Day 1082 – BPAL’s Blood Bespattered Locks of Grey

Tags

Ambergris, anise, bay, bay leaf, BPSL, Cedar, grey oudh, Ides of March, Idus Martiae, khus, lemon, lemon peel, limited edition, mandarin, oudh, star anise, white cedar

Scent Name: Blood Bespattered Locks of Grey

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Idus Martiae

Scent Description and Notes: “Woe for the blood-bespattered locks of gray, alas for the rent robe, which you assumed, it seems, only that you might be slain in it!

– Cassius Dio

Ambergris and bay leaf, lemon peel and regal mandarin, white cedar and khus, grey oudh and star anise.” –https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/limited-edition/blood-bespattered-locks-of-gray/

Oil Color: Clear on my skin.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard BPAL brown apothecary bottle.  The label wrapped around the bottle features the name of the scent in bold, white letters set just above the name of the company, which is in smaller, bold white font. The label art is as featured:

Image from https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/idesMAIN-1.jpg

• ITB: Ah, delightfully soft, grey ambergris floats above the faintly beautiful mandarin and white cedar.  The star anise is surprisingly gentle as a bottom note.  I’m also picking up something faintly peppery underneath it all.
• Wet:  Yes!  The cedar and ambergris are delightfully grey and foreboding, like the think Humbolt fog that settles over the sound, obscuring everything under its spell. A touch of lemon – the light far off in the fog.
• Dry:  After 10 hours and a walk, there’s no scent left, so be prepared to reapply.  Upon second dry-down, the scent has become soft and sweet since the ambergris has mellowed with the emergence of the oudh while the cedar has vanished.  There’s a touch of sweetness from perhaps the mandarin, but it’s so ephemeral that I can’t really identify it save for adding sweetness to the scent. If you wnjoy ambergris or soft resins, you might consider giving this a try.  As for me, I’m happy I have a bottle!

Other Impressions: None.

Day 1064 – BPAL’s Mythological Scene, with a Warrior Addressing a Lady Outside a Classical Mansion, Two Maidens Riding Unicorns Behind

Tags

ambrette, ambrette musk, Art of the Unicorn, Art of the Unicorn Part 1, bergamot, bourbon, bourbon vanilla, BPAL, butter, Florentine orris butter, king mandarin, Leather, leather accord, limited edition, mandarin, Musk, orris, patchouli, red sandalwood, saffron, sandalwood, vanilla, white patchouli

Scent Name:  Mythological Scene, with a Warrior Addressing a Lady Outside a Classical Mansion, Two Maidens Riding Unicorns Behind

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Art of the Unicorn Part 1

Scent Description and Notes: “Florentine orris butter, red sandalwood, white patchouli, leather accord, and ambrette musk with a drifting eddy of King mandarin, wild bergamot, bourbon vanilla, and gold-limned saffron.”  –https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/limited-edition/mythological-scene-with-a-warrior-addressing-a-lady-outside-a-classical-mansion-two-maidens-riding-unicorns-behind/

Oil Color: A slightly apricot-tinged pale ale color.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz).  This is a sample from Mystery213.  The label features the name of the company and the name of the scent.  The bottle art is as follows:

Image by Susanna Duncombe fromhttps://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/limited-edition/mythological-scene-with-a-warrior-addressing-a-lady-outside-a-classical-mansion-two-maidens-riding-unicorns-behind/

• ITI: The first note reminds me a bit of mineral oil mixed with the almost insect-like quality of ambrette.  Soon thereafter fallow mandarin, saffron, sandalwood – altogether the scent seems to be more reminiscent of fruit cake than I had expected.
• Wet: The scent retains its vaguely insect-like quality.  I think the ambrette note really isn’t too fond of me, as most of the other notes play nice with my skin chemistry.  I do pick up orris butter and saffron with  a touch of bourbon and patchouli, but the other notes seem lost on my skin.
• Dry:  After 12 hours, the scent is just faint hint of bourbon vanilla and the memory of patchouli.  On reapplication, the mandarin and bergamot settle to become a scent more reminiscent of  tea with orris butter and sandalwood made overly sweet by the ambrette note. It’s a pass for me.

Other: “It’s like tobacco and maple syrup.” -Tony

Day 1038 – BPAL’s Gáttaþefur

Tags

Amber, apricot, baked bread, BPAL, bread, butter, C02, limited edition, mandarin, mandarin amber, yule, Yule 2015, Yule Lads

Scent Name: Gáttaþefur

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Yule Lads: Yule 2015

Scent Description and Notes: “Favorite pastime: sniffing doorways. Everyone needs a hobby! Baked bread, apricot, mandarin amber, and CO2 of butter.” -https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/the-yule-lads/gattathefur/

Oil Color: Colorless

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz). This is a decant from Absinthetics.  On the back, she has the notes of the scent, the name of the scent in bold orange font. Her decanting information is in green.  The font of the label features the same label art as the bottle, which is the name in light yellow, shadowed font.

Scent: 

• ITI: Thick pastries, laden with brown sugar, candied raisins and apricot come to mind.  It reminds me of a buttery fruit cake.
• Wet: There’s a bit more mandarin amber on my skin, but it still reminds me of a buttery pastry with candied fruits.
  
• Dry: Okay, I like this better once dried.  The apricot and mandarin are sweetened, as if by a light dusting of brown sugar that has started to caramelize on a rich, flaky pastry.  I’m almost tempted to get more, but I don’t know how often I’d want to smell like such a yummy pastry. 

Other Impressions: “Yeah, yeah.  Fruit cake and black pepper.” -Tony

Day 994 – BPAL’s Red-Spotted Purple

Tags

blue cedar, BPAL, Butterflies of Louisiana, carnation, Cedar, hinoki, hinoki wood, Lime, limited edition, mandarin, metamorphosis, Metamorphosis 2014, Metamorphosis: Butterflies of Louisiana, Musk, plum, plum rind, thyme, white carnation, white mandarin, white musk, white thyme, wood, yuzu

Scent Name: Red-Spotted Purple

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Metamorphosis 2014: Butterflies of Louisiana

Scent Description and Notes: “White thyme, yuzu fruit, hinoki wood, blue cedar, white carnation, plum rind, white mandarin, and lime-tinted white musk.“ -bpal.org

Oil Color: An energy drink yellow.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz). This is a decant from Absinthetics.  On the back, she has the notes of the scent, the name of the scent in orange bold font, and her decanting information in green.  The font of the label features the sample label art as the bottle.

Image from http://www.blackphoenixalchemylab.com

Scent: 

• ITI: Oh, this one is fabulous!  The yuzu is bright, sweet, and delightful paired with the plum and lime.  Oh my gosh, I’m starting to panic just a tad that I may have missed out on something incredibly special.
• Wet: The yuzu and mandarin are just incredibly succulent on my skin while the lime and plum provide a delightful fruity balance to the bright, sparkly, light citrus (lime reads as fuller and darker to me, something that is even a bit savory at times).  I”m also picking up wafts of spicy carnation and a blueish musk, although no cedar.  This is a stand-out scent so far.
• Dry:  A winner still!  Plum peel, mandarin, yuzu, carnation, a gossamer musk, and a faint white thyme.  I’m rather miffed that I did not  test this earlier as I would have bought a bottle.

Other Impressions: This scent received notice from two individuals, the one seated next to me who immediately asked if it was BPAL and demanded to smell it. He thought it was fantastic as it was light, complex, and unusual.  The second noticed from across the room and commented that it smells much better on skin than it does when I opened the imp.

Day 971 – BPAL’s Rapture

Tags

Arabian musk, ars amatoria, bergamot, BPAL, Egyptian myrrh, jasmine, love potions, mandarin, Moroccan rose, Musk, myrrh, neroli, night-blooming jasmine, Rose, Sumatran rose

Name:   Rapture

Manufacturer:  Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab –Ars Amatoria: Love Potions

Scent Description and Notes: “Sensual ecstasy, the blinding red fire of the apex of sexual pleasure: Moroccan rose, Sumatran rose, mandarin, Egyptian myrrh, night-blooming jasmine, bergamot and neroli thrust into Arabian musk.“ – bpal.org

Oil Color: An apricot color.

Bottle Design and Artwork:  This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz).  The label wrapped around the bottle features an Art-Deco inspired phoenix with the name of the company next to the phoenix. On the other side, the title of the scent written in large, clear black font outlined with red on the front.

Scent:

• ITI:  Strong neroli and jasmine with touches of bergamot – not bad, actually.  It certainly helps wake me up.
• Wet:  The mandarin and musk warm up on my skin, which pair really nicely with the neroil, jasmine, and bergamot.  Not bad.
• Dry:  The  mandarin and neroli diminish as it dries and jasmine takes its spot as the note to amp them all.  *Sigh*  In the swap pile you go.

Other Impressions:  None.

Day 945 – BPAL’s Ava

Tags

almond, BPAL, limited edition, mandarin, Musk, Only Lovers Left Alive, red mandarin, tuberose, vanilla, vanilla musk, white almond

Scent Name: Ava

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Only Lovers Left Alive

Scent Description and Notes: “It’s always a bit weird with family. A scant two-hundred years old, there doesn’t seem to be anything that roots Ava to her past. Her scent is utterly contemporary, and, like her personality, it is impulsive, capricious, and dangerous. Voluptuous and brittle, lovely and toxic:  sheer vanilla musk with tuberose, red mandarin, and the sweet poison of white almond.“ -http://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/product-category/only-lovers-left-alive/

Oil Color: A deeper strawberry blond color.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz). This is a decant from ralenth.  On the back, she has the notes of the scent, the side features her decanting information, and the front features the company acronym, the title of the scent, the collection, and the date, along with a scent-appropriate image.  The label art for the bottle is below:

Image from http://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/character-scents/ava/

Scent: 

• ITI:  The almond reads as anise to me, but when the vanilla and tuberose notes start to some through, the scent evolves into something deceivingly innocent and intriguing.
• Wet: In contrast to Kit, Ava is light, girly, and refreshing on my skin.  The mandarin, tuberose, and vanilla make it reminiscent to a certain extant of Victoria’s Secret’s Victoria scent, but this one is a bit more pleasant with the addition of the musk.  I can’t pick up the almond, however, on my skin.  I’m wondering if it will develop once I give it a chance to settle.
  
• Dry: It’s very pleasing once dried – a combination of almost marshmallow-esque vanilla musk and almonds against mandarins and tuberose is just delightfully sweet and girlishly agreeable.  I may need a bit more of this one.

Other Impressions: None.

Day 939 – Victoria’s Secret’s Noir Tease

Tags

Amber, apple, benzoin, benzoin laos, freesia, gardenia, jasmine, lychee, magnolia, mandarin, Musk, pea, pear, praline, red apple, red delicious apple, sandalwood, Sexy Little Things, sweet pea, vanilla, Victoria's Secret

Scent Name:  Noir Tease

Manufacturer:  Victoria’s Secret –  Sexy Little Thing

Scent Description and Notes: “Flirt. Play. Tease! Seductress meets coquette in this boudoir-inspired fragrance from our award-winning Sexy Little Things collection. The warm blend of black vanilla, frozen pear and blooming gardenia wraps you in modern glamour. Our signature atomizer makes this eau de parfum the ultimate in retro cool. Show it off!

• Fragrance type: Warm
• Top notes: Mandarin, lychee, frozen pear, red delicious apple
• Middle notes: Sweet pea, jasmine, gardenia, freesia, magnolia
• Dry-down notes: Benzoin laos, vanilla, musk, praline, amber, sandalwood.” -Victoria’s Secret website

Perfume Oil Color: Blush pink.

Bottle Design and Artwork:  This is a larger and squatter sample 2.66 ml/.09 fl oz vial with a  clear body and a black cap with matching spray nozzle. The bottle itself is clear glass with black font throughout.  The name of the scent is in large, stylized font while the type of perfume, amount, production information, and location are all in much smaller surrounds placed around the vial.

Image from https://www.victoriassecret.com/beauty/sexy-little-things/tease-eau-de-parfum-sexy-little-things?ProductID=4422&CatalogueType=OLS

Scent:

• ITV:  On first sniff, I’m met with a pleasant, soft, femininely sweet scent – it’s floral, but not overtly white or imposing due to the combination of magnolia, sweet pea, pear, and red apple over the gardenia and jasmine., yet there is also a foody muskiness to this from the praline, vanilla, musk, and amber that makes this scent a little more racey than one would normally wear to the office.
• Wet: Oh, that’s much sweeter on my skin.  The pear, apple, and praline aren’t nearly as balanced on my skin as it was on the testing strip. However, as it settles, I’m now getting a bit more lychee, mandarin, more powdery aspects of sandalwood, vanilla, and amber.  There’s almost a creme brulee sub-note here.  As a non-foody, I’m actually not put off by this entirely, which I think might be due to the juicy fruit notes and florals over top.
• Dry: It’s super faint, but it still largely retains the sense of warm, sensual fruits and florals with amber, mandarin, and gardenia still being faintly distinguishable.

Other Impressions:  “What’s that pink bottle you tried on in Bangkok? Versace’s “Bright Crystal”?  I can’t remember exactly what the bottle smelled like, but I immediately thought of that one when I smelled this.  It smells like flowery bubblegum.” -Tony

Day 938 – Oscar de la Renta’s Something Blue

Tags

Ambergris, ambrette, ambrette seed, bergamot, bourbon, bourbon vanilla, cashmere, cashmere wood, fleur de narcisse, Italian bergamot, lily, lily of the valley, linden, linden blossom, lychee, mandarin, Musk, neroli, Oscar de la Renta, stephanotis, vanilla, white musk, wood

Scent Name: Something Blue

Manufacturer: Oscar de la Renta

Scent Description and Notes: 

Discover Something Blue, a fragrance to cherish forever. Inspired by life’s most magical moments, this romantic fragrance opens with a sparkling burst of mandarin and linden blossom and warms to an irresistibly sultry finish with notes of bourbon vanilla and white musk. A removable ring engraved with the designer’s signature logo is a symbol of Mr. de la Renta’s abiding devotion to his beloved clientele. From this day forward.

Fragrance Notes:

• Top: Italian Bergamot, Mandarin, Neroli, Linden Blossom

• Heart: Stephanotis, Fleur de Narcisse, Lily of the Valley, Kiss of Lychee

• Base: Ambrette Seeds, White Musk, Ambergris, Cashmere Woods, Bourbon Vanilla.” -http://www.oscardelarenta.com/fragrance-and-beauty/shop-by-brand/something-blue/l0064100/something-blue-edp-spray-3-4-oz

Oil Color: Colorless.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is standard 1.5 ml clear glass vial with a  robin’s egg blue applicator cap. The vial has silver, lower-case, Italic font displaying the name of the designer.  The name of the scent is in small block font above it in the same filler color.  The only other marking is “004” on the vial.

Image from http://www.oscardelarenta.com/fragrance-and-beauty/shop-by-brand/something-blue/l0064100/something-blue-edp-spray-3-4-oz

Scent: 

• ITV:  “Something Blue” is a very light and clean scent with tones of green and citrus under white florals. It reminds me of a crisp garden party just after a fresh rain.
• Wet: The green here is a bit bitter, but it’s somewhat balanced by the narcissus, stephanotis, musk, linden blossoms, and cashmere wood.  However, I don’t get any of the warmth from the vanilla bourbon or ambergris that the notes normally provide, which would have been nice.
• Dry: I’m a bit disappointed as the scent fades to only a papery, slightly watery (lily of the valley) ghost of its former glory and only after two hours and a brisk walk.  I wish this had more staying power, but I’m not willing to shell out money for something that vanishes so quickly.

Other Impressions: None.

Day 926 – BPAL’s Sissy, The Ascendant

Tags

blue lilac, BPAL, chamomile, feathers, fig, king mandarin, Lilac, limited edition, mandarin, Musk, opoponax, Pretty Deadly, red musk, sassafras, smoke, vanilla, vanilla bean, vetiver

Scent Name: Sissy, The Ascendant

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Pretty Deadly

Scent Description and Notes: “Sassafras and smoke for black vulture feathers, and King mandarin and red musk for the deep red-orange of the vulture’s face. Blue lilac and chamomile / opoponax and vetiver for the blue and black of her eyes. Vanilla bean and fig represent her innate goodness and instinctive kindness.“ -blackphoenixalchemylab.com

Oil Color: The color of fresh motor oil.

Bottle Design and Artwork:   This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz). This is a decant a fellow bpal forumite who assisted me in procuring a few other Pretty Deadly scents.  The imp has a small label  with the name of the scent centered horizontally in large, stylized black font.  Below that is the name of the company, the date, and the collection information in thin, small block font. While the imp label does not have any graphics, the original bottle artwork is below:

Image from http://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/product-category/pretty-deadly/

Scent: 

• ITI:  It reminds me of Zebra bubblegum (the one that was tropical flavored but that died out threw chews in) plus blue sage and settled sassafras.  This evokes Route 66 for me for some reason.
• Wet:  The sassafras jumps out and screams for attention. I’m a bit surprised because I’ve never had it so strong before.  I can pick up a bit of the mandarin, some vetiver, and lilac, but for some reason, the combination reads as a little civit-like (and not in the awesome musky way) on my skin.
• Dry: Thankfully, the scent dries down into a more palatable combination of musk, vanilla, fig, vetiver, and dusty feathers with a touch of chamomile and opoponax on the horizon.  It just took three hours to get past the urine phase.

Other Impressions: None.

Day 904 – Catherine Malandrino’s Style de Paris

Tags

Amber, Catherine Malandrino, Citrus, gardenia, jasmine, mandarin, Musk, orange, orange blossom, pear, sweet jasmine

Scent Name:  Style de Paris Manufacturer:  Catherine Malandrino Scent Description and Notes: “Birchbox Breakdown: When we seek out a new perfume, we prefer to go with one that’s layered and complex like we are (if something is going to define us, then it better represent, right?). This scent from fashion designer Catherine Malandrino hits all the right notes with a playful yet sophisticated oriental fragrance mixed with fun fruits (think: Italian Mandarin, ruby red grapefruit, and Nashi pear). Like her renowned, sought-after designs, it’s the perfect blend of chic Parisian style and the infectious energy of New York City.

How it Works

This multifaceted perfume has citrus top notes that open up to aromas of lush orange blossom, sweet jasmine, and fresh gardenia. The fragrance rounds out with hints of amber and musk, leaving behind a lovely blend that captures a flirty but refined mood.”     -Birchbox.com

Perfume Oil Color:  Cannot tell through black plastic of vial.

Bottle Design and Artwork:  This is a standard 1.5ml sample vial.  The vial is a black plastic with marigold writing tat features the name of the designer and the type of perfume (eau de).

Image from http://www.birchbox.com/shop/catherine-malandrino-style-de-paris-fragrance-3-4oz

Scent:

• ITV: It strikes me as an older scent trying to be young through its use of bright fruits (I do think pear is one of them) long with gardenia and amber.  However, there’s a powdery quality to it that makes the scent skew older than it should, diminishing some of the bright airiness that would have made this scent appeal to a younger audience.
• Wet:  It’s more juicy fruits on my skin than powdery floral, which is nice Pear is sniffable once again, followed by orange blossom and gardenia with a touch of citrus and some musky amber.  There’s an odd note in there somewhere that reads like a cardboard box, so I’m not completely sold on the scent.
• Dry: Now that it’s had time to settle, I like the scent much better.  It’s less powder and cardboard and more fruity and  resinously sweet, like amber and caramel soaped pears infused with orange blossoms, a hint of musk, and gardenia.  It’s worth the dry-down.

Other Impressions: None.

Day 902 – BPAL’s Revisiting Scenes of Past Delight

Tags

apple, apple blossom, Bat's Day 2014, bergamot, BPAL, event exclusive, Florentine iris, iris, Italian mandarin, mandarin, melon, Musk, nutmeg, oakmoss, white melon, white musk

Scent Name: Revisiting Scenes of Past Delight

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Event Exclusive: Bats Day 2014

Scent Description and Notes: “The pure and luminous joy of dawning love: white melon, oakmoss, bergamot, apple blossom, Italian mandarin, Florentine iris, nutmeg, and white musk.” -http://www.blackphoenixgazette.com/announcing-the-bats-day-2014-exclusive-scents/

Oil Color: A refreshing lemonade color.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz). This is a decant from Absinthetics.  On the back, she has the notes of the scent, the name of the scent in orange bold font, and her decanting information in green.  The font of the label features a lovely painting of an overgrown temple.

Scent: 

• ITI: It’s sweet from the apple blossom, while being deliciously refreshing from the heavy melon note.
• Wet: I actually get happy when I apply the perfume.  It reminds me of something familiar that I can’t seem to place. It’s a lovely musky white melon flesh note with a touch of the fizz from mandarin and the subtle softness from apple blossom.
• Dry: It fades pretty quickly, but what is left is still pleasant and evocative, like a warm spring day amongst the flowering apple trees and beds of early flowers, but suffused with a sweet muskiness and a touch of spice from the melon, oakmoss, faint nutmeg and bergamot.  I really like this scent and I’m more than a little upset that I just picked up an imp of it. 

Other Impressions: None.

Day 876 – TokyoMilk’s Mandarin Honeyed Rose No. 107

Tags

honey, mandarin, Rose, TokyoMilk

Scent Name:   Mandarin Honeyed Rose No. 107

Manufacturer:  TokyoMilk by Margot Elena – Modern Love Collection

Scent Description and Notes: Pink grapefruit and orange blossom.

Perfume Oil Color:  Clear.

Bottle Design and Artwork:  This is a 0.16 oz Eau de Parfum Rollerball glass vial with a black twist cap.  The vial is a clear glass with black font in various sizes that feature the name of the collection, creator, and scent name.

Scent:

• ITV: I get a juicy citrus flesh with a very pink smelling, sweet rose. I don’t get much honey, though.
• Wet: it’s mandarin, the flesh and the rind – a gorgeous note, followed closely by a bright, young rose. Again, I’m not getting much honey other than the impression of “pleasantly sweet.”
• Dry: It’s a candied rose and citrus, reminding me of Pink Sugar with a bit more floral. Nice!

Other Impressions: None.

Day 869 – TokyoMilk’s Ripened Mango and Mandarin No. 111

Tags

mandarin, mango, TokyoMilk

ScentItformatting on the next few posts is going to be a little bit different. I just moved to a new house and there’s no internet so I’m having to update on my phone which doesn’t support the WordPress website as well.

Scent Name:   Ripened Mango and Mandarin No. 111

Manufacturer:  TokyoMilk by Margot Elena – Sun Kissed Collection

Scent Description and Notes: Mango and mandarin

Perfume Oil Color:  Clear.

Bottle Design and Artwork:  This is a 0.16 oz Eau de Parfum Rollerball glass vial with a black twist cap.  The vial is a clear glass with black font in various sizes that feature the name of the collection, creator, and scent name.

Scent:

• ITV: I get a sweet, sugary Mandarin a touch of rain and just a faint sweetness from the mango. It’s sweet and fruity- very much a summer time.
• Wet: It is a lightly ester-y scent on first asplication with the bitter citrus tones of mandarin rind and the delicouly acidic flavor if the mandarin flesh. The mango really is overpowered by the mandarin scent but it does have a slight sweetness to it that could be the mango peeking through. Thankfully, the alcohol based for this and is in very strong so you get the tones of the fruit immediately.
• Dry: I think I’ve gotten used to perfume wales. Even after 12 hours of expecting there to be something last but there’s absolutely no scent at all. After v reapplication and a few hours, it’s only lightly sweet and citrus-y, bit nothing b distinct enough to differentiate what they actually are without knowing the name or notes.

Other Impressions: None.

Day 863 – Coach’s Poppy Blossom

Tags

blonde wood, coach, freesia, gardenia, jasmine, jasmine sambac, lychee, mandarin, mara strawberry, muget, Musk, praline, Rose, Rose Centifolia, sambac, strawberry, tuberose, vanilla, wood

Scent Name:  Poppy Blossom

Manufacturer:  Coach

Scent Description and Notes: “COACH Poppy Blossom, an irresistible scent that embraces the many colorful characteristics of the COACH Poppy woman. 

This sparkling, fruity floral fragrance blooms by combining the vivacious energy of COACH Poppy and the floral femininity of COACH Poppy Flower for a fun and playful scent that celebrates the many colorful facets of the COACH Poppy woman. 

The wearer is whimsical, modern, and subtly sophisticated. Her exhilarating personality lights up the room like a ray of sunshine. 

Notes:
Lychee, Mara Strawberry, Freesia, Mandarin, Muguet, Rose Centifolia, Tuberose Fleur, Jasmine Sambac, Gardenia, Praline, Vanilla, Blonde Woods, Musk. 
Style:
Feminine. Sophisticated. Modern.”                          -Sephora.com

Perfume Oil Color:  Clear.

Bottle Design and Artwork:  I’m including pictures both of the standard bottle and the roller ball set, which is what I have. The set itself has this and Poppy Blossom on it, the blossom end decorated with flowers shapes in a coral, while the Poppy end features the Coach writing in pink.  Both are connected by a light gold connector that has the names of each scent printed at either end in small orange font.

Rollerball from Sephora.com

Image from Sephora.com

Scent:

• ITB:   IT’s sweet without being retreating – much more assertive than Poppy itself.  Part of that is, of course, the jasmine sambac and freesia.  However, those two notes are held at bay by the praline (which is impressively distinct), vanilla, lychee, strawberry, and rose.
• Wet:  Immediately, I get a lovely shot of mandarin set against a complex and musky jasmine sambac The vanilla softens the sharp mandarin while the tuberose, gardenia, rose, freesia and lychee shiny brightly and clearly as feminine and sophisticated.
• Dry:  After several hours, the scent is much softer than I had anticipated.  Instead of a slightly bitter mandarin note, it’s now a soft, creamy mandarin fluff paired with lychee, musk, vanilla, and an alluring jasmine sambac.

Other Impressions:

Day 862 – Coach’s Poppy

Tags

Cedar, cedarwood, coach, creme brulee, creme brulee accord, cucumber, cucumber flower petals, freesia, gardenia, jasmine, mandarin, marshmallow, pink water lily, Rose, rose petals, sandalwood, vanilla, water lily, wood

Scent Name:  Poppy

Manufacturer:  Coach

Scent Description and Notes: “A youthful and spirited fragrance, the initial spray of this fruity-floral scent delights with bright cucumber flower petals, juicy mandarin, and the sparkling freshness of bright baby freesia buds. In the heart notes, a lush bouquet comes forward, including petally jasmine, pink water lily, Southern gardenia, and the petals of red candied rose. A sweet depth wraps around these floral notes with a rich accord of crème brûlée. In the base, sensual and woody undertones create a lasting impression with notes of cedarwood, bleached sandalwood, lush vanilla, and whipped marshmallow. 

Notes:
Cucumber Flower Petals, Mandarin, Baby Freesia Buds, Jasmine, Pink Water Lily, Southern Gardenia, Rose Petals, Crème Brûlée Accord, Cedarwood, Bleached Sandalwood, Vanilla, Whipped Marshmallow. 
Style:
Flirty. Fashionable. Fun.”                          -Sephora.com

Perfume Oil Color:  A slightly pink tint.

Bottle Design and Artwork:  I’m including pictures both of the standard bottle and the roller ball set, which is what I have. The set itself has this and Poppy Blossom on it, the blossom end decorated with flowers shapes in a coral, while the Poppy end features the Coach writing in pink.  Both are connected by a light gold connector that has the names of each scent printed at either end in small orange font.

Rollerball from Sephora.com

Image from Sephora.com

Scent:

• ITB:   My first impression of  this is that Poppy is sweet, lively, and fresh.  When I concentrate, I can discern the water lily, sweet pink rose petals, bright and innocent gardenia followed by cucumber flowers and freesia.  I’m not picking up on vanilla or any of the woods, but it’s a lovely, sweet floral even without it.
• Wet:  It’s a might more acetone-y than I hand anticipated, but it’s not bad with the freesia, lily, sandalwood, water lily, mandarin and fresh cucumber.
• Dry: The softer, creamier notes come out as it dries down, morphing the scent into a beautiful combination of soft floral (the gardenia is bright while the rose is a soft petal pink note), creamy vanilla and marshmallow, indolent sandalwood, with the clean, almost watery note of cucumber flower petals and water lily.  I know that a couple of my students wear this and I don’t feel out of place as someone in my 30s wearing it as well.  I think it would work well for a wide band of ages.

Other Impressions: “Verbena and bubble gum.” -Tony

Day 861 – Fresh’s Memoirs of a Geisha

Tags

bergamot, Fresh, fruit, iris, jasmine, langsat, langsat fruit, mandarin, Musk, peach, Rose, sandalwood, white peach

I’m going to go back to designer scents for a little bit, especially since it will help clear off my desk.  For this particular scent, I received it as a gift years ago.  I remember absolutely adoring it, especially because it was unlike anything I had every smelled before, and thus my love of exotic, complex notes was born.  The bottle I’m testing today is the same bottle I received all those years ago, now with just enough for one last test left.

Scent Name:  Memoirs of a Geisha

Manufacturer:  Fresh

Scent Description and Notes: “Memoirs of a Geisha is a limited edition perfume from 2005. It contains notes of jasmine, rose, sparkling langsat fruit, white peach, bergamot, mandarin, iris, musk and sandalwood. Available as 75 ml EDP.”     -http://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Fresh/Memoirs-of-a-Geisha-9838.html 

Perfume Oil Color:  Clear.

Bottle Design and Artwork:  The is a small bottle with an oval rouge-colored label featuring the company name in white at the top, the name of the scent in smaller black block font below that, the phrase in lower-case italics “inspired by the film” underneath, and the type of scent designation in slightly larger, normal lower-case font just above the image.  The image is over sakura on a branch with a bird perched on the end.  The bottom of the label as the company name in black and the storage temp.  The side has the bottle size, which is 1.5ml.

Image from fragrantica.

Scent:

• ITB: The langsat fruit with the jasmine and iris is interesting, especially under the musk.
• Wet:  What I like about this most is that it does seem to have a sparkling or effervescent quality to it, and when muddled with the fruit (ripe peach and langsat), the musky resin, and the rose/iris, the scent turns into something I consider classic, fresh, and pleasing.
• Dry:  It’s gentle peach, langsat fruit, and just a touch of soft musk.  It’s pretty without being too girly or fruity.

Other Impressions: This was a scent of which I absolutely had to have more.  I searched high and low until I realized that it was specifically designed for the Memoirs of a Geisha set.  Fortunately, I recently found a very large bottle, which I’m rationing out in between testing other perfumes.

Day 860 – BPAL’s Kuang Shi

Tags

BPAL, diabolus, discontinued, mandarin, mandarin orange, mango, Musk, orange, sandalwood, white musk, white sandalwood

Scent Name: Kuang Shi

Manufacturer:  Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Diabolus, Discontinued 3/18/14

Scent Description and Notes: “TBust out the dzang dzi! This scent honors the zombies of Chinese lore. Mandarin orange, white musk, mango, and white sandalwood.“ – BPAL

Oil Color: – (Cannot tell in brown apothecary bottles)

Bottle Design and Artwork:  This is a standard 5ml brown apothecary bottle.  The label extends just under halfway around the bottom.  The label features the name of the company along with the phrase “hand blended perfume oil” framing the BPAL symbol along the bottom.  The name of the scent takes up the largest portion of the label in tall block fond.  All of this is set against a parchment colored background and framed by an ornate iron-work border.

Scent:

• ITB:  This really is an absolutely gorgeous scent, even on first sniff, it’s like a less creamy creamsicle with tones of mango and gentle sandalwood underneath.
• Wet:  It’s still really lovely.  The mandarin is a bit more distinct, but the mango paired with the musk and sandalwood is still warm, creamy, and just delicious.  Yum!
• Dry:  It’s a soft candied mango and light, billowy sandalwood and musk with faintly more citrus mandarin under it all.  This is an absolutely lovely blend and I’m sad to get to know if after it was discontinued.

Other Impressions:  “Mandarin rind and banana Laffy Taffy.” -Tony

Day 836 – BPAL’s Unmasking the Sambaso Dancer

Tags

Amber, amber musk, BPAL, king mandarin, labdanum, limited edition, Lupercalia 2014, Lupercalia 2014: Novel Ideas for Secret Amusements VII, mandarin, Moroccan rose absolute, Musk, Novel Ideas for Secret Amusements, Novel Ideas for Secret Amusements VII, passion fruit, passionfruit, Rose, rose absolute

Scent Name:  Unmasking the Sambaso Dancer

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Lupercalia 2014: Novel Ideas for Secret Amusements VII

Scent Description and Notes: “King mandarin, passionfruit, Moroccan rose absolute, labdanum, and amber musk.“ -BPAL

Oil Color: A copper penny color.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz). This is a decant from Absinthetics.  On the back, she has the notes of the scent, the title of the scent in orange, the company acronym in bold, and her decanting information in green. The front of the label has the same image that appeared on the bottle’s label, which is a shunga print of a woman mid-coitus with a man, whom she has just unmasked.

Scent: 

• ITI:  It’s slightly fruity with a soothing undertone from the rose absolute and amber musk.  So far, so good.
• Wet: Ah, there’s the passionfruit displayed more clearly against a warm bed of amber musk, flanked by mandarin and a whiff of rose underneath.  It’s a bit of a darker, more sophisticated scent than yesterday’s, but still pleasant. 
• Dry: After a long walk and several hours, the scent is incredibly faint.  I am only getting the amber musk with a touch of passionfruit, but nothing I could say was definitively that without knowing the notes.

Other Impressions: None.

Day 833 – BPAL’s Treasure Ship Coming In

Tags

BPAL, green mint, green tea, green tea leaf, king mandarin, limited edition, Lupercalia 2014, Lupercalia 2014: Novel Ideas for Secret Amusements VII, mandarin, Mint, Musk, Novel Ideas for Secret Amusements, Novel Ideas for Secret Amusements VII, tea, white musk

Scent Name:  Treasure Ship Coming In

Manufacturer: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Lupercalia 2014: Novel Ideas for Secret Amusements VII

Scent Description and Notes: “King mandarin, green mint, green tea leaf, and white musk.“ -BPAL

Oil Color: A crystal light yellow -as it aged but still brilliantly clear. 

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz). This is a decant from Absinthetics.  On the back, she has the notes of the scent, the title of the scent in orange, the company acronym in bold, and her decanting information in green. The front of the label has the same image that appeared on the bottle’s label, which is a shunga print of a couple pleasuring on another and a split image of a geisha changing and a ninja looking on from outside.

Scent: 

• ITI:  Oh, it’s bright, slightly citrus-y, but tempered well by the mint and the tea.  It reminds me of the chocolate mint star mints but without the chocolate.
• Wet: Deliciously juicy and slightly bitter mandarin weaves itself around the mint and tea, forming a delightfully bright scent that is as invigorating as it is uplifting.  The musk serves as a nice base note, supporting the other scents while not being overtly obvious.
• Dry:  After a shower, the still lingers, smelling of tea, musk, and the impression of a mandarin eaten several hours ago.  It’s nice in any iteration. 

Other Impressions: None.

Day 819- BPAL’s 51

Tags

air, Amber, BPAL, desert scrub, dry, freesia, green mandarin, green musk, Groom Lake salt flats, guava, honeydew, mandarin, neroli, salt, wanderlust, white amber, white musk, wood

Scent Name: 51

Manufacturer:  Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – Wanderlust

Scent Description and Notes: “Luminescent, glowing, and otherworldly: green mandarin, neroli, honeydew, white amber, guava, freesia, white and green musks hovering over desert scrub, smashed wood, and the dry, biting scent of night air over the Groom Lake salt flats.“ – BPAL

Oil Color:  A greenish yellow oil.

Bottle Design and Artwork:  This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz).  The label wrapped around the bottle features an Art-Deco inspired phoenix with the name of the company next to the phoenix. On the other side, the title of the scent written in large, clear black font outlined with red on the front.

Scent:

• ITI:  It’s light, slightly perfumey.  I definitely get “air” from this but also freesia, musk, salt, and mandarin.
• Wet:  It’s slightly floral, musky, salty, with subtle hints of honeydew and really faint freesia.  It’s certainly interesting, but I’m not sold yet.
• Dry:  This is another short-lived scent.  Even after an hour, it’s already noticeably dissipated, to the  point of having barely any throw.  However, what I do get is a combination of musk, scrub, salt, and either guava or mandarin.  It’s nice, but I wish it lasted longer on me.

Other Impressions: None.