other BPAL absinthe notes. This one smells a little like celery and I’m not sure why.  The patchouli is brighter and spicier than other blackened patchouli notes, almost like it’s heavily laden with cinnamon.
  • Wet:  Clove, cinnamon patchouli, followed quickly by that odd absinthe note.  Something about that note isn’t sitting right with me. As it starts to dry, that’s sugared over with opium smoke and more cinnamon clove.
  • Dry: The first time I wore this on Friday the 12th, the scent dried down to absinthe dribbled on heavy celery and a very subtle hint of clove.  I was devastated.  Only 5 days later, however, the celery note vanished after an hour while the clove and cinnamon-like patchouli threw beautifully from my wrist. 3 hours after application, I get light clove, opium smoke, and a hit of absinthe and patchouli.  It’s so much better!  Perhaps it just needed to settle after shipping.

Other Impressions: This scent smells drastically different based on your skin chemistry.  On my girlfriend, it’smells like gobs of cinnamon, glove, and patchouli.  On me, not so much. “It smells better on her than it does on you.  On you, it’s just bland.” -Brad from 5/12 test