Day 1089 – BPAL’s Zorya Polunochnaya

Tags

Amber, Ambergris, American Gods, American Gods I, BPAL, gossamer vanilla, moonflower, pale amber, tobacco, vanilla, white tobacco, white tobacco petals

This is a scent that I’ve been contemplating since the release of the collection.  I’m partial to resinous woods, but the combination of notes in this scent were just too lovely sounding to pass up trying out.

Scent Name: Zorya Polunochnaya

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – American Gods I

Scent Description and Notes: “Her hair was pale and colorless in the moon’s thin light. She wore a white cotton nightgown, with a high lace neck and a hem that swept the ground. Shadow sat up, entirely awake. “You are Zorya Polu . . . ,” he hesitated. “The sister who was asleep.”

“I am Zorya Polunochnaya, yes. And you are called Shadow, yes? That was what Zorya Vechernyaya told me, when I woke.”

“Yes. What were you looking at, out there?”

She looked at him, then she beckoned him to join her by the window. She turned her back while he pulled on his jeans. He walked over to her. It seemed a long walk, for such a small room.

He could not tell her age. Her skin was unlined, her eyes were dark, her lashes were long, her hair was to her waist and white. The moonlight drained colors into ghosts of themselves. She was taller than either of her sisters.

She pointed up into the night sky. “I was looking at that,” she said, pointing to the Big Dipper. “See?”

“Ursa Major,” he said. “The Great Bear.”

“That is one way of looking at it,” she said. “But it is not the way from where I come from. I am going to sit on the roof. Would you like to come with me?”

Pale amber and ambergris, gossamer vanilla, moonflower, and white tobacco petals.” – https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/neil-gaiman/american-gods/zorya-polunochnaya/

Oil Color: Clear

Bottle Design and Artwork: his is a standard BPAL brown apothecary bottle.  The label wrapped around the bottle features the name of the scent in bold, yellow letters along the bottom of the bottle, just above the smaller white block font of the company name.  The name of the collection is in even smaller white block font along the top of the label. The label art is as follows:

Image from https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/neil-gaiman/american-gods/zorya-polunochnaya/

• ITB:  When I sniff from the bottle, the white tobacco flowers are the most evident now, although something pale and almost wistfully delicate plays along the upper registers just behind and sometimes in front of the tobacco petals.  The more I try to tease out notes, the more the notes slip out of detection, jumping from nothingness to moonlight breeze.
• Wet:  Yum – cool vanilla, almost like fantastic true vanilla ice cream is paired beautifully with the moonflower, tobacco petals, and pale amber.  I’m not picking up the ambergris, but what is present is lovely.
• Dry: It’s like gossamer wings gently brushing my skin – gauzy vanilla dances delightfully with moonflower, very light amber, and just the faintest hint of tobacco and ambergris.  It’s at once warm and inviting as it is ethereal and delicately feminine.

Other Impressions: If you are debating trying this scent at all – don’t.  It’s simply gorgeous!

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Day 1089 – BPAL’s Hoiru

Tags

Amber, blackened tea leaf, bourbon, bourbon vanilla, BPAL, cashmere, coconut, coconut husk, In Memoriam, Leather, limited edition, lupercalia, lupercalia 2017, Novel Ideas for Secret Amusements, pale amber, patchouli, suede, suede leather, tea, tea leaf, Tonka, vanilla

Scent Name: Hoiru

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – In Memoriam: Lupercalia: Novel Ideas for Secret Amusements

Scent Description and Notes: “Bourbon vanilla and suede leather, tonka and patchouli, pale amber and blackened tea leaf, coconut husk and cashmere.” –bpal.org

Oil Color:  Clear on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: his is a standard BPAL brown apothecary bottle.  The label wrapped around the bottle features the name of the scent in bold, yellow letters set just above the name of the company along the bottom of the label. Both the name of the company and the name of the collection frame the image in white bold letters on both the top and the bottom of the label. The label art features two males engaged in rather gymnastic intercourse.

• ITI: It smells like baby oil mixed with cashmere. If I concentrate, I can just tease out the vanilla, but it’s virtually undetectable on first sniff.
• Wet:  Initially, Hoiru smelled like baby oil when I first applied it, but just seconds later, the complexity of the notes emerge.  Now, I get cashmere, light patchouli, blackened tea, suede, and hints of coconut husk on my skin.
• Dry: The scent doesn’t to seem to have some of the staying power of others I’ve tried recently.  What I do get 4 hours after application is coconut husk, a touch of vanilla, and a whisper of tea.

Other Impressions: None

Day 1085 – BPAL’s Lyonesse

Tags

Amber, Ambergris, BPAL, elemi, gilded musk, golden vanilla, grey amber, lily, moss, Musk, orris, orris root, sandalwood, sea moss, stargazer lily, the phantom islands, vanilla, wanderlust, white sandalwood

 

Name:  Lyonesse

Manufacturer:  Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Wanderlust: The Phantom Islands

Scent Description and Notes: “

Then rose the King and moved his host by night
And ever pushed Sir Mordred, league by league,
Back to the sunset bound of Lyonesse —
A land of old upheaven from the abyss
By fire, to sink into the abyss again;
Where fragments of forgotten peoples dwelt,
And the long mountains ended in a coast
Of ever-shifting sand, and far away
The phantom circle of a moaning sea.

Golden vanilla and gilded musk, stargazer lily, white sandalwood, grey amber, elemi, orris root, ambergris and sea moss.”

– https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/wanderlust/lyonesse/

Oil Color: A light barley color.

Bottle Design and Artwork:  This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz).  The label wrapped around the bottle features an Art-Deco inspired phoenix with the name of the company next to the phoenix. On the other side, the title of the scent written in large, clear black font outlined with red on the front.

Image from https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/wanderlust/lyonesse/

Scent:

• ITI: Hmm, interesting.  I pick up a golden vanilla note rather clearly, which is followed almost instantly by the dusky orris root and grey amber with a touch of sweet floral from the lily.
• Wet: It smells like soft lilies and other florals amongst a landscape of dewy, verdant greens, like a luscious meadow, shrouded in a musk fog and a touch of amber.
• Dry: Sweetened vanilla musk lingers with darkened amber and hazy sandalwood, surrounding distilled stargazer lily and very faint ambergris.  I like it, but it’s almost too sweet.

Other Impressions: “It’s like buttery and violet-y. Like that hard violet candy” -Tony

Day 1080 – BPAL’s I

Tags

Amber, black amber, BPAL, Leather, limited edition, lupercalia, lupercalia 2017, myrrh, The Pleasures of the Imagination

Scent Name: I

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – The Pleasures of the Imagination: Lupercalia 2017

Scent Description and Notes: “Black amber, leather, and myrrh.” –https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/limited-edition/lupercalia-2017/pleasures-of-the-imagination/i/

Oil Color: The color of liquid cinnamon.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz).  This is a sample from Jenn Nevaril, which has the bottle image on the  front, the name of the scent and date hand written on the back above the typed company acronym and decanting information.  The label art that would be on the bottle consists of a photograph of a woman mostly unclothed save for an ill-fitting corset whipping a bound woman underneath her.

• ITI: Mmm, that’s a great leather note.  It reminds me of the smell of the riding tack room I had on the farm when growing up – soft brown leather, worn, but oiled to preserve the beauty of the bridles and ornately tooled leather saddles. The amber and myrrh elevate that leather note but their resinous allure into a scent that’s both nostalgic and provocative.
• Wet:  On my skin, the black amber vaults forward, followed by hints of myrrh.  I’m barley picking up the leather note – just an edge of something that isn’t resinous.
• Dry: After 6 hours, the scent is a  sensuous, soft combination of  sweet myrrh and resinous amber.  Not much of the leather remains, but I’m honestly okay with that since I love a good resinous perfume.

Other Impressions: None.

Day 1076 – BPAL’s Etude De Deshabille

Tags

7 year aged patchouli, Amber, black amber, BPAL, cashmeran, limited edition, lupercalia, lupercalia 2017, patchouli, the devil's lovers, tobacco, tobacco leaf

Scent Name: Etude De Deshabille

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – The Devil’s Lovers:  Lupercalia 2017

Scent Description and Notes: “Black amber, 7-year aged patchouli, cashmeran, and tobacco leaf.” – https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/limited-edition/lupercalia-2017/etude-de-deshabille/

Oil Color:  The color of a deep copper penny.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz).  This is a sample from Jenn Nevaril, which has the bottle image on the  front, the name of the scent and date hand written on the back above the typed company acronym and decanting information.  The label art that would be on the bottle is a black and white pencil drawing of a woman, her hair in an up-do accented with a bow, in a sheer chemise who is undressing.

-Image from

• ITI: My first impression is that it smells like what I imagine a French brothel would smell like – heavy, earthy patchouli sugared over by thick amber and seductive hints of cashmeran while the coiling tobacco of gentlemen callers undulates underneath.
• Wet:  It’s heavy, somewhat resinous, and oddly floral, as if there were a jasmine note somewhere.  I’m not sure if it’s the cashmeran that’s reading floral, honestly.  The tobacco is present swirling between all the notes, even the thickly aged patchouli and dark tones of the black amber.
• Dry: What a difference 6 hours makes!  The cashmeran is finally fully evident as a blond wood set against amber that’s no longer so dark and overpowering.  The toabacco leaf note is now much gentler, making the scent more alluring and less brazen.

Other Impressions: “It’s like lavender with cherry pipe tobacco curled against a leather couch.”  -Tony

Day 1072 – Lovers Embrace Under a Cock Kimono

Tags

Amber, balsam, balsam peru, blood orange, BPAL, geranium, limited edition, lupercalia, lupercalia 2017, Novel Ideas for Secret Amusements, orange, patchouli, Rose, rose geranium, Shunga

Scent Name: Lovers Embrace Under a Cock Kimono

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Novel Ideas for Secret Amusements: Lupercalia 2017

Scent Description and Notes: “Amber and balsam peru with patchouli, blood orange, and rose geranium.” –https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/limited-edition/lupercalia-2017/lovers-embrace-under-a-cock-kimono/

Oil Color: The color of filtered apple juice with a touch more yellow.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz).  This is a sample from Jenn Nevaril, which has the bottle image on the  front, the name of the scent and date hand written on the back above the typed company acronym and decanting information.  The label art that would be on the bottle features two loves, clothed only in open juban, kissing under a kimono with an elaborate rooster design spread across it.

• ITI: Mmm, it reminds me of Pledge polishing oil in the best possible way.The blood orange skews a bit more lemon-like when combined with the earthy patchouli and balsam peru.  It’s definitively a soothing and nostalgic scent for me so far.
• Wet: The scent stays close to what it was in the bottle, but the blood orange is just a bit foodier now that the amber has emerged on my skin.
• Dry:   Wow, that’s shifted quite noticeably.  After about 6 hours, the scent is  a lovely, mellow combination of soft amber gently mingling with blood orange blossoms and lovely rose geranium.  The balsam is very faint, but it adds more depth to the scent by providing a resinous base, making the scent a creamier nearly vanillad slightly sensuous floral. Yum!  This is definitely worth the dry-down.

Other Impressions: “It’s like dusty but spicy. I smell spices in it, but it also smells old.  I guess that’s better than dusty.  Like antique. Spicy and antique.” -Kelly

Day 1065 – BPAL’s Botticelli’s Unicorn

Tags

Amber, amber-limned rose, Art of the Unicorn, Art of the Unicorn Part 2, BPAL, Leather, limited edition, Musk, opal, opal musk, Rose, white leather

Scent Name:  Botticelli’s Unicorn

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Art of the Unicorn Part 2

Scent Description and Notes: “White leather, opal musk, and amber-limned rose.”  – https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/limited-edition/boticellis-unicorn/

Oil Color: A peached rose color.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz).  This is a sample from Mystery213.  The label features the name of the company and the name of the scent.  The bottle art is as follows:

Image by Alessandro Boticelli from https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/limited-edition/boticellis-unicorn/

• ITI: Hmm, light, sweetly fruity with muskiness that reminds me more of a freshly cleaned B&B, amber,  and a dusting of old-fashioned rose decolletage powder.
• Wet: Ah, there’s the rose, rich and reg, it’s fragrance imperially set off by the lightly dusky opal musk and rich, resinous sandalwood.  There’s only a touch of leather in the background, which seems to frame the richness of the rose. Nice!
• Dry:  Sweet, powdered amber, gentle musk, and dried, deep red roses. I like it.  It’s on the subdued, feminine side, it it is a really lovely rose scent for those of you who enjoy that particular note.

Other: None.

Day 1048 – BPAL’s Sin

Tags

Amber, black patchouli, BPAL, cinnamon, patchouli, sandlawood, sin and salvation

Scent Name: Sin

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab –  Sin & Salvation

Scent Description and Notes: “Thoroughly corrupted: amber, sandalwood, black patchouli and cinnamon.”  -https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/sin-and-salvation/sin/

Oil Color: A gorgeous brandied Maraschino cherry red color.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz).  The label wrapped around the bottle features an Art-Deco inspired phoenix with name of the company next to the phoenix. On the other side, the title of the scent written in large, clear black font outlined with red on the front.

Image from https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/sin-and-salvation/sin/

• ITI: Oh yes! Heady patchouli, deep, dark, almost astringent writhes against fiery cinnamon with touches of sandalwood to sweeten the mix.  Sin indeed.
• Wet: Even better.  The sandalwood is so much darker than I anticipated in this blend.  Imagine a cabin deep in the woods, surrounded by rich soil, pulsing plant life, fragrant woods and sandalwood curling from the cabin’s hearth.  Now, add dark cinnamon, corrupted but beautiful to the mix.  Pardon me while I roll around in this scent.
• Dry: The amber is more apparent once dry, sweetining the smoldering  cinnamon and patchouli notes along with the sandalwood.  It’s a bit softer, but it’s still dangerous and incredbily alluring.  To the wishlist you go!

Other Impressions: It gets everywhere.  Apply carefully. “It smells pretty good.  Kind of Lily-like, like lily and ambergris.” -Tony

Day 1038 – BPAL’s Gáttaþefur

Tags

Amber, apricot, baked bread, BPAL, bread, butter, C02, limited edition, mandarin, mandarin amber, yule, Yule 2015, Yule Lads

Scent Name: Gáttaþefur

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Yule Lads: Yule 2015

Scent Description and Notes: “Favorite pastime: sniffing doorways. Everyone needs a hobby! Baked bread, apricot, mandarin amber, and CO2 of butter.” -https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/the-yule-lads/gattathefur/

Oil Color: Colorless

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz). This is a decant from Absinthetics.  On the back, she has the notes of the scent, the name of the scent in bold orange font. Her decanting information is in green.  The font of the label features the same label art as the bottle, which is the name in light yellow, shadowed font.

Scent: 

• ITI: Thick pastries, laden with brown sugar, candied raisins and apricot come to mind.  It reminds me of a buttery fruit cake.
• Wet: There’s a bit more mandarin amber on my skin, but it still reminds me of a buttery pastry with candied fruits.
  
• Dry: Okay, I like this better once dried.  The apricot and mandarin are sweetened, as if by a light dusting of brown sugar that has started to caramelize on a rich, flaky pastry.  I’m almost tempted to get more, but I don’t know how often I’d want to smell like such a yummy pastry. 

Other Impressions: “Yeah, yeah.  Fruit cake and black pepper.” -Tony

Day 1025 – Solstice Scents’ Tenebrous Mist

Tags

Amber, aquatic, bay rum, Musk, rum, sandalwood, sea, sea spray, smoke, Summer 2014, tea, tea leaves, white amber, wood, wood smoke

Scent Name:  Tenebrous Mist

Manufacturer: Solstice Scents – Summer 2014

Scent Description and Notes: “Soft Musks, White Amber, Sea Spray, Sandalwood, Bay Rum, Tea Leaves & Wood Smoke ” -Solstice Scents

Oil Color:Colorless.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz). The imp has a black cap and a parchment-colored label that features the name of the company and the website in black font with the name of the scent written in ink along the blank portion of the label.

Image from http://www.evolutionofafoodie.com/2014/12/indie-weekends-solstice-scents-winter.html

Scent:

• ITI: Steeling myself for a heavy dose of aquatic nastiness, I’m instead met with wood smoke, rum, strong tea leaves, and salty sea spray.  It definitely feels like a beach.  In fact, it reminds me of walking along the shores near Monterey.
• Wet: It’s much more aquatic – watery, salty, sharp – on my skin, but the amber musk does a decent job of  tamping down the quality of the aquatic somewhat.  I do really enjoy the sandalwood and tea notes that drift under the sea spray.
• Dry: Much to my surprise, the aquatic tones from the sea salt note have nearly faded away completely.  Instead, I’m left with tea leaves, rum, musk, sandalwood, amber, and a hint of smoke.  I like it much more once dried. 
  

Other Impressions: “Hmm, that’s nice.  It’s spicy but it smells like incense, too.” -Kelly

Day 1023 – Nocturne Alchemy’s Bastet

Tags

Amber, Bastet Incense Accord, black sugar, Blue Purnima, crystalline, Halloween 2016, Incense, limited edition, Spice, spices, sugar

Scent Name: Bastet

Manufacturer: Nocturne Alchemy – Halloween 2016

Scent Description and Notes: “‘Preparing for the Halloween Masquerade I wanted a perfume that was subliminal and still very sensual and feline as I walked the ballroom floor peering through the mask of a Cat Goddess. With the purrfect blend of soft spices, Bastet Amber, Crystalline, soft incense, Black Sugar and Blue Purnima (Bastet Incense Accord), I was ready to embrace the evening with the moon high in the distance looking out past the guests and into the Halloween night.'” ~Bastet
” – http://www.nocturnealchemy.com/ha20ban.html

Oil Color: Clear.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz). The company has its website in lowercase black font along the bottom of the label just underneath a Vapothecary.  Above that is an image of an angry Jack O Lantern, and above tat is “sample” in larger, all caps font. The entire label is a cool silver color, the color of the silver label dots one might find at Office Max. The back of  the label displays the name of the scent in larger black capitalized font. Along the spine is the phrase “Perfume Vile” in an Arabic-inspired font in a rusty pink color.

Image from http://ep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-42950465129556/new-halloween-2016-bastet-anubis-3.gif.

Scent: 

• ITI:  It’s oddly sweet, resin-imbued, and somewhat floral.  It reminds me of molasses cookies topped with candied ginger.
• Wet: The black sugar, incense, and crystalline notes are the most evident when first allied.  Spice emerges slightly thereafter, but the combination of spices reads more as baking spice than as distinct notes like clove or nutmeg.
  
• Dry:  After a good 12 hours, the scent is faint on my skin -black sugar and a touch of the impression of incense.  This is a pass for me. 

Other Impressions: None.

Day 1022 – Alchemic Muse’s Bloodlust

Tags

Amber, blood orange, dragon's blood, dragon's blood resin, Incense, iron distilled patchouli, myrrh, orange, patchouli, resin

Scent Name: Bloodlust

Manufacturer: Alchemic Muse

Scent Description and Notes: “A penetrating, sanguine scent flowing with sensuality. Dragon’s blood resin, heady incense, and iron distilled patchouli saturated with blood orange and thickened with amber and myrrh.
“-AlchemicMuse.com

Oil Color: I cannot tell since the imp bottle is amber in color, although the oil has a slightly copper tone on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz). The label is printed on a nice quality sticker paper that has an aged blue color and what is supposed to mimic aged, slightly burned pages around the edge.  The Label features the name of the company in stylized script at the top, underneath which is the designation of products made.  Below that is a Baroque mantle piece of art that frames the name of the scent, which is in bold Gothic stylized font.  Below that is the phrase “perfume oil sample” in lighter and smaller font.

Image from http://www.alchemicmuse.com/products/bloodlust-perfume-oil

Scent: 

• ITI: Pleasant.  The dragon’s blood resin is sweeter, as if mixed with hibiscus and tampered down by the orange and  myrrh.  The resin is soft and sweet just under the dragon’s blood and orange.
• Wet:  The orange is sweeter and more pronounced once the scent chances upon skin, but the overall sweet and pleasant mix of resins, incense, light floral and myrrh remain the same.
  
• Dry:  Patchouli emerges as the scent dries, overpowering the subtle floral of the dragon’s blood and the sweet tones of orange.  Instead, I’m left with a dry patchouli, mild but slightly acidic orange, some incense, and the faintest hint of myrrh.  It’s okay, but I loved it so when still wet. 

Other Impressions: None.

Day 1021 – Alchemic Muse’s Amber Crush

Tags

Amber, bourbon, bourbon vanilla, golden amber, patchouli, resin, vanilla

Scent Name: Amber Crush

Manufacturer: Alchemic Muse

Scent Description and Notes: “A purely indulgent and deeply sensual treat! Precious golden amber resins crushed together with dark patchouli and sweetened with a veil of bourbon vanilla.”-AlchemicMuse.com

Oil Color: I cannot tell since the imp bottle is amber in color, although the oil has a slightly copper tone on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz). The label is printed on a nice quality sticker paper that has an aged blue color and what is supposed to mimic aged, slightly burned pages around the edge.  The Label features the name of the company in stylized script at the top, underneath which is the designation of products made.  Below that is a Baroque mantle piece of art that frames the name of the scent, which is in bold Gothic stylized font.  Below that is the phrase “perfume oil sample” in lighter and smaller font.

Image from http://www.alchemicmuse.com/products/amber-crush-perfume-oil

Scent: 

• ITI: Oh, what decadent blend. The amber is rich, golden, and somewhat crystallized, as if bound in beeswax or fine honey. The vanilla is well balanced – sweet without being cloying, warm without being heavy.  To top it all off, the incense is thick with myrrh and frankincense, making this seem like a perfume fit for any wise woman or man.
• Wet: On my skin, the vanilla is a bit more heady and the amber slightly thicker than in the imp, but glorious  nonetheless.
  
• Dry:  The amber, still golden and slightly crystallized, has now become  a bit fainter. The incense still feels like it’s swirling about the amber, while the vanilla sweetens everything.  It’s not as decadent, but still a lovely scent.  I just wish it was stronger. Granted, the throw is about 2″ even after 5 hours of wear, so it has some legs. 

Other Impressions: None.

Day 1020 – Nocturne Alchemy’s Black Raven

Tags

Amber, amber musk, black amber, black crystal crystal, black frankincense, black musk, black sugar, fig, Frankincense, Incense, Musk, patchouli, red musk, sugar, white fig

Scent Name: Black Raven

Manufacturer: Nocturne Alchemy –

Scent Description and Notes: “A dark romantic perfume for the heart of the gracefully aphotic and romantic poem of The Raven.

Perfume of sweet Black Frankincense. Tendrils of Patchouli and Aged Black Musk. Wisps of Incense. Amber Musk. With a ghost kiss of White Fig essential oil. Black Sugar, Black Amber, Crimson Red Musk and Black Crystal.” -http://www.nocturnealchemy.com/nblrapc.html

Oil Color: I cannot tell since the imp bottle is amber in color, although the oil has a slightly copper tone on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz). The company has its website in lowercase black font along the bottom of the label just underneath a Vapothecary.  Above that is an image of an angry Jack O Lantern, and above tat is “sample” in larger, all caps font. The entire label is a cool silver color, the color of the silver label dots one might find at Office Max. The back of  the label displays the name of the scent in larger black capitalized font. Along the spine is the phrase “Perfume Vile” in an Arabic-inspired font in a rusty pink color.

Scent: 

• ITI:  Hmm, browned sugar, fig, incense, heaps of musk and amber are most evident when I sniff the scent in the imp.  It makes my nose tingle, so that might be an indication of a note that won’t work on me.  We’ll see.
• Wet: It’s sweet like Dimetapp on my skin, but the more I sniff it, the more I can work past the cloying notes to the incense and the patchouli.  The combination of sugars and musks, however, is a significant deterrent for me, though.
  
• Dry:  After an hour, it’s still overly sugary with heavy globs of  black and red musk, doused with amber and incense.  The fig is nice in this blend, but the sugar just is too much for me. 

Other Impressions: None.

Day 1019 – The Morbid The Merrier’s Shantell

Tags

Amber, Arabian jasmine, black pepper, Cedar, jasmine, limited edition, moss, Odditoria, pepper, pikake, pink pepper, wood

Scent Name: Shantell

Manufacturer: The Morbid The Merrier – Odditoria

Scent Description and Notes: “Pikake, amber, cedar, pink and black pepper, wood, moss.” -http://eyelinerandspraypaint.blogspot.com/2011/09/morbid-merrier-review.html

Oil Color: A dark resin color.  It’s like mahogany without the red tones.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz). This is a sample directly from the company.  The label looks like aged parchment in color and texture.  The name of the company, which is placed horizontally down the label, is in fancy Calligraphy script with the M’s emphasized in weight.  The name of the scent is simply written in black felt-tip pen.

Image from http://gunnmetal27.blogspot.com/2011/09/morbid-merrier-review.html

Scent: 

• ITI:  When I first tried this one, I had tried looking for the notes, but I just couldn’t find anything since the company has since disappeared.  I knew there was a sugar note in there, but it was more a turbinado than a straight confectioner’s sugar. I also suspected there was a light wood note as well, not quite a teak, but something a bit more stately. It turns out it is a cedar, but it isn’t hit-you-over-the-head cedar, but  a lighter version, like pulling a soft sweater out of a wooden chest and smelling the cedar note lazily curl off the soft fibers.  As I go back, I think I can detect a citrus in there as well, although not orange (I’m trying not to look at the scent notes I just found). The citrus strikes me as something smaller, somewhat like a kumquat. It turns out that what I was reading as citrus, however, was just the combination of pikake, amber, and pink pepper.  It’s certainly is an interesting combination of notes.
• Wet:  The other wood note is more pronounced here, but it reminds me of oak.  The cedar is still present, and swirls deliciously around the amber, jasmine, pepper, and rich moss.  I’m happy that note showed up.  It reminds me of the moss forests in Japan just outside of a wooden shrine with incense still smoldering.  Wow!

• 

  Fukusenji Temple in Tono, Japan. Image copyright Tiah Schindelheim Rodriguez, 2015

• Dry: Once dry, the scent skews more masculine since the moss, pepper, and wood notes persist while the amber softens everything only slightly.  I liked it when wet, but I think I’ll pass now that it has dried.

Other Impressions: None.

Day 1006 – BPAL’s Startled Toad

Tags

aged patchouli, Amber, BPAL, carnation, coconut, Frankincense, golden amber, lemongrass, lupercalia, Lupercalia 2015, patchouli, Shunga, vanilla

Scent Name:  Startled Toad

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Lupercalia 2015: Shunga

Scent Description and Notes: “Golden amber and coconut with frankincense, frothy vanilla, carnation, sweet aged patchouli, and lemongrass.“ –bpal.org

Oil Color: A Lovely tamarind color.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz). This is a decant from Absinthetics.  On the back, she has the notes of the scent, the name of the scent in orange bold font, and her decanting information in green.  The font of the label features the same label art as the bottle, which is a spotted toad looking rather bemused at the phallic serpent descending from the tree near the toad.

Scent: 

• ITI: Ooh, it’s perfume-y and floral, with a pleasant baby oil undertone and slightly spiciness of carnation swaddled in frankincense.
• Wet: It’s warm and sweet on my skin – the notes of coconut, amber, full but slightly waxy vanilla, faint frankincense, and a touch of delightful lemongrass waft up to greet my nose. Very pleasant.
  
• Dry:  Thankfully, the waxiness of the vanilla dissipates completely under the pointed carnation, spicy patchouli, and warm sandalwood. While it doesn’t have much throw it it, it is rather provocative.  I’m tempted to add this to my buy list. 

Other Impressions: None.

Day 991 – MAC’s Dejarose

Tags

Amber, Bulgarian rose, green, jasmine, lily, limited edition, MAC, MAC Creations, orchid, patchouli, peony, pepper, pink pepper, raspberry, red raspberry, red rose, tea rose, Turkish rose, wood

Scent Name:   Dejarose

Manufacturer:  MAC Cosmetics – Creations 2005

Scent Description and Notes: “A striking bouquet of lush Bulgarian, Turkish and Tea Red Roses, ruffled with luminous green nuances, while velvety petals of exotic orchid, lily, jasmine and peony are teased with a hint of crimson red raspberry then topped with a shake of pink pepper. To follow: the sensual interplay of light and dark woods, brought to fruition with a waft of patchouli and amber crystal. An intriguing scent paradox and thoroughly modern “retro-scent.” – http://www.angelfire.com/mac2/ambriel/fragrance_mac.htm

Perfume Oil Color:  Clear.

Bottle Design and Artwork:  This is larger 20ml bottle. The lid is a vibrant lipstick rose rectangle (sharp edges), the middle is clear to grant a view of the perfume, and the bottom is a slightly rounded black rectangle.  The tube that extends into the perfume matches the bottle cap perfectly. The company’s logo is engraved on the top of the lid, but the body of the bottle features no other writing unless you turn the fragrance over.  There, you find a sticker of the company logo in white against a black background, the collection in smaller bold fold, the amount and location of the company in smaller block font below that.

Image from http://fimgs.net/images/perfume/nd.6195.jpg

Scent:

• ITB:  It smells like a harden of red roses – luscious, deeply fragrant, evocative, and green.  Awesome!
• Wet: Rose and alcohol.  I should probably let that dry a touch. It settles down into a nice blend of rich roses, a touch of raspberry, tea rose, and faint orchid.
• Dry: It’s smoky and spicy from the pink pepper and patchouli, with subtle pink and light florals (lily and magnolia). Oddly enough, the rose note rather transitory, leaving me with only the lightest impression of rose rather than the overwhelming ppersuasiveness of the note in earlier stages.

Other Impressions: None.

Day 990 – MAC’s Pinkaura MV4

Tags

Amber, black violet, Creations II 2005, floral, freesia, green, limited edition, MAC, MAC Creations, MAC Creations Fragrance Blend Variation Parfumee MV4, magnolia, vetiver, violet

I’m going to review my M.A.C. fragrances since they have been waiting so patiently.  I think I used MV5, but I do remember fondly that it was a crisp, green scent that reminded me of cut grass.

Scent Name:   MAC Creations Fragrance Blend Variation Parfumee MV4: Pinkaura

Image from http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v227/butterflysister/mac/perfume.jpg

Manufacturer:  MAC Cosmetics – Creations II 2005

Scent Description and Notes: “Lingeringly floral, slightly foxy. Starts off green then bursts into a flowery bouquet of freesia, black violet and magnolia petals. Sashays into a rich warm amber and balmy vetiver.” – http://www.angelfire.com/mac2/ambriel/fragrance_mac.htm

Perfume Oil Color:  Clear.

Bottle Design and Artwork:  This is the smaller MV4 Creations 15ML bottle. The lid is a pale pink rectangle (sharp edges), the middle is clear to grant you a view of the perfume, and the bottom is a slightly rounded black rectangle.  The tube that extends into the perfume matches the bottle cap perfectly. The Company’s logo is engraved on the top of the lid, but the body of the bottle features no other writing unless you turn the fragrance over.  There, you find a sticker of the company logo in white against a black background, the collection in smaller bold fold, the amount and location of the company in smaller block font below that.

 

Scent:

• ITB:  For me, the scent is largely floral, although there is some greenness as a bid tone underneath the freesia (very prominent) and the magnolia. There’s a touch of warmth from the amber, but it reads less like amber and more like musk when paired with the vetiver.  That note is really just an impression of smokiness, not the thick, indolent note the Lab uses.
• Wet: The vetiver is a bit stronger when wet, but the ffreesianote is just shouting above all the rest.  The greenness tries to keep up, and the amber lags behind.
• Dry:  Wordpress ate my original thoughts, but I remember thinking that the scent once dry was primarily pink floral, with freesia being the most apparent note.  There’s a touch of resinousness from the vetiver, but it does skew just every so slightly powdery.

Other Impressions: None.

Day 949 – BPAL’s In Templum Dei

Tags

Amber, BPAL, cistus, cistus labdanum, Frankincense, labdanum, limited edition, liquidamber, Oman frankincense, Only Lovers Left Alive, Only Lovers Left Alive Soundtrack

Scent Name: In Templum Dei

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Only Lovers Left Alive: Soundtrack

Scent Description and Notes: ““Oman frankincense, cistus labdanum, white sandalwood, and liquidambar.“ -http://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/product-category/only-lovers-left-alive/

Oil Color: The color of spiced rum.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz). This is a decant from ralenth.  On the back, she has the notes of the scent, the side features her decanting information, and the front features the company acronym, the title of the scent, the collection, and the date, along with a scent-appropriate image.  The label art for the bottle is below:

Image from http://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/only-lovers-left-alive/templum-dei/

Scent: 

• ITI:  Catholic Mass on highly polished wooden pews adorned with glimmering bronze accents -rich and contemplative.
• Wet:  The metal element is still fairly pronounced, while the resins, frankincense, labdanum, and liquidamber warm on my skin, the amber among which being the most dominant.  I find the amber note rather interesting as it has a faint lemony quality.
  
• Dry: It dries down into the most delicious, soft, and sumptuous blend of amber, frankincense, and sandalwood I’ve smelled to date.  Gorgeous!

Other Impressions: None.

Day 939 – Victoria’s Secret’s Noir Tease

Tags

Amber, apple, benzoin, benzoin laos, freesia, gardenia, jasmine, lychee, magnolia, mandarin, Musk, pea, pear, praline, red apple, red delicious apple, sandalwood, Sexy Little Things, sweet pea, vanilla, Victoria's Secret

Scent Name:  Noir Tease

Manufacturer:  Victoria’s Secret –  Sexy Little Thing

Scent Description and Notes: “Flirt. Play. Tease! Seductress meets coquette in this boudoir-inspired fragrance from our award-winning Sexy Little Things collection. The warm blend of black vanilla, frozen pear and blooming gardenia wraps you in modern glamour. Our signature atomizer makes this eau de parfum the ultimate in retro cool. Show it off!

• Fragrance type: Warm
• Top notes: Mandarin, lychee, frozen pear, red delicious apple
• Middle notes: Sweet pea, jasmine, gardenia, freesia, magnolia
• Dry-down notes: Benzoin laos, vanilla, musk, praline, amber, sandalwood.” -Victoria’s Secret website

Perfume Oil Color: Blush pink.

Bottle Design and Artwork:  This is a larger and squatter sample 2.66 ml/.09 fl oz vial with a  clear body and a black cap with matching spray nozzle. The bottle itself is clear glass with black font throughout.  The name of the scent is in large, stylized font while the type of perfume, amount, production information, and location are all in much smaller surrounds placed around the vial.

Image from https://www.victoriassecret.com/beauty/sexy-little-things/tease-eau-de-parfum-sexy-little-things?ProductID=4422&CatalogueType=OLS

Scent:

• ITV:  On first sniff, I’m met with a pleasant, soft, femininely sweet scent – it’s floral, but not overtly white or imposing due to the combination of magnolia, sweet pea, pear, and red apple over the gardenia and jasmine., yet there is also a foody muskiness to this from the praline, vanilla, musk, and amber that makes this scent a little more racey than one would normally wear to the office.
• Wet: Oh, that’s much sweeter on my skin.  The pear, apple, and praline aren’t nearly as balanced on my skin as it was on the testing strip. However, as it settles, I’m now getting a bit more lychee, mandarin, more powdery aspects of sandalwood, vanilla, and amber.  There’s almost a creme brulee sub-note here.  As a non-foody, I’m actually not put off by this entirely, which I think might be due to the juicy fruit notes and florals over top.
• Dry: It’s super faint, but it still largely retains the sense of warm, sensual fruits and florals with amber, mandarin, and gardenia still being faintly distinguishable.

Other Impressions:  “What’s that pink bottle you tried on in Bangkok? Versace’s “Bright Crystal”?  I can’t remember exactly what the bottle smelled like, but I immediately thought of that one when I smelled this.  It smells like flowery bubblegum.” -Tony