Day 1440 – BPAL’s Mars Corotiacus

Tags

BPAL, chypre, dark leather chypre, In Memoriam, juniper, juniper berry, Leather, leather chypre, lupercalia, Lupercalia 2015, Lupercalia 2015: Ode to Mars 2015, Ode to Mars, Ode to Mars 2015, Sage, white sage

Scent Name: Mars Corotiacus

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Lupercalia 2015: Ode to Mars 2015

Scent Description and Notes: “MARS COROTIACUS

Mars of the Cavalry

A dark leather chypre with white sage and juniper berry.” -BPAL.org

Oil Color: A cheery yellow pollen color.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard 1/32 ml imp that has been decanted for me by Absinthetics. Her label features the scent notes on the back along with her decanting information and the scent name. The label art features a black and white photograph of a lithe younger nude man, cleaning against some draped object, one arm in back of his wavy, tousled hair, one arm draped by his side.

Scent:

• ITI: Clean shaven, cool, lightly green, and balmy are the first words that come to mind.  I’m definitely getting refined leather chypre and refreshing and slightly astringent juniper berry threaded with dissipated white sage smoke.  
• Wet: The juniper berry moves forward, just a step above the sophisticated leather chypre, both of white are swathed in the gentle impression of white sage.  However, after 30 seconds, the leather chypre overtakes the juniper again.  Gosh, the leather chypre is so compelling. It reminds me at first of men hiking through the PNW with leather packs, but now invokes images of well dressed business men talking through the streets of Tokyo late at night, while the rain spreads a damp coolness through the air.
• Dry:  This one fades pretty quickly.  After 3 hours, I can only detect a subdued juniper chypre.

Other Impressions: None.

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Day 1439 – BPAL’s Mars Ultor

Tags

Amber, benzoin, black amber, blackened nutmeg, BPAL, caramel, caramelized tobacco, cistus, In Memoriam, lupercalia, Lupercalia 2015, Lupercalia 2015: Ode to Mars 2015, nutmeg, Ode to Mars, Ode to Mars 2015, smoke, smoky vanilla, tobacco, vanilla

Scent Name: Mars Ultor

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Lupercalia 2015: Ode to Mars 2015

Scent Description and Notes: “MARS ULTOR

Mars the Avenger

Black amber and smoky vanilla with cistus, benzoin, caramelized tobacco, and blackened nutmeg.” -BPAL.org

Oil Color: A fiery cherry brandy colored oil.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard 1/32 ml imp that has been decanted for me by Absinthetics. Her label features the scent notes on the back along with her decanting information and the scent name. The label art features a black and white photograph of a rather muscular younger man, completely nude and oiled, holding a whip.  The label art is as follows:

Image from https://thegameofnerds.com/2015/03/20/the-darling-nerd-black-phoenix-alchemy/

 

Scent:

• ITI: Oh, that’s lovely!  I’m getting deliciously smoked amber vanilla set against lightly caramelized tobacco and benzoin with a sliver of perhaps a cistus cologne.  I’m not getting much nutmeg at this point, but I don’t mind one bit. 
• Wet: This reads as more clean once applied as the benzoin and cistus push toward the top on my skin, followed by a breathy nutmeg, hints of amber cologne, and a touch of sweetened smoke. Tobacco and vanilla, where are you?
• Dry:  Ooh, that’s fantastic!  Warm blackened amber and cistus over tobacco and smoked vanilla, edged with light benzoin.

Other Impressions: None.

Day 1438 – BPAL’s Mars Alator

Tags

BPAL, fig, In Memoriam, lupercalia, Lupercalia 2015, Ode to Mars, Ode to Mars 2015, sweet fig, vetiver

Scent Name: Mars Alator

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Lupercalia 2015: Ode to Mars 2015

Scent Description and Notes: “MARS ALATOR

Mars the Huntsman

Sweet fig and vetiver.” -BPAL.org

Oil Color: an older oak colored oil.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard 1/32 ml imp that has been decanted for me by Absinthetics. Her label features the scent notes on the back along with her decanting information and the scent name. The label art features a photograph of a nude man atop a saddle, under which is a cheetah pelt.

Image from https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/mars-alator/

Scent:

• ITI: Gentlemanly vetiver with a hint of earthy sweetness from the fig.  Compelling, actually. 
• Wet: Sticky, dark fig against a refined and smokey vetiver does speak of cultured individuals proudly proclaiming their “prowess” in precious trophies.
• Dry:  After 9 hours, my skin has eaten almost all of the scent  save for the most minuscule impression of fig.

Other Impressions: “It smells kike Christmas candles.” -Tony

Day 1437 – BPAL’s Riding in the Palanquin

Tags

BPAL, In Memoriam, lacquere, lacquered wood, lupercalia, Lupercalia 2015, Lupercalia 2015: Shunga, Novel Ideas for Secret Amusements, Shunga, Shunga 2015, wood

Scent Name: Riding in the Palanquin

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Lupercalia 2015: Shunga – Novel Ideas for Secret Amusements 2015

Scent Description and Notes: “RIDING IN THE PALANQUIN

Lacquered wood, mother of pearl, bamboo, silk, ho leaf, and jasmine blossoms.” -BPAL.org

Oil Color: A thin watered down citrine color.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard 1/32 ml imp that has been decanted for me by Absinthetics. Her label features the scent notes on the back along with her decanting information and the scent name. The label art is a shunga woodblock print of joyous lovers making love, covered by a blue kimono while riding in a palanquin.

Scent:

• ITI:  Soft, soothing, refined.  The silken bamboo is balanced beautifully against the ho leaf and delicate jasmine blossoms, enhanced by something that reads almost lemon-y.
• Wet: That’s really gorgeous.  I’m still getting lemon, but it’s a silky, refined, and polished wood, which is just beautiful up against the bamboo, young green jasmine, and ho leaf.
• Dry:  After 8 hours, I’m left with a gentle lemony lacquered wood musk.

Other Impressions: None.

Day 1436 – BPAL’s A Commentary

Tags

apricot, bergamot, bitter clove, BPAL, clove, In Memoriam, lupercalia, Lupercalia 2015, Lupercalia 2015: Shunga, Musk, neroli, Novel Ideas for Secret Amusements, red musk, Shunga, Shunga 2015, vetiver

Scent Name: A Commentary

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Lupercalia 2015: Shunga – Novel Ideas for Secret Amusements 2015

Scent Description and Notes: “A COMMENTARY

Ripe apricots and neroli-tinged red musk with bergamot, bitter clove, and vetiver.” -BPAL.org

Oil Color: A deep cherry bourbon color.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard 1/32 ml imp that has been decanted for me by Absinthetics. Her label features the scent notes on the back along with her decanting information and the scent name. The label art is a shunga woodblock print of an orgy.

• ITI:  Smokey neroli overlays deep red musk spiced with bitter, dry clove and dried apricot.  I’m not getting much bergamot at this point.
• Wet: It smells much the same on my skin, reading as red musk and neroli and dried apricot laced with clove and vetiver.
• Dry:  After 4 hours, the scent has settled into a soft apricot musk layered over with bergamot and a now sedate neroli.

Other Impressions: “Musky peaches?” -Tony

Day 1329 – BPAL’s Mars Loucetius

Tags

BPAL, champaca, champaca flower, chypre, In Memoriam, lupercalia, Lupercalia 2015, Lupercalia 2015: Ode to Mars, rockrose, Rose, sandalwood, tea, tea chypre, white sandalwood, white tea, white tea chypre

Scent Name: Mars Loucetius

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Lupercalia 2015: Ode to Mars

Scent Description and Notes: “MARS LOUCETIUS

Mars of the Thunderstorm

A white tea chypre with rockrose, white sandalwood, and champaca flower.” -bpal.org

Oil Color: The color of Suntori whiskey.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard 1/32 ml imp that has been decanted for me by Absinthetics. Her label features the scent notes on the back along with her decanting information and the scent name. The image is of Mars below:

Image from Ebay.

• ITI: Light champaca flower and a clean white tea chypre with a subtle nuance of rockrose.  It’s light and very much a scent I’d associate with early spring.
• Wet: On my skin, I’m only getting the white tea chypre, which I’m honestly pleased with since the combination of bergamot tones, white tea, and a hint of vegetal buoyancy makes for a scent that is just pure joy.  It reminds me of rollicking through a meadow filled with baby’s breath and crocuses.
• Dry: After a full day, all that’s left is a gentle white tea musk. As a whole, I’d say that this is a pleasant early spring scent.

Other Impressions: None.

Day 1328 – BPAL’s Smut

Tags

booze, BPAL, In Memoriam, limited edition, lupercalia, Lupercalia 2015, Musk, sugar

*Edit: Now that I’m over enough of the flu to smell again, let’s resume testing.  The positive to all of this is that my 2019 Luper decants arrived and now I can compare this Smut to the 2019 Smut version.* 

Scent Name: Smut

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Lupercalia 2015

Scent Description and Notes: “What a great freakin’ word. BPAL LOVES TEH SMUT! Three swarthy, smutty musks sweetened with sugar and woozy with dark booze notes.” -bpal.org

Oil Color: The color of walnut wood.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard 1/32 ml imp that has been decanted for me by Absinthetics. Her label features the scent notes on the back along with her decanting information and the scent name. The image on the label consists of ta couple engaged in coitus on the floor.

• ITI:  This is my first Smut, so I don’t have much of a basis of comparison, so this review will be based on the aged 2015 version. I’m getting dry, dusky, faintly berried musk (red musk) sugared over with evaporating booze. The 2019 version’s booze notes are much stronger, reminding me of a sweetened, aged whiskey topped with bits of caramelized sugar.  The musk here are a bit less berried and ore fuzzy and almost woody.  
• Wet:  Berried musk and a faintly darker musk with a subtle undertone of evaporating brandy.  I’m not picking up much of the sugar, but I’m not sure if that’s just my stuffy nose or if it’s just mellowed with age. The booze note is still sweeter in the 2019 version, but I am getting the impression of sugar and a darker berry, almost like elderberry preserves. The musks strike me as darker still, although I’m getting less of a woody tone than I did in the imp.  
• Dry: After roughly an hour, the 2015 Smut smells like dried booze, faintly brown musk, and a hint of berried sweetness.  2019 Smut is much more clearly a very nice whisky with caramelized sugar, dark musk, and dark berries muddled together.  I’m not sure if it is a difference in aging or in scent composition, but I really enjoy this year’s version much better. 

Other Impressions: None.

Day 1325 – BPAL’s Laudanum Bonbon

Tags

bittersweet chocolate, black poppy, Box of Bonbons, Box of Bonbons 2015, BPAL, chocolate, In Memoriam, lupercalia, Lupercalia 2015, Lupercalia 2015: Box of Bonbons 2015, myrrh, nutmeg, poppy, sassafras

Scent Name: Laudanum Bonbon

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Lupercalia 2015: Box of Bonbons 2015

Scent Description and Notes: “Nicely narcotic: bittersweet chocolate with nutmeg, sassafras, black poppy and myrrh.” -bpal.org

Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab’s Labdanum:  The essence of the most debauched hunger encapsulated into a perfume. Desire beyond love, anguish beyond sanity. Nutmeg, sassafras, black poppy and myrrh.

Oil Color: A brandy colored oil.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard 1/32 ml imp that has been decanted for me by moons_storm. Her label features the scent notes on the back.  The company acronym along with the scent’s name and the decanting information is on the front.  The image on the label consists of who cartoon hearts, but I no longer can find how the original label art appeared.

Image from http://www.blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/in-memoriam/laudanum-bonbon/?woocommerce_waitlist=41102&woocommerce_waitlist_nonce=86e22cc835

• ITI:  Bitter, 100% chocolate nibs rules the scent, propelled forward by an inkiness that might be from the poppy, heavily spiced with nutmeg, threaded with the distinctive tone of sassafras.  Interesting.
• Wet: Smoked sassafras drips with inky poppy, a hint of nutmeg, and bittersweet chocolate swirled just underneath.  The inkiness is so intense that it reminds me of black oudh and vetiver, even though I know those notes aren’t present.  I’m not sure how much the chocolate will warm on me, but this scent strikes me as a slightly feral take on sassafras rather than a bonbon.
• Dry:  Oh, I like this now that it’s had several hours to dry.  It’s sassafras and hints of chocolate muddled over myrrh with a dash of nutmeg.  Spicy, sweet but not cloying, and interesting!

Other Impressions: None.

Day 1324 – BPAL’s Desire Bonbon

Tags

apple, Belgian chocolate, bergamot, black musk, black patchouli, blood red rose, Box of Bonbons, Box of Bonbons 2015, chocolate, In Memoriam, lupercalia, Lupercalia 2015, Lupercalia 2015: Box of Bonbons 2015, Musk, neroli, patchouli, red rose, Rose, teak, vanilla

Scent Name: Desire Bonbon

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Lupercalia 2015: Box of Bonbons 2015

Scent Description and Notes: “Belgian chocolate with neroli, black patchouli and black musk, gilded by apple, bergamot, blood red rose, teak, and vanilla.” -bpal.org

Oil Color: A diluted apricot wine color.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard 1/32 ml imp that has been decanted for me by moons_storm. Her label features the scent notes on the back.  The company acronym along with the scent’s name and the decanting information is on the front.  The image on the label consists of who cartoon hearts, but the original label art is similar to below, save for the name showing the adjective in a russet version of the font pictured.

Image from http://www.blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/in-memoriam/desire-bonbon/?woocommerce_waitlist=41102&woocommerce_waitlist_nonce=86e22cc835

• ITI:  Powdered milk chocolate, juicy apple, neroli, and rose remind me of a body wash I used during summer camp. What an interesting combination.
• Wet: The rose and apple mingle beautifully on the skin, flanked by a soft, dark powdered chocolate note, rich and nutty.  Hints of teak, neroli, and patchouli swirl in as the scent warms on my skin, soon rivaling the intensity of the chocolate.  I was worried that this would be too sweetly gourmand when applied, but it’s a surprising balanced scent so far.
• Dry:  I’m getting dusky powdered chocolate, infused with musk, a hint of bergamot, and a sliver of rose 10 hours later.  I’m pleasantly pleased with its staying power.

Other Impressions: None.

Day 1148 – BPAL’s Lenus Mars

Tags

Ambergris, BPAL, chamomile, In Memoriam, limited edition, lupercalia, Lupercalia 2015, Lupercalia 2015: Ode to Mars, Musk, Ode to Mars, Roman chamomile, white musk

Since Lupercalia scents just dropped on Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab, I thought I’d go through my older, un-reviewed Lupercalia scents while I wait for my new order to arrive.

Scent Name: Lenus Mars

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – In Memoriam: Lupercalia 2015: Ode to Mars

Scent Description and Notes: “Mars the Healer

Roman chamomile, white musk, and ambergris.” –bpal.org

Oil Color:  Colorless.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard imp from Absinthetics.  It features the name of the scent, the notes, and the decanting information on the back, and the image of the bottle on the front. The image of a decently muscular male posing in nude, his hands behind his lower back, thrusting forward his nether-regions.

• ITI: Soft yet forcefully quieting, the Roman chamomile dominates the scent while just a sliver of the sweet ambergris is allowed to beak from beneath chamomile’s folds.
• Wet: The chamomile has taken over, turning the scent on my skin to herbal lozenges. The white musk is sharp and attacks my nostrils – not pleasant, but I have hope that the ambergris will help settle all the hash herbal tones in the dry phase.
• Dry: As expected, the ambergris is this scent’s savior.  Now, it’s  a soft, almost floral amalgamation of ambergris and white musk (no longer sharp, but gentle and almost powdery).  There’s a touch of chamomile underneath, but not overly herbal or overpowering.  Much improved!

Other Impressions: None

Day 1018 – BPAL’s Prosperous Flowers of the Elegant Twelve Seasons

Tags

BPAL, honey, labdanum, Leather, limited edition, lupercalia, Lupercalia 2015, patchouli, saffron, Shunga, vanilla, wood vanilla

Scent Name: Prosperous Flowers of the Elegant Twelve Seasons

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Lupercalia 2015: Shunga

Scent Description and Notes: “Patchouli and honeyed saffron with labdanum, leather accord, and wood vanilla.” –  http://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/lupercalia-2015/prosperous-flowers-elegant-twelve-seasons/

Oil Color: I used all the oil before I looked, so no review of color for this one either.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz). This is a decant from Absinthetics.  On the back, she has the notes of the scent, the name of the scent in orange bold font, and her decanting information in green.  The font of the label features the same label art as the bottle, which is a shunga print of a woman engaged in coitus with a cat-masked man under the cover of kimono while another woman gazes down in surprise at them.

Scent: 

• ITI: Hmm, the scent is warmer, in a cozy cabin way, than I hand anticipated.  The spicy patchouli is softened by the vanilla, made rounder by the saffron.  The leather accord note is that of aged but well-tended brown leather, the likes of a grandparent’s beloved sofa.
• Wet: The leather is more pronounced once it hits my skin, but the combination of vanilla, saffron, honey, and patchouli is still gloriously warm and comforting.  I can detect the labdanum as well here, curling faintly between the leather and other notes, added depth and just a little intrigue.
• Dry:  Sweet, honeyed  saffron, delicious woodsy vanilla, and a touch of faint patchouli remain after 6 hours.  Oh, this is beautiful!

Other Impressions: None.

Day 1017 – BPAL’s Serving Tea After Coitus

Tags

Ambergris, ambergris accord, BPAL, green tea, limited edition, lupercalia, Lupercalia 2015, plum, Shunga, tea, vanilla, vanilla flower, white plum

Scent Name: Serving Tea After Coitus

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Lupercalia 2015: Shunga

Scent Description and Notes: “Green tea, heady honey, white plum, ambergris accord, and vanilla flower.” –  http://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/lupercalia-2015/serving-tea-coitus/ 

Oil Color: I’m honestly not sure where my bottle went, so no impression of oil color will be had until I buy a bottle of this.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz). This is a decant from Absinthetics.  On the back, she has the notes of the scent, the name of the scent in orange bold font, and her decanting information in green.  The font of the label features the same label art as the bottle, which is a shunga print of a man emerging from a shared bed to pour tea after coitus.

Scent: 

• ITI: Powdery, but pleasantly so like Lush’s Silky Underwear dusting powder.  There’s a slight soapiness to this from the plum, but the dusting of honey powder and green tea keep the scent well balanced and appealing.
• Wet: The green tea and white plum are a touch more evident when it touches my skin.  Strengthening as it dries, the vanilla flower and ambergris accord work together to create a faint lady-like musky perfume.
• Dry:  The Combination of vanilla and green tea take on a lotion tone as it tries.  It’s slightly sweetened with the soapy, clean plum.  I’m surprised I like this, honestly.  It’s pleasant, lady-like, and understated.

Other Impressions: None.

Day 1016 – BPAL’s Comparisons of Celebrated Beauties

Tags

almond, almond blossom, BPAL, champagne, limited edition, lupercalia, Lupercalia 2015, mimosa, orange juice, Shunga, vanilla, vanilla cream

Scent Name:  Comparisons of Celebrated Beauties

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Lupercalia 2015: Shunga

Scent Description and Notes: “Vanilla cream, mimosa, and almond blossom.”  –bpal.org

Oil Color: A goldenrod oil.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz). This is a decant from Absinthetics.  On the back, she has the notes of the scent, the name of the scent in orange bold font, and her decanting information in green.  The font of the label features the same label art as the bottle, which is a shunga print of three women in kimono gathered around a scroll and a mirror.

Scent: 

• ITI: I get vanilla cream, that smells almost like marzipan to me (a note I loathe) when paired with the almond blossom. The mimosa is there, but it isn’t as strong or as vibrant as I’d like.  It’s like the impression of a mimosa smothered in creamy pastries.
• Wet: I’m a bit disappointed, honestly. The scent is  sickly sweet initially, almost like children’s medicine. I think it might be the mimosa paired with the clear almond blossom and ooey, gooey vanilla.  I hope it mellows out.
• Dry:  The vanilla goo note and almond marzipan-tinged note are still present over the faint mimosa some 6 hours later.  Sadly, it’s just too cloying for my taste.

Other Impressions: None.

Day 1006 – BPAL’s Startled Toad

Tags

aged patchouli, Amber, BPAL, carnation, coconut, Frankincense, golden amber, lemongrass, lupercalia, Lupercalia 2015, patchouli, Shunga, vanilla

Scent Name:  Startled Toad

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Lupercalia 2015: Shunga

Scent Description and Notes: “Golden amber and coconut with frankincense, frothy vanilla, carnation, sweet aged patchouli, and lemongrass.“ –bpal.org

Oil Color: A Lovely tamarind color.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz). This is a decant from Absinthetics.  On the back, she has the notes of the scent, the name of the scent in orange bold font, and her decanting information in green.  The font of the label features the same label art as the bottle, which is a spotted toad looking rather bemused at the phallic serpent descending from the tree near the toad.

Scent: 

• ITI: Ooh, it’s perfume-y and floral, with a pleasant baby oil undertone and slightly spiciness of carnation swaddled in frankincense.
• Wet: It’s warm and sweet on my skin – the notes of coconut, amber, full but slightly waxy vanilla, faint frankincense, and a touch of delightful lemongrass waft up to greet my nose. Very pleasant.
  
• Dry:  Thankfully, the waxiness of the vanilla dissipates completely under the pointed carnation, spicy patchouli, and warm sandalwood. While it doesn’t have much throw it it, it is rather provocative.  I’m tempted to add this to my buy list. 

Other Impressions: None.