Day 3197 – Osmofolia’s Deeper Than Reason

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Scent Name:  Deeper Than Reason

Manufacturer:  Osmofolia – Verse Collection

Scent Description and Notes: “Powdery violets, lifted by lychee and cardamom, blended into a base of rose, vanilla, and patchouli, with a vintage perfume accord. Inspired by e.e. cummings’ poem “yes is a pleasant country”. [Vegan.]


Top/Wet: lychee ✦ cardamom
Mid/Heart: violets ✦ rose
Base/Drydown: vanilla ✦ patchouli ✦ vintage perfume
-https://ajevie.com/products/osmospring

Oil Color:  Colorless.

Bottle Design and Artwork:  This is a 1/32 imp decant from Ajevie. The label features the decanting company name across the font in large burgundy and purple font. The back of the label has the company name and scent notes in small black font, while the name of the scent is above that in larger stylized black font. I was not able to find image art. 

Scent:

  • ITI:  Hmm, this is light and wistful in the thin, almost violet, lychee, and rosewatery tones that open the scent before a vintage powdered aspect develops alongside the barest whisper of cardamom.  Interesting.  I like it, but I hope the lychee is stronger on my skin.
  • Wet:  Pale violets fringed with a thread of lychee atop a soft, dreamy, powdered mallow-like vanilla. It’s certainly pretty in a quiet, sweetly floral vintage perfume kind-of-way.
  • Dry:  After 5 hours, there’s only a pale violet hue left on my skin.  I wish this had better longevity, but it is a nice, subdued, gentle floral perfume with limited sillage.

Other Impressions:  [Wet] “Well, it is faint. It’s definitely a little menthol-y with a back end of flowery cream.” -Tony

Day 3196 – Osmofolia’s Alba

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Scent Name:  Alba

Manufacturer:  Osmofolia – Chroma Collection

Scent Description and Notes: “A synesthesia perfume inspired by a color. Pearl white with flecks of shining gold: vanilla, linden blossom, clean cotton, white musk, spicy patchouli, and white amber. [Vegan.]


Top/Wet: linden blossom
Mid/Heart: white musk ✦ vanilla ✦ clean cotton
Base/Drydown: white amber ✦ spicy patchouli
-https://osmofolia.com/products/perfume-oil-alba

Oil Color: The color of a delicate, young white wine.

Bottle Design and Artwork:  This is a 1/32 imp decant from Ajevie. The label features the decanting company name across the font in large burgundy and purple font. The back of the label has the company name and scent notes in small black font, while the name of the scent is above that in larger stylized black font.  I was not able to find label art.

Osmofolia

Image from https://ajevie.com/products/osmospringScent:

  • ITI:  You know, many companies attempt clean, but this one is exquisite out of the vial.  It’s the pale white, comfortable clean of freshly laundered cotton sheets dried in the sun near a patch of delicately citric linden blossoms.  The cotton tones have the gentlest carness of ghostly patchouli musk.
  • Wet:  On my skin, the scent shifts to be a touch more musky and amber powdered, but it is still cleanly sun-dried cotton sheets next to linden blossoms and a breath of sweet vanilla.  Very pretty!
  • Dry:  After an hour, it’s still clean sheets, but more pale amber powdered and floral musky white with a subtle after-exhalation of slightly spiced patchouli. The vanilla blooms  alongside the clean floral laundry tones, ever so lightly powdered, at the 5 hour mark. I’m normally not one for clean-type scents, but this one is quite nice.

Other Impressions:  [Wet] “Mmm!  It smells like cashews, cream, and creek-side ferns.  That moist scent, not the dry ones we have outside.  It can skew a little unisex.  I like it.” -Tony

Day 3195 – BPAL’s Fancy Pups

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Scent Name:  Fancy Pups

Manufacturer:  Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – 

Scent Description and Notes:  “

I am his Highness’ dog at Kew,

Pray tell me sir, whose dog are you?

― Alexander Pope

A genteel affair that presses against the constraints of common decency: tumescent black silk, pink sugared patent leather, rich tobacco leaf, sunrise papaya, and mango cream with crystalline trickles of clean pup sweat.

Illustration by Maximiliano Pino

Instagram: @jugodepapaya.” -https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/lupercalia-2024/fancy-pups-perfume-oil/

Oil Color:  The color of a newly minted penny.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz) that has been decanted from Ajevie. The label features the year and the scent name in stylized large black font with the perfume company name in a more normal and smaller black font underneath it. The back of the label has the scent notes in small black font, while the spine of the label features the name of the company and year in burgundy and red font.

Scent: 

  • ITI:  It smells like expensive unisex fresh perfume with lightly sugared tobacco leaf, a whisper of leather and a spiced silk. The spice itself smells like cardamom and faint anise, but I’m not sure if that’s just from the silk itself.  I’m not getting much in terms of fruit tones, though.
  • Wet:   Thankfully the fruit tones emerge  upon application with chilled mango and papaya nestled against sugar-kissed leather threaded with airy silk, and a whisper of tobacco leaf.  The phrase ‘Debutante Daddy’ is circling my mind whenever I sniff this. 
  • Dry:  After 9 hours, a faded, powdered, crystalline mango sugared cream lightly laps up against silk that caresses tobacco-kissed skin musk and a glimpse of leather far in the background.  Light and seductive. 

Other Impressions:  [Wet] “GetaGuru orange clove soap with a touch of cinnamon.” -Tony

Day 3194 – BPAL’s The Serpent in the Carnations

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Scent Name:  The Serpent in the Carnations

Manufacturer:  Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – 

Scent Description and Notes:  “Snake Oil-soaked carnation petals, spiked with a dash of clove and allspice.” -https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/lupercalia-2024/the-serpent-in-the-carnations-perfume-oil/

Snake Oil: A blend of exotic Indonesian oils sugared with vanilla.

Oil Color:  The color of a bronzed butterscotch candy.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz) that has been decanted from Ajevie. The label features the year and the scent name in stylized large black font with the perfume company name in a more normal and smaller black font underneath it. The back of the label has the scent notes in small black font, while the spine of the label features the name of the company and year in burgundy and red font.

Scent: 

  • ITI:  Gorgeous carnation emerges first, slightly dew-tipped, but frilly and spiced, before a sensuous wave of Indonesian spiced oils move forward.  There is something about this that reminds me of a shampoo I used to use back when I was a young, but I don’t mind that.
  • Wet:   Spicy carnations laden with thick Indonesian spiced oils and a touch of black vanilla. I’m still getting that tone that reminded me of shampoo, but it’s a bit heavier here.  
  • Dry:  After 8 hours, I noticed that it was mostly spicy carnations on my skin, with a subtle puff of  Snake Oil’s vanilla behind that.

Other Impressions:  [Wet] “Leather that fades into berries and something that’s like turpentine but more resinous. ” -Tony

Day 3193 – BPAL’s Rhubarb Custard Muffins

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Scent Name:  Rhubarb Custard Muffins

Manufacturer:  Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – 

Scent Description and Notes:  “This muffin bites back: tender chunks of tart rhubarb stalks spangled with oven-browned sugar crystals, nestled in a crown of golden cake generously marbled with jet-streams of warm custard.” -https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/lupercalia-2024/rhubarb-custard-muffins-perfume-oil/

Oil Color:  Colorless.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz) that has been decanted from Ajevie. The label features the year and the scent name in stylized large black font with the perfume company name in a more normal and smaller black font underneath it. The back of the label has the scent notes in small black font, while the spine of the label features the name of the company and year in burgundy and red font.

Scent: 

  • ITI:   Fresh from the mailer, I noticed the rich, buttery pastry tones with rhubarb and almost strawberry-esque filling, seemingly topped with a dollop of whipped cream.  It’s gourmand, but the rhubarb is compelling.
  • Wet:   Rhubarb jammy filling, sweet, slightly tart, seems like it has been macerated with thin strands of custard, with just a subtle whiff of brown sugared cake behind that.  To me, it’s mostly rhubarb, which I’m thrilled about.
  • Dry:  After 6 hours, the scent was mostly sweet rhubarb on the skin.  Tart, appealing, and pleasantly gourmand, this is a foody scent I can get behind.

Other Impressions:  [Wet] “Cranberry and cherry juice with brown sugar next to each other.” -Tony

Day 3192 – BPAL’s Heart Beet

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Scent Name:  Heart Beet

Manufacturer:  Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – 

Scent Description and Notes:  “

I bequeath myself to the dirt to grow from the grass I love,
If you want me again look for me under your boot-soles.

You will hardly know who I am or what I mean,
But I shall be good health to you nevertheless,
And filter and fibre your blood.

Failing to fetch me at first keep encouraged,
Missing me one place search another,
I stop somewhere waiting for you.

― Walt Whitman

Raw, wet beets, pulsating blood musk, and raw wild ginger. -https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/lupercalia-2024/heart-beet-perfume-oil/

Oil Color:  The color of whiskey.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a standard vial / imp size (1/32 oz) that has been decanted from Ajevie. The label features the year and the scent name in stylized large black font with the perfume company name in a more normal and smaller black font underneath it. The back of the label has the scent notes in small black font, while the spine of the label features the name of the company and year in burgundy and red font.

Scent: 

  • ITI:   Fresh from the mailer, the scent is really interesting.  I’m getting ginger that skews a touch toward the lemongrass side mixed with earthy, round, warmed beets. Now, I love the earthy smell of beets, so I’m not surprised that I like this.
  • Wet:   On the skin, this is mostly a heavily spiced, clean ginger (reads citric as well) over lightly earthy beets. I would have liked more earthiness from the beets, but it’s very much GINGER.
  • Dry:  After 7 hours, it’s still spicy ginger pastilles or ginger beer with slight green undertones and a very subtle sweetness from the beets at the end of the inhalation.  Alas. I really want a beet-heavy blend.

Other Impressions:  [Wet] “Tres Flores, Brut, and orange cleaner.” -Tony

Day 3191 – eNVie’s Vanille Saphir

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Scent Name:  Vanille Saphir

Manufacturer:  Nocturne Alchemy & eNVie Parfum – Limited Edition Eau de Parfum (Limited)

Scent Description and Notes: Tranquil vanilla undertone compliments and inspires the amber within saphir vibrating nectarous vanilla and decadent sweetness on the skin as the perfume breathes through the notes.

OLFACTORY NOTES

~Top Note:

 French Vanilla Bean, Vanilla Bourbon, Siam Benzoin

~~Heart Note:

Vanilla Absolute, Green Peppercorn, Vanilla infused Labdanum

~~~Base Note:

As the Ambre notes release subtle resin from Vanilla infused Myrrh and White Frankincense, the composition drifts through a narrow careen of Egyptian Amber and Musk, purified and aged in a vanilla oak barrel. Nuances of oak sift during the olfactory experience.

☥ ☥ ☥ ☥ Perfumer’s Notes:

Vanilla is a natural perfume component that sweetens and deepens the experience of our sense memory.  When vanilla notes are blended into saphir and aged with oak, this heightens the experience from the woods in the naturally created ambre and gives the perfume a body of delight on the skin to be worn again and again.” ~Emerson Hart, eNVie Perfumer Composer

https://envieparfum.com/products/envie-vanille-saphir

Oil Color:  The color of a mid-toned white wine.

Bottle Design and Artwork: This is a 1/32 imp decant from Ajevie. The label features the year and the company name across the font in large burgundy and purple font. The back of the label has the company name and scent notes in small black font, while the name of the scent is above that in larger stylized black font.  The bottle appears as follows:

Scent:

  • ITI:  Light, benzoin sweet vanilla with a beautiful, resinous airiness  over a sophisticated amber.  It makes me think of the most elevated buttercream frosting that one might expect from a designer bakery.
  • Wet:  There’s a really interesting layering effect happening with the sweet, vanillic tones.  The creamy, exotic vanilla tones undulate at the top, floating over a pepper and frankincense-spiced ambered benzoin (still vanillic, but deliciously balsamic).  This scent is a lush, sensual spa-like vanilla on the skin (like the honeymoon kind).
  • Dry:  After 8 hours, the scent has settled into a smooth ambered French vanilla, sophisticated and lightly labdanum-sweetened with flashes of peppercorn and oak underneath, rounding the scent and enhancing the complexities of the vanilla.

Other Impressions:  [Wet] “Frozen yogurt shop in Tampa, Florida.” -Tony

Day 3190 – NAVA’s Shahzadi

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Scent Name:  Shahzadi

Manufacturer:  Nocturne Alchemy – Spring Limited ’24: Alqitat Aljamila (beautiful cats) of Spring Collection

Scent Description and Notes:  “Grapefruit Peel, Rose Absolute, Amyris, Sweet Patchouli Leaves, Magnolia Incense Accord, Australian Sandalwood Absolute, Languid Amber (Ozymandias Amber Absolute), Italian Bergamot essence, Cedarwood essence, and Frankincense Tears with Ocean Mist Accord, and Driftwood Accord.-https://nocturnealchemy.com/collections/limited-collection/products/new-spring-limited-2024

Amyris is a flowering fragrant evergreen tree/shrub, the scent of which is supposed to be woody and warm like sandalwood.

Oil Color:  The color of a nice white wine.

Bottle Design and Artwork:  This is a 1/32 imp decant from KosmikFade. The front label features a heart and the decanting information in an ornate script above an acanthus leaf design and the decanting website address. The back of the label has the scent name and scent notes along with the perfume company’s name. The collection appears as follows:

Scent:

  • ITI:  Mmm, that’s lovely!  Gentle magnolia’s citrusy tones are enhanced with the citrus tones from bergamot, zesty, tart grapefruit, and amyris.  This is met with the salt spray of the ocean, cooled in the early morning mist, with a sliver of incense-infused driftwood on the horizon.  What a stunning aquatic!
  • Wet:   It’s much the same on my skin as in the imp with those beautiful magnolia tones, lightly greened, fringed with grapefruit, a whisper of rose, and bergamot. These are softened with touches of gauzy amber under the gorgeous ocean mist note, anchored with driftwood.  I do notice that the rose starts to move forward after just a minute, drowning out some of the aquatic hues.  I need to see how this settles.
  • Dry:  After 5 hours, I’m thrilled that the scent has shifted again to allow for that beautiful ocean tone to shine, dotted with greens, citrus, and driftwood alongside the pale magnolia drifting on the breeze.  There is the barest suggestion of something floral sweet at the very end of the inhalation.  It’s aquatic, clean, mysterious, and lovely.  This might be bottle-worthy.

Other Impressions:   [Wet] “Rose leaves.  It’s very green.” -Tony

Day 3189 – NAVA’s Casa Blanca Lily and Crystal Vanilla

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Scent Name:  Casa Blanca Lily & Crystal Vanilla

Manufacturer:  Nocturne Alchemy – Spring Limited ’24: Spring Floral Collection 2024

Scent Description and Notes: Casa Blanca Lily Accord, Gardenia essence, Plum Skin, Tuberose essence, Studio Limited Crystal Absolute, and Vanilla Bean Absolute.-https://nocturnealchemy.com/collections/limited-collection/products/new-spring-limited-2024

*Crystal (Studio Limited Originals) Harvested in Egypt with Egyptian Black Vanilla pods, flecks extracted and blended into a beautiful and smooth White Musk. 

Oil Color:  The color of springtime pollen.

Bottle Design and Artwork:  This is a 1/32 imp decant from KosmikFade. The front label features a heart and the decanting information in an ornate script above an acanthus leaf design and the decanting website address. The back of the label has the scent name and scent notes along with the perfume company’s name. The collection appears as follows:

Scent:

  • ITI:  Cool, lightly honeyed yet greenly fragrant lily is first out of the imp, unfurling sensuously and edged with gardenia against a subtle tuberose touched with vanilla.
  • Wet:   Crisp white floral tones from the lily and gardenia are quiet clear on the skin, delicate and touched with light green sprigs.  The vanilla is very delicate and crystalline behind it.  The combination is quiet an enjoyable floral perfume.
  • Dry:  After 8 hours, there’s not much more than just a vague, cool vanilla.  The zesty gardenia backed with black vanilla is more evident on the skin after an hour, just under the florid sweetness of lily and tuberose.  The black vanilla adds a vaguely smoked impression to the huskiness of the floral tones, but everything feels nicely balanced.

Other Impressions:   [Wet] “Florist bouquet. One of those pre-made ones. ” -Tony

Day 3188 – NAVA’s Waterlily Melon and Moonstone

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Scent Name:  Waterlily Melon & Moonstone

Manufacturer:  Nocturne Alchemy – Spring Limited ’24: Spring Floral Collection 2024

Scent Description and Notes:  “Waterlily Accord, Fresh Melon Accord, Cucumber Water, Studio Limited Originals Moonstone (Vanilla) Absolute, Bastet’s Amber Absolute, and Jasmine essence-https://nocturnealchemy.com/collections/limited-collection/products/new-spring-limited-2024

*Bastet Amber is a perfume created from Amber Resin transformed over time in the Studio into a beautiful enhancing Royal Amber oil experience, Amber Resin imported from Alexandria and lit from the truest essential oil of Rare and Exotic Guiacwood and Crystal Benzoin and Crystal Frankincense. 

Oil Color:  The color of springtime pollen.

Bottle Design and Artwork:  This is a 1/32 imp decant from KosmikFade. The front label features a heart and the decanting information in an ornate script above an acanthus leaf design and the decanting website address. The back of the label has the scent name and scent notes along with the perfume company’s name. The collection appears as follows:

Scent:

  • ITI:  The melon note emerges first, fresh and ever so slightly BubbleYum-like, toned with the crisp, fresh green of cucumbers.  There is a touch of resin that I’m detecting as well as something that makes me think of skin sweat (I have no idea where that is coming from).  I’ll have to see what this is like on the skin.
  • Wet:   On the skin, I do get melon, but it’s light and cool alongside green cucumbers. The vanilla is present under that, fluffy, round, and buoyant with just a whisper of benzoin’s sweetness at the back.
  • Dry:  I had to retest because the scent had faded totally when I checked after 8 hoursAfter an hours, the scent sits very close on the skin, but what is here is a delicate waterlily melon cradled in a gentle, muzzy vanilla. I would love a fabric softener in this scent.

Other Impressions:   [Wet] “It smells like if Fabuloso made a cleaning agent that smelled like an Everlasting Gobstopper.” -Tony

Day 3187 – NAVA’s Peaches and Cream Musk

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Scent Name:  Peaches & Cream Musk

Manufacturer:  Nocturne Alchemy – Spring Limited ’24: Special Spring Musks Collection 2024

Scent Description and Notes: Peach Skin, White Peach essence, Whipped Peach Cream Accord, Vanilla Bean, Apple Blossom Accord, Plum Skin, Banana Milk Accord, Bastet’s Amber Absolute*, Whipped Vanilla Crème, and Bastet’s Musk Absolute*.-https://nocturnealchemy.com/collections/limited-collection/products/new-spring-limited-2024

*Bastet Amber is a perfume created from Amber Resin transformed over time in the Studio into a beautiful enhancing Royal Amber oil experience, Amber Resin imported from Alexandria and lit from the truest essential oil of Rare and Exotic Guiacwood and Crystal Benzoin and Crystal Frankincense. 

*Bastet’s MuskTuberose, Mallow, Angelica, Musk Flower, and White Lily. 

Oil Color:  The color of a light Chablis.

Bottle Design and Artwork:  This is a 1/32 imp decant from KosmikFade. The front label features a heart and the decanting information in an ornate script above an acanthus leaf design and the decanting website address. The back of the label has the scent name and scent notes along with the perfume company’s name. The collection appears as follows:

Scent:

  • ITI:  Holy moly, this is the peachiest peachy peach, fresh, succulent, gentle, sweet, and lightly florid.  The addition of plum skin makes the peach read like the red part of the nectarine near the pit at the back. The whipped cream is very, very light and doesn’t detract from the absolutely phenomenal peach.
  • Wet:  Omg, the peach here is glorious!  Plump, ripe, fresh, and beautifully fragrant, the peach flesh and peach skin alongside the light, floral apple blossom with just a sliver of dark plum skin.  The vanillic creams are light, uplifting the fruity tones.  
  • Dry:  True pale peach fruits, plum and florid thanks to the touches of plum and apple blossom, with whispers of light, gauzy whipped vanilla cream in the back.  Lovely!

Other Impressions:   [Wet] “Bellini. It doesn’t smell overly sweet.  It still smells like a scent.  There’s just enough to stop it from being sickly sweet.  It’s nice.” -Tony

Day 3186 – NAVA’s Edward Duck

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Scent Name:  Edward Duck

Manufacturer:  Nocturne Alchemy – Spring Limited ’24: Edwardian Duck Collection

Scent Description and Notes: Sweet Lemon, Blueberry essence, Vanilla, Sandalwood, Labdanum, NA Ambre Attar (Attar of Amber by Nocturne Alchemy; Labdanum Gum, Amber of Sandalwood, Patchouli absolute, Tonka, Benzoin, Vanilla extract, Benzoin Balsam and Rock Rose resin, Amber-Musk Accord, and Skin Musk), and Vanilla Bean Fleck.-https://nocturnealchemy.com/collections/limited-collection/products/new-spring-limited-2024

Oil Color:  The color of melting honey.

Bottle Design and Artwork:  This is a 1/32 imp decant from KosmikFade. The front label features a heart and the decanting information in an ornate script above an acanthus leaf design and the decanting website address. The back of the label has the scent name and scent notes along with the perfume company’s name. The collection appears as follows:

Scent:

  • ITI:  Hmm, this smells like nutty pastries, but heavy on the butter.  I was hoping I’d be getting more blueberry, and while there is a fruity blueberry husk sprinkled with lemon zest, it is positively surrounded by that pastry note. I do get the faintest suggestion of rock rose at the very back of the inhalation, but it’s a mere inkling at that.
  • Wet:  Very gourmand on the skin with thick vanilla with almost caramelized brown sugar tones over bright lemon curd and blueberry muffins.  I’m not picking up too much in terms of balsam, but as a gourmand, it’s warm, bright, fun, and accessible. 
  • Dry:  5 hours, the scent has settled into a warm, muzzy brown sugar pastry with a touch of lemon curd over an almost dry grassy sandalwood and vanillic benzoin.  I wish the blueberry were more apparent.

Other Impressions:   [Wet] “Caramel marshmallows with some splintered lemongrass.” -Tony

Day 3185 – NAVA’s Encens Alkarz

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Scent Name:  Encenz Alkarz

Manufacturer:  Nocturne Alchemy – Spring Limited ’24: Encens Spring Collection 2024

Scent Description and Notes: Baked Green Apple Accord, Spices of Cinnamon and Nutmeg, Labdanum Absolute, Bastet’s Amber Absolute*, Incense Accord, Brown Sugar Accord, Vanilla Bean Absolute, and Butter Accord (vegan).-https://nocturnealchemy.com/collections/limited-collection/products/new-spring-limited-2024

*Bastet Amberis a perfume created from Amber Resin transformed over time in the Studio into a beautiful enhancing Royal Amber oil experience, Amber Resin imported from Alexandria and lit from the truest essential oil of Rare and Exotic Guiacwood and Crystal Benzoin and Crystal Frankincense. 

Oil Color:  The color of melting honey.

Bottle Design and Artwork:  This is a 1/32 imp decant from KosmikFade. The front label features a heart and the decanting information in an ornate script above an acanthus leaf design and the decanting website address. The back of the label has the scent name and scent notes along with the perfume company’s name. The collection appears as follows:

Scent:

  • ITI:  I certainly am getting green apple, but it reads more of an apple crisp green apple dusted with cinnamon sugar, nutmeg, and a touch of incense-infused butter (but very light).  The labdanum here is a tarry and very noticeable.  I wish there were a little less of it as it takes away from the apple notes.
  • Wet:  The spices on my skin read like spiced apple cider, but then the incense  blooms, dark, shadowy, and thick, obscuring some of the lighter, almost festive tones.  There’s a touch of a powdery tone at the very back, but the labdanum takes center stage, just above the green apple.
  • Dry:  Nutmeg and cinnamon butter mingle with brown sugar and slivers of incense-steeped roses.  The incense here is more woody than I would normally expect, like headshop woody stick incense.  It’s nice together, but I do wish the tartness of the green apple lasted longer on my skin.

Other Impressions:   [Wet] “It’s a lot of powder and flowers. They’re rosy flowers.” -Tony

Day 3184 – NAVA’s Eternal Nefertiti Shabah

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Scent Name:  Eternal Nefertiti Shabah

Manufacturer:  Nocturne Alchemy – Spring Limited ’24: Eternal Shabah Spring Collection 2024

Scent Description and Notes:  “An exceptional blend of Oudh woods, oils, and Resins: NA Oudh, Aged Agarwood, French Benjoin (Benzoin), Labdanum Resin, Indian Oudh, Smoked Oudh blended into aged Eternal Nefertiti; Damascena Rose, Black Rose extracted, Red Rose Attar, Rosewood, Indian Warda Taif (Rose from the Taif Valley), Egyptian Geranium, Bastet Amber* Absolute, Sandalwood, Lotus, Geranium, Ylang Ylang extract, Davana, Green Cardamom, Amber and White Amber.-https://nocturnealchemy.com/collections/limited-collection/products/new-spring-limited-2024

Oil Color:  Colorless.

Bottle Design and Artwork:  This is a 1/32 imp decant from KosmikFade. The front label features a heart and the decanting information in an ornate script above an acanthus leaf design and the decanting website address. The back of the label has the scent name and scent notes along with the perfume company’s name. The collection appears as follows:

Scent:

  • ITI:  Deep, throaty red and black roses cascade over thick, musky labdanum spiced with green cardamom and sweetly seductive benzoin.  I think I can discern the other florals as a bright, uplifting coolness at the back of the inhalation.
  • Wet:  The rose isn’t quite as prominent on the skin, instead sharing the stage with beautiful spiced tones of cardamom and perhaps even a cinnamon infused into richly melting tone of thick resins infused with fragrant agarwood smoke.  I like the woodiness here, but I wish the rose were still as strong on my skin as it was in the imp.  Still, it’s quite pretty.
  • Dry:  After 6 hours on the skin, the scent settles into a spiced labdanum rose atop a lightly ambred oudh base with a subtle breath of geranium at the back.  This is more of a gummy, resin-heavy rose scent with soft cardamom spice.  It’s nice, but I think I prefer my rose with deep patchouli.

Other Impressions:   [Wet] “Grape-scented jelly sandals.” -Tony

Day 3183 – Haus of Gloi’s Essence of the Forest

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Scent Name:  Essence of the Forest

Manufacturer:  Haus of Gloi – Surprise Spring

Scent Description and Notes: “(Inspired by Stardew Valley)

A mysterious green brew from the wizard’s tower! Ferns, moss, toadstools and a hint of caramel – all thrown together in a bubbling cauldron.  -https://www.hausofgloi.com/products/surprise-spring-eau-de-parfums

Oil Color:  The color of a very pale young white wine.

Bottle Design and Artwork:  This is a standard sample vial size with a clear cap and tester.  The label  features the name of the scent in large black font under a black flourish, set against a parchment background.  The bottom half of the label is black with a parchment-colored flourish at the bottom.  Above that are the phrases “Perfume Oil” and “5ml Vegan” in small parchment-colored font size. The bottle of the imp I received looks similar to below:

HausofGloiSpringSuprise

Scent:

  • ITI:  Oh, that’s way different than what I was anticipating  (lots of green with a little caramel).  Instead, I’m met with what reminds me of caramel popcorn balls, sugared, warm, and mushroom husky, threaded with bitter green ferns.
  • Wet:  It’s a bit more peppered on the skin for some reason, but it’s still caramel forward, but caramel rolled in mushroom soil and cool, lightly bitter fern hues.  Unusual, but I’m not sure if this is my jam.
  • Dry:  Nearing the 3 hour mark, the scent is more approachable with  a sweet, gently caramelized fustiness from the mushrooms alongside dark vegetal greens and a touch of something that smells like stone dust in the back.  It’s interesting, but not something I would reach for.

Other Impressions:  [Wet] “Petrichor and gulab jamun (cardamom and simple syrup).” -Tony

Day 3182 – Haus of Gloi’s Marshmallow Rose

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Scent Name:  Marshmallow Rose

Manufacturer:  Haus of Gloi – Summer Perfume Oils

Scent Description and Notes: “Homemade marshmallow and rosewater.  -https://www.hausofgloi.com/products/summer-perfume-oils-3

Oil Color:  The color of a pale white wine.

Bottle Design and Artwork:  This is a standard sample vial size with a clear cap and tester.  The label  features the name of the scent in large black font under a black flourish, set against a parchment background.  The bottom half of the label is black with a parchment-colored flourish at the bottom.  Above that are the phrases “Perfume Oil” and “5ml Vegan” in small parchment-colored font size. The bottle of the imp I received looks similar to below:

Scent:

  • ITI:   Ah, that’s soft and lovely.  The rosewater unfurls, lightly fruity and sweet, enrobed in powder sugar-dusted pillowy marshmallow.  This is the kind of mallow that is delicately handmade.  The two pair beautifully here.
  • Wet:   It’s much the same on the skin as in the vial.  It’s still plush, light mallow, powder sugar-dusted, infused with delicate pale pink rose tones.  It brings a smile to my face (but I do tend to like rose-forward scents).
  • Dry:  Powdery rose marshmallow lingers on the skin after 3 hours.  It’s very textured and quite pretty with some significant throw (about 4″).

Other Impressions:  [Wet] “It’s like Play-Doh, classroom modeling clay, and a dry dough.” -Tony

Day 3181 – Haus of Gloi’s Tamarind Soda

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Scent Name:  Tamarind Soda

Manufacturer:  Haus of Gloi – Summer: Soda Pop!

Scent Description and Notes: “Uniquely sweet and sour with a touch of brown sugar.”  -https://www.hausofgloi.com/products/copy-of-summer-perfume-oils

Oil Color:  The color of a pale white wine.

Bottle Design and Artwork:  This is a standard sample vial size with a clear cap and tester.  The label  features the name of the scent in large black font under a black flourish, set against a parchment background.  The bottom half of the label is black with a parchment-colored flourish at the bottom.  Above that are the phrases “Perfume Oil” and “5ml Vegan” in small parchment-colored font size.

Scent:

  • ITI:   I do indeed get brown sugar, but it’s gentle and warm underneath what I imagine would be a soda-fizzy pastille of vaguely cinnamon/mango-toned tamarind.  I’m not getting the sourness I associate with tamarind, though, which I was hoping for.
  • Wet:   I’m certainly getting more of a carbonated tamarind tone muted with soft brown sugar.  There is a touch of sour alongside the woody, fruity tones I detected earlier. Interesting, but quite approachable. 
  • Dry:   Hmm, this doesn’t have much longevity, at least on my skin.  After 3 hours, I’m getting the vaguest suggestions of tamarind and something slightly warm. It’s alright, but I wish the tamarind were stronger and more sour. 

Other Impressions:  [Wet] “It’s like a Christmas wreath with only 1/5 of the normal amount of pine.” -Tony

Day 3180 – Haus of Gloi’s Apricot and Fig

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Scent Name:  Apricot & Fig

Manufacturer:  Haus of Gloi – Summer Duos

Scent Description and Notes: “Juicy apricots blended into sweet fig jam.”  -https://www.hausofgloi.com/products/summer-duos-perfume-oils

Oil Color:  Colorless.

Bottle Design and Artwork:  This is a standard sample vial size with a clear cap and tester.  The label  features the name of the scent in large black font under a black flourish, set against a parchment background.  The bottom half of the label is black with a parchment-colored flourish at the bottom.  Above that are the phrases “Perfume Oil” and “5ml Vegan” in small parchment-colored font size.

Scent:

  • ITI:  Oh my god, that apricot is stunning!  My moth is literally watering.  It’s fresh, juicy, luscious, touched with floral fruitiness.  It reminds me of something I used to smell at the Body Shop.  As for the fig, I can’t smell anything from her.  It’s all about that apricot.
  • Wet:  Yeah, I’m smitten.  The apricot is just amazing on the skin, succulent and fragrant, with just a hint of brown sugared fig far beneath that (although not it is not super clear as fig, more like a brown, lightly sugary something).  Honestly, the apricot almost feels like it is mixed with the florid huskiness of peach.  It’s gorgeous!
  • Dry:   After an hour, the apricot is still true to form – bright, fresh, and ripe.  There’s still a smidgen of an earthy sweetness underneath, but it’s still mostly apricot and I am here for me.  

Other Impressions:  [Wet] “Peach gummies.” -Tony

Day 3179 – Haus of Gloi’s Lettuce and Tomato

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Scent Name:  Lettuce & Tomato

Manufacturer:  Haus of Gloi – Summer Duos

Scent Description and Notes: “Fresh from the garden! Crisp lettuce and aromatic tomato leaf”  -https://www.hausofgloi.com/products/summer-duos-perfume-oils

Oil Color:  Colorless.

Bottle Design and Artwork:  This is a standard sample vial size with a clear cap and tester.  The label  features the name of the scent in large black font under a black flourish, set against a parchment background.  The bottom half of the label is black with a parchment-colored flourish at the bottom.  Above that are the phrases “Perfume Oil” and “5ml Vegan” in small parchment-colored font size.

Summer Duos

Scent:

  • ITI:  This smells like garden springtime, lush, verdant, and absolutely green with crisp lettuce (fresh here) with grassy, musky tomato leaf trailing at the end of the inhalation.  I am noticing slightly bitter and soapy tones, so I’m not sure how that will translate on the skin.
  • Wet:  Humid, green, and watery on the skin.  It certainly is lettuce, but the more pale fruity tone throws me a little.  There is a subtle pinch of bitterness, but it isn’t unpleasant. However, the tomato leaf comes up behind it and adds that musky herbaceousness that I do enjoy.  
  • Dry:   After just over an After an hour, the bitterness is gone, leaving fresh lettuce brushed lightly with herbaceously sun-warmed tomato leaf.

Other Impressions:  [Wet] “It smells like grassy nectarines right now.” -Tony

Day 3178 – Haus of Gloi’s Yuzu Melon Soda

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Scent Name:  Yuzu Melon Soda

Manufacturer:  Haus of Gloi – Summer: Soda Pop!

Scent Description and Notes: “Green honeydew melon with yuzu citrus.”  -https://www.hausofgloi.com/products/copy-of-summer-perfume-oils

Oil Color:  Colorless.

Bottle Design and Artwork:  This is a standard sample vial size with a clear cap and tester.  The label  features the name of the scent in large black font under a black flourish, set against a parchment background.  The bottom half of the label is black with a parchment-colored flourish at the bottom.  Above that are the phrases “Perfume Oil” and “5ml Vegan” in small parchment-colored font size.

Scent:

  • ITI:  This one is very effervescent and fizzy, like getting a snoot-full of Yuzu Soleil upon first opening the can with that buoyant, upliftingly tart citric tone with the gentle, slightly florid muskiness of honeydew.  I like both of these smells/fruits individually, so I’m happy already.
  • Wet:  It’s less effervescent on the skin, but still fizzy and brightly citric with a very subtle undertone of honeydew.  It’s predominantly yuzu soda, which is still quite nice.
  • Dry:  After 8 hours, my skin had devoured the scent, so I had to retest it. Upon second dry-down and an hour and a half wait, there’s just a hint of cool pale-green yuzu soda, significantly faded, left on my skin.  I do wish the longevity were better. 

Other Impressions:  [Wet] “It smells like soapy carnations.” -Tony